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Hello Folks,

I tested the auto-chock/enricher circuit in my 150cc and obtained the following:

1) Resistance of the enricher itself => 8 ohms
2) There is no voltage when the key is in the ON position, the voltage only starts to go to the enricher circuit when the engine is running and is measurable as DC voltage (thus it should come from the voltage regulator) and the voltage is around 5.6 Volts

Are the data above sound/correct?

Thanks,
tk3000

chyder, I, like you, only have good things to tell about bargaintory; they offered several options to take care of the issues with the bike: they offered to pick up the bike and send me a new one (well in spite of all the problems I grew attached to that bike, and besides I already registered, insured it, and have done lots of work on it), they also offered to pay for the repair in a local shop (I do all the repair myself, don't like shops), so they refund me some of money paid for the bike in order to pay for parts needed. All in all, I am very satisfied with bargaintory and would recommend them for anyone.

Jrryan interesting tool to hold variator in order to apply the proper torque.

So back to the bike issues, I have not been working on the bike lately. Zug, I have used a wrench strap in the past unsuccessfully but it was a cheap made one and it was on a stator's magneto; the ones you showed seems much better and heavy duty; so I got excited, went to Homedepot and bought the following:



But yesterday I tried using it; having some success with the clutch since it has more surface area for the tool to grip on, but not much success with the variator. At end of the end day I got the hang of using my old holding too with variator: the trick is to stabilize the tool and use the soil as a base and then from a 30 degrees angle rotates the tool clockwise more 20 degrees, and then repeat the same process until one obtains the proper torque. If I don't use such method (30 degree angle, turning clockwise in increments of 20 degrees) the bike would tip over or move (but if you have a friend who could seat on the bike...). Below is an image of the setup mentioned:



The pulley is not much of a problem since it turn is engaged in the rear wheel and would only turn in synchrony with the wheel which then can be locked with the bike's rear brake combined with the bike weight seating on its side stand. At the end of the day I was able to apply the proper torque to the clutch and variator. But it seems that I will order a new clutch to replace that one since it seems to be the weakest link responsible for the issues with speed.
Also measure the distances between the variator pulley faces with a micrometer; the distances seems to be constant ‑‑ around 39 mm – with a margin of error in the order a fraction of a mm


And finally some pics of the plumbing underneath the bike:


A spare radiator cap attached to the frame:


Spark plug also has been replaced for a ngk
Another issue I am having is backfiring (more like a sequence of loud coughs rather than a gun shot) during desacceleration. I sort of rooted the problem to some possible causes: carburetor lean condition (pilot circuit, cut-off valve), vacuum leak, muffler not properly sealed/insulated or missing gasket (I will check that out), or something else.

Hello Cruiser,

Sorry but I am not sure about what you mean by left side, and I don't see any slot where I could insert a large screwdriver to try to pry it open. I have tried using something similar to a screwdriver covered by a rag to avoid any scratch in the surface but I could not do it safely (without scratching the of walls whereon the belt is located). Would you insert the screwdriver between the polished surfaces where the belt is inserted?

thanks!
tk

Thanks for the insights about the belt and cvt issue, phil54 and kiwiscoo. I removed the variator and clutch with my almighty impact wrench and apparently it seems fine, but I will further investigate it tomorrow.

Another thing I found out was the source of slow down and noise on my front wheel, after having removed the front wheel mud cover, I found an electrical component locked inside the mudguard making contact with the tire; so whenever the tire was rotating it would hit such thing (would anyone know what such component is?):






Also the engine was vibrating and shaking unusually, after further investigation I found out that the main bolt in the engine mount was not properly torqued; torqued it and solved the annoying vibration and noise problem. That bike definitely is not plug-and-play...

Zug :

I took the CVT cover off some time ago, actually in my very first post there is a link to video where the cvt is showed in action. One thing I noticed is that the with CVT cover on the belt seems to hit the CVT cover, and with the CVT cover off there is not such hitting noise. Also at first the belt seems to be too big (I found out inscribed on the belt itself: 915 22 30) it seems too large for that type of engine (I am not sure if there are variations of the engine case and engine itself for the CF-Motor 250cc, as is the case with gy6?). At first 915 22 30 seems too large, wouldn't a 828.22.30 belt size be more appropriate for such engine? If it uses the same belt used on a gy6 150cc (vento clone) I could take the belt off my 150cc and install it in the 250cc to see what happens. Of course I am assuming that there are weights inside the Dr. Pulley,etc, and none of the mechanisms have collapsed or failed.

The feeling that I have when I try to accelerate above 25 mph is as if I was trying to accelerate an engine with the clutch pulled in (makes noise but goes nowhere faster)

Thanks!

Thanks! I saw your thread, very instructive and insightful!

Thanks, I will contact them about the belt issue. It really seems that the belt is hitting the CVT cover.