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Thanks Alleyoop. Do I just hold the screwdriver tip with some long nose pliers and adjust the screw that way? I can't seem to reach the screw with a normal screwdriver because of the postition of the screw.

I don't know if the auto choke is working. I will do some research and see if I can find out if it is working.

Problem solved. Adjusted the valves yesterday. It will idle now at 1800-2000 rpm's and it also won't die when coming to a stop on the road. Thanks "bhinch" for steering me in the right direction. Know I need to bleed the brakes.

I am just learning how to work on my scooter and am finding it a lot of fun to do it yourself.
I have a MC-54-250B scooter that has sat with a cover on it for the last 6 months with a full tank of gas in it.
Recently I replaced the coolant, gear oil, and motor oil. I adjusted the idle so I don't have to manually hold the throttle at 2000 rpm's to warm it up, so now I start it and it fluctuates between 1800-1500 rpm's. I have the scoot on the center stands and haven't taken it out yet since changing the fluids. When it's warmed up and I rev the engine to 4000-5000 rpm's and let go of the throttle and let it slow down on it's own, it slows down to an idle of 1000 rpms or less and it sounds like it wants to die, and sometimes it does. When I rev the engine when it sounds like it's going to die, it will spring back to the idle that I set it for which is the 1800-1500 rpm's.
If I rev the engine to 4000-5000 rpm's, let go of the throttle and apply the brakes,(just like being on the road), the engine dies. I had this same problem last year before I covered it up. The idle screw was easy to find and get to. Any suggestion on finding the air/fuel mixture screw? I hope that is all that needs to be done. Do I need to remove any panels to get to this air/fuel mix screw? Or worse yet, do I have to remove the entire carburetor?