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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 25, 2011 9:19:56 GMT -6
Well I guess the bank sensor wasn't the problem I finally gave in and decided to do a valve adjustment. It was actually pretty easy, the funny part about it all is that when I was done and I was putting the cap to the cam shaft back on I tightend a bolt to hard and snapped it, oooo shoot. Well I was able to drill it out and wow a 1/4in bolt is not easy in the slightest to drill out. But after a little damage to the inside of the threads I was able to get it out and retap it and I was good to go., I then started it up and tested everything and WONDERFUL if worked. Bike runs better, doesn't stall when I come to a stop!! Yay for me.....EXCEPT (Crap) I have a new problem. I thought the problem would fix it self after doing all of this but it didn't. So this is what I found out. The bike still overheats and dies when it gets hot, probably vapor lock. I went for a 16 mile each way test run and crapola it over heated had to wait like 15 minutes for the bike to cool down before I could start it again. Thank God on the way back the clouds were out and it was about to rain so it kept the bike cool. So here is my new task, to change out the thermostat. I believe that is the reason for this because I already went and did a flush on it. I replaced the fluid. So I am going to take it out, and wait for a new one, one guy from the local shop told me to drill four holes in the thermostat to let some flow through it to keep it a little cooler till I get another one. Wow so many things to do. Thank you Alleyoop for your expertise and help with my problems. Your pictures and videos helped a bunch. I think I will be a scooter mechanic now and I will be a moderator soon enough lol. Thank you and any thoughts on overheating willl be appriciated if I need to start a new theard let me know.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 20, 2011 18:26:21 GMT -6
Ok so I just read something very very interesting and wanted to get your take on it. So one guy was having the same issues as me and said the reason was because of the scooters angle sensor, if you wreck on the bike or drop it or it goes out of wack beyond like 55 degrees then your scooter will always want to die, well it comes to mind that while I was fixing all of this and before the constant dying when stopping I accidently dropped the bike I was trying to put it on the center stand and the bike tipped over (very gently mind you so nothing broke) however if that is the case I wanna know how to put that bad boy back on center. So what are your thoughts on that.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 20, 2011 18:13:16 GMT -6
Yeah I think I am just gonna have to do the valve adjustment I saw some videos and I think I can do it. I know everyone said .004 and .005 but the video I saw they said .003 for intake and .005 for exhaust. Which one is the right one for my scooter how do I know for sure. Should I take the majority lol .004 for intake or what will the difference be.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 20, 2011 16:43:24 GMT -6
Thank you speed racer. I got a new carb and it had all the new stuff hoses and everything. Looks like it didn't fix the problem the bike still wants to die when coming down from a high rpms. Before I move to valve adjustment is there any other possible things I can try to fix the problem before the valve job. I really really don't want to do the valve adjustment because it seems so hard to get in there. But I want to exhaust all options first. So if anyone has anything at all that I could try first. Just to recap, I have a new spark plug, I have new fuel filter, fuel pump seems to work fine gas is coming out of the main line. Have new oil, have new gear oil, changed out radiator fluid (I know that has nothing to do with it but still) So if there is anything else anyone can tell me I would love to hear about it. Thank you.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 18, 2011 13:58:01 GMT -6
Also I have read some articles about rejetting not really sure what they are talking about but they said changing the size of the main jet because of my altitude I am in New Mexico about 5000ft+ above sea level. What are your thoughts.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 18, 2011 13:54:34 GMT -6
This is my carb...I want to exhaust all options before adjusting the valves. Since that is the hardest. Notice how I do not have the house in the above picture. I circled so you can see what I am talking about. What are your thoughts. Attachments:
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 18, 2011 13:47:38 GMT -6
I just noticed something here look at this picture of a carb that is similar to mine. I do not have the hose that is circled would that make a difference to idle or stalling. Attachments:
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 18, 2011 12:10:24 GMT -6
Thank you very much for that it was very helpful. I really don't think that is the problem, I honestly think everything is with that mixture screw. I took the carb out and the float bowl and took out the pilot jet and cleaned it out, I took the main jet and cleaned it out, and now I am just in the process of trying to get the right ratio because now with the that stuff cleaned out I can notice that the bike will start up and then when I rev it up it dies when I mess with the screw it dies even before revin it up. So I know the process of the mixture screw will help. I will post again later to see what results I got. I don't hear any knocking or rattle of the engine so I assume my valves are fine, someone told me if my scoot ran crappy and I could hear that, then you would need an adjustment, however the valve adjustment looks terribly complicated I mean to get to the valves looks hard. So if that is the case I will take it in somewhere to get it fixed!! Thanks for your help any other suggestions about the mixture screw would be greatly appriciated.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 18, 2011 8:08:11 GMT -6
Thank you for that it will be helpful. The local Chinese scooter repair shop told me that my bike would act really crappy if my valves needed to be adjusted. The bike runs fine except the stalling, so how hard is it to adjust the valves. Do I need special tools. Today is my day Off I'm gonna work on this all day.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 17, 2011 19:34:43 GMT -6
Cool I probably should have read this first before messing around with my carb lol I think I might have messed it up a little. I took that carb adjustment screw out and looked through the hole and nothing was blocking it so I know that is good. So in putting it back in I didn't remember where I initally took the screw out. I probably should have paid attention to that first. So I was wondering in a few posts earlier you showed me where the screw was and in it is said something like if you take it out follow the mixture screw adjustment if new one is installed which this one is not new but since I took it out I don't know how to set it right. I tried to mess with it but it wouldn't start and finally it did but it would die right away and when I took the carb out again white smoke came out don't know if that is good or bad or normal. So I turned it down a half turn and then it wouldn't start again. So if you could give me some kind of procedure on this, that would be most helpful and then I will do the throtlle thing you said. Do you think the throttle being tight like that would have any affect on the stalling when coming to stop problem cause that is my main problem now that is why I was messing with the mixture screw. Thanks again sorry for all of the questions but you are making my heart sing with your answers lol. Thank you so much....
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 17, 2011 17:29:26 GMT -6
I was looking at the throttle cable earlier trying to figure if something was wrong with that. So when I stick my finger down in near the cable and press on the cable it has some play in it before the throttle opens up. When I use the actual handle throttle it pulls when I pull, there is no play. I hope that answers your question. And yes the wheel spins like crazy and when the bikes begins to stall and I flip the handle throttle it stays where it is supposed to be and I can stop the wheel from turning with my foot and begins to spin slowly untill I actually pull the throttle and get it going again. What is the CVT AREA.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 17, 2011 16:55:30 GMT -6
Ok so when I start it right up the rpms go to about 3500 rpms that is with the idle screw all the way up then about 2 minutes later or sooner the rpms go down to about 2000 rpms. Then when I rev the engine up to about 5000 or 6000 rpms and then let go of the throtlle the rpms gradually come down to about 1500 rpms and most of the time will just die on me. The rear tire only stops spinning when I get to the 1500rpm area. What do you think of that? Do you think by messing with the carb screw that it will fix the problem? I have thought of everything else. There is gas, there is air, there is spark I have everything to start but something is not doing right to make the bike stay running it has to be the amount of air and gas that is the only other thing I can possibly think of. Tomorrow I will see what happens I will try and get underneath to that screw and turn it every which way and not to see what changes. Can you tell me which way to turn it, or which was to turn it does what clockwise to give it more gas, counter clockwise to give it less gas, or vice versa. I want this to be fixed already I am so close I can feel it. Thanks for your replies.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 17, 2011 12:56:18 GMT -6
Also do I need to remove the carb in order to mess with that screw or can it be accessed by taking all the panels off?
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 17, 2011 12:55:32 GMT -6
According to this I should mess with it lol...what do you think. I installed the new choke and now the bike starts and it usually didn't start at this hour. However it didn't make any change to the idle. The screw is still all the way up and it still wants to die when coming to a stop I just have to flip the throttle and it goes to normal well kinda normal when on the center stand it is idleing around 2500rpms. When it is down on the wheel it is like 1800rpms because of the tire not being able to turn freely. So what do you think I should do now. Should I shoot some more carb cleaner in the system. when I did it the first time I didn't remove the black umbrulla looking thing I think they called it the...wait I have no idea what they called it. Should I remove that and spray directly in there would that even help with the problem or is the problem somewhere else like with the screw thing you showed me above. let me know thanks a million.
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Post by dojomo007 on Aug 17, 2011 10:36:22 GMT -6
Cool thanks I don't think I need a new carb either but I have had some people tell me that I do but I would trust this website before I trust any of my "mechanic" friends lol. But what I need to know is that everyeone here keeps talking about this carb mix screw. I got this bike from another owner and I know that some of these things have been messed with and I bet that the screw has been messed with also which maybe a reason why the bike is acting up the way it is maybe it is running to lean. I don't know but if you could maybe take a picture of the screw or tell me a little bit more where it could be because I look up and down on that stupid carb and I can't find it. Unless I need to like look under it or soemthing. Thanks for you help. You guys are life savers. oh and my new choke comes in today the right one this time can't wait!!!
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