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Post by Steve on Jun 8, 2013 13:38:26 GMT -6
Greetings & Sallytashunz! I think the PAIR system is all gone.  Here is what I took off.  I believe the PAIR system has been completely removed, correct? I even blocked the feed to the exhaust. I know - fantastic! :-)  Are there other ports/parts to be blocked/plugged/removed? Thanks, in advance!! < Steve > |
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Post by Steve on Jun 5, 2013 9:58:36 GMT -6
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Post by Steve on Jun 4, 2013 19:09:22 GMT -6
Alleyoop, Sir! Seems to work OK. I rode it around my 55+ complex and put 7.8 up-hill-down-hill-stop-n-go miles on it. The speedometer went up to 40 a couple of times. (It must be broken cuz the speed limit is 25.) It seems a bit quieter, too... We'll see. It seemed to work OK for me before.  The next couple of days should tell me something. I'll let you know one way or the other, probably after the weekend. It'll give me some good riding time. Thanks a million for all of your help!! (I suppose that's not much due to inflation...) Semper Fi, < Steve > |
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Post by Steve on Jun 4, 2013 15:40:14 GMT -6
I just installed my Trail Tech Tach.  I left the engine running about 15 minutes and went to adjust the air fuel mixture and RPMs per Alleyoop's earlier post. It was running about 3400rpm. I adjusted the (throttle) idle to where it was about 2200. I turned the mixture screw all the (CW) in, then out (CCW) two and a half. After turning it CCW two 1/4 turns without a change in RPMs, I ended up turning it 1/4 turn past the 2 1/2 position; RPMs at 2050. I backed it off an 1/8th as you said. Just learning, I turned the throttle a bit and the rear wheel didn't start turning until about 2800-3000. Whatcha think? < Steve > |
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Post by Steve on Jun 1, 2013 20:55:03 GMT -6
You guys are kinduv making me paranoid!
BUT - I have a cable lock to attach it to poles, a brake lock so they can't roll it, and I'm waiting for my alarm to come in. I haven't rode the scooter (150cc BMS Romans) much but intent to ride a lot.
As long as it slows them down enough for them to be seen and/or caught!
Locks only keep honest people honest...
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Post by Steve on Jun 1, 2013 16:28:32 GMT -6
EVAP system removed. Here's the pic (I keep reading other posts and everyone keeps asking for pics  ).  Did I forget anything? Alleyoop: On removal of the PAIR system, you mentioned removing the "pipe." Is that the chrome upside-down U piece attached to the valve cover that you are talking about? Does the thickness of the NCY block off plate affect the tightness of the valve cover? < Steve > |
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Post by Steve on May 31, 2013 9:28:37 GMT -6
Thanks, guys. I'll keep you posted. John - too late! |
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Post by Steve on May 30, 2013 20:59:45 GMT -6
Yeah, yeah, first things first...then the trike.  Thanks for the link! I eliminated the Y and just ran a hose direct. Just have to find a 3/8 or 1/2" plug for the large hose and it's done! The PAIR system. If I understand you correctly, I will only need the NCY cover and a plug for the hose that goes into the ... exhaust? Black piece of plastic anyway... Appreciate the information and assistance! < Steve > |
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Post by Steve on May 30, 2013 20:31:57 GMT -6
Thank you!
So-o-o, the direction of the fuel filter makes no difference?
What is the name of the metal piece? Where did you get yours?
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Post by Steve on May 30, 2013 19:40:37 GMT -6
So - I guess I'll go ahead and pull off the EVAP system. A couple of questions, if I may...
1. Why put a fuel filter on the end of the hose?
2. Which way does the "flow" go? Into the hose or out of the hose?
3. What do you use to plug up the remaining holes?
Sure, Alleyoop, go ahead and send me the information on removing the PAIR system. Since I have it torn apart, I might as well do what I can to improve my ride.
Thank you very much!
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Post by Steve on May 30, 2013 16:28:46 GMT -6
Ok.
After 10-12 minutes, I advanced the throttle about 1/8". It seemed like the engine was gonna cough a couple times...it just sounds like, at the first instance, it doesn't know what to do with the influx of gas. Then it revved up to where it should be. Another 1/8": no stuttering, it revved right up.
After 20 minutes of idling; and trying to fine tune the fuel/air flow; it sounds like it did before I started all of this. And it still smells a bit. (I know - it's new...)
The TinyTach hasn't arrived yet.
What else should I take a look at?
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Post by Steve on May 30, 2013 11:00:58 GMT -6
Thanks, and Good Morning! Idling was never a problem...but I'll watch the fuel filter. So'z I got it off. I didn't see the plastic filter at first. (Nice mess, eh?)  As a matter of course, I should change the O-ring, no? Is it unique? I have a bunch of regular assorted rings here at the house, but not sure if they will work on a gasoline connection... (I told you I'm new to all of this.) I peeked inside the semi-dry gas tank. Is it supposed to be consistently shiny inside? There appear to be "spots" scattered throughout. Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Oh, Alleyoop, I found your post about installing hazard lights. I thought of them every time my scooter quit on me! That's my next project. < Steve > |
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Post by Steve on May 29, 2013 11:05:12 GMT -6
Cuz I live in California, I don't think I can legally modify the systems. I don't think I could ever sell it...
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Post by Steve on May 28, 2013 22:56:02 GMT -6
Clamps or zip ties...it's in a heqquva position! On my chore list is the removal of the petcock and elimination of the rubber portion. Since the fuel is flowing, do we look at the vacuum system next? Here is a top view of the whole system:  The cannisters:  What is the function of the cannisters? Can they be tested? A close-up of the little one:  Is the larger one supposed to be secured in place? Does it matter if it is vertical or horizontal? What are the two vents(?) for at the bottom?  Thanks for all of your help! < Steve > |
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Post by Steve on May 28, 2013 18:11:57 GMT -6
Thanks.
Upon further searching and subsequent analysis....
Yep - that's the drain hose. Only problem was when I turned the screw, the gasoline ended up on top of the engine. So-o-o, now I need to replace a cracked carburetor drain hose. I connected my clear plastic hose to it. It seemed to function well. That means that the fuel spit out; paused (for the float to fill?) and then streamed out again; then repeated each time I tried to crank it up.
It seemed to have more "volume" in its streams than the other tests. Logic would dictate that the only way that could happen is if the fuel line from tank to carb exit is flowing smoothly.
Can I replace the black drain hose inside the coiled wire with the clear polyurethane hose I have?
The real trick is going to be replacing the tension clamp with a new one... ;-)
The next step?
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