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Post by ruckingoodtime on Apr 18, 2015 23:36:32 GMT -6
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Clinician
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Apr 18, 2015 20:42:20 GMT -6
yep I found it, along with another fuse right beside it. i'm going to take a look when I go into work.
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Apr 18, 2015 19:48:02 GMT -6
battery is not that old, a couple months, and just took to autozone and they said it was good, and it charges up when I hook trickle charger to it, I've been having to do that every other day. Where would the R/R be located? The fuse also looks a little janky, so I'm going to replace the holder and the fuse as well.
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Apr 18, 2015 18:05:41 GMT -6
If the stator was bad, it wouldn't run with a dead battery would it? Like if I jumped it. 'Cause I can jump it and it'll run forever until I shut it off. the lights are dimmer at idle but everything works, as soon as I hit the gas they light up real bright. Also, like the 2nd day I had it, the scooter blew over in a wind storm, could this have damaged anything?
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Apr 18, 2015 16:14:12 GMT -6
would this be in the steering column? or behind the gauge cluster? I tested it at the battery, I'll try again later to see what it's putting out at higher revs.
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Apr 18, 2015 14:49:50 GMT -6
SO I just got this motomojo taz 150 scooter (QJ157QMJ) and I seem to be having an issue. The guy I bought it from said that he put a new battery in it, which seems really small and is only 50cca. But I'll charge the battery, and start and shut it off multiple times during the day, with the longest ride being 15-20 minutes at about 1/2-3/4 throttle (35-45mph) I can do this a few times for a couple days and then I'll have to put it on the charger. Earlier I started it and hooked up my voltmeter to see what it was at, and it say 11volts at about 1/4 throttle. I just read that I should be trying it at 3/4 throttle so I'll try that later. At idle it was about 10.2 and when I revved it up, it went to 11 volts. I had to jump it with my car the other day before I bought a charger and it ran the entire time without dying on me. I'm just trying to figure out what's going on, and what the first thing I should do is. I'd like to be able to ride without having to worry about charging it after I shut it off. I know it takes about 30-45mins of riding to replace the energy from starting it, so maybe there really isn't a problem because I never ride it that long. I've had scooters in the past but I've never had any issues and I've never had to charge them like I am now. Thanks in advance and sorry for the noob questions. I've been googling and I'm just kind of stuck.
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Aug 1, 2012 1:33:06 GMT -6
With my power max, I have a long spacer that goes on the back of the swing arm that attaches directly to the wheel, and then I have a short one that goes in the front right behind the nut. that'sexactly how mine is. I think that the plastics are just off center or something and that's why it looks off. If you look at the wheel and both shocks is the left shock closer to the wheel than the right one? |
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Aug 1, 2012 1:30:48 GMT -6
I ended up just purchasing a whole new ignition cylinder with all the other locks and new keys. along with a cheap vibration alarm and a rotor wheel lock. Hopefully it won't get stolen again...
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Jul 31, 2012 16:07:09 GMT -6
so basically just hook up the accessory(black) and the hot(red)? Does the actual kill switch wire into the ignition switch usually, or does it go to the main power? It wouldn't work if I got a 4 prong and hooked all up right? 'cause when I flip it on some aren't supposed to be on correct? So just get a 2 prong and hook up the 2. The one black wire has a blue stripe on it.
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Jul 31, 2012 15:20:14 GMT -6
Ah well if you`ve got a separate kill switch, and as long as you can identify which of the black wires is the kill wire, then simply tape off the end of the green wire and the kill wire separately so they are not connected to your ignition toggle (effectively rendering them redundant until you get a new ignition switch). Then just connect the red to the feed on the toggle and black accessory to another terminal on the toggle and see if the system works. wouldnt i need the green connected for ground? |
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Jul 31, 2012 14:12:42 GMT -6
The kill switch on the handlebars is still there couldn't I just use that to kill the motor or am I missing something? setup 2 different toggles?
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Jul 31, 2012 11:38:11 GMT -6
Alright so my scooter got stolen a week ago and the cops just recovered it yesterday, when I got to it the ignition had been punched. Right now I'm using the metal piece from in the ignition cylinder to turn the switch to start it and it's a pain. I want to remove that and cut into the switch pigtail and wire in a toggle until I can get a new ignition. The ignition has 4 wires, a green(ground) red(hot) and 2 black(accessories?) How would I wire these to a 3 prong toggle switch? Hook the two black together as the accessories then the ground and power? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Jul 20, 2012 12:01:27 GMT -6
I can't find a pic from the back but on mine the inside hub of the wheel fits right up against the seal around the axle with no spacer. Then the collar spacer goes against the wheel, then the swingarm, then the bolt, some have a big washer. The swingarm is the collar distance away from the wheel. If you didn't have the right spacers the swingarm wouldn't tighten up on the collar. Make sure your swingarm is tight on the engine and that's how far away it should be from the wheel. Maybe you're overthinking this. Make sure you use some grease on all of the parts except the threads and lock nut. Clean them with brake cleaner before you tighten them up. Rich took everything apart and put it back together.... MOST of the shaking went away, I would say about 90% of it, and the squeaking from the bearings stopped... It rides a lot smoother, not sure what I did or maybe something was just loose... I am taking it apart again today to grease everything because I didn't do that, didn't have grease when I took it apart but getting it done today... I'm suposed to get a wheel sent to me under warranty I think that is what's causing the little bit of shaking that's left. As for as everything being off center, I have no clue.... All spacers are where they should be according to the place I got it from.... |
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Jul 19, 2012 8:26:05 GMT -6
is there a picture of how close the swing arm is to the wheel? I did get the original order number from the guy I bought it from and they are suppsed to look at the pictures and see if they can figure out what's missing and send me some replacement parts. The guy had purchased it from Deealinc. I just took off the wheel and everything, there was no spacer on drum side, there was a long spacer on the wheel side of swing arm and then there was another washer/spacer on the bolt side that was about 1/8" long/wide, looks like it was supposed to go on top of seal and bearings so bolt wouldn't tear it up... Here's pics...    After I took it all apart and put it back together, the bearings stopped squeaking and it's no where close to being as bouncy as it was... It still does but I think that is the wheel.... |
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Post by ruckingoodtime on Jul 18, 2012 20:50:19 GMT -6
I believe there maybe TWO spacers one short and one long. May be your problem is your missing one of them. Alleyoop That is what I was thinking too... Trying to find someone else that has this exact model that could post some pictures of what theirs looks like so I can compare... |
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