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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 7, 2010 11:55:03 GMT -6
Thats basically it, although the canister is large enough to get your hand in to get at the filter by taking the disc end apart. I'll take some measurements and more pics, for you, when I tear back into it.
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 6, 2010 19:55:46 GMT -6
Thats right. I should have mentioned that of course. Story is still the same.
There are kits out there. I've just not seen the results I'd need to go with one. Yet!
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 6, 2010 17:46:28 GMT -6
Some feel the LED bulb replacements are not bright enough w/o going over to an actual LED system. You may run into slight problems with your turn signals, w/o a the proper digital blinker unit, and so far, I've only seen one LED Headlight conversion that I would consider.
I've replaced my Brake/Tail light with the LED bulb replacement and don't have a problem with it.
The headlights work a little different. LED lights tend to diffuse in all directions, instead of focus down the road. While oncoming traffic can certainly see YOU better, it is questionable whether you can see any further down the road, or if all the diffusion actually serves to "night blind" the rider to a certain extent.
A lot of people fuss with the headlight upgrades, then settle for aux driving lights, that run DC directly off the battery, that they can manually turn on and off via a switch.
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 6, 2010 9:43:12 GMT -6
The actual filter element is just the run of the mill paper cone style filter, with a metal cap on the end, but you can easily drop in a Uni-filter or just about anything else that will fit and tighten down with a band clamp. I've done some thinking about riding in the rain with it. I'm already looking for something to make another sleeve. This one will probably be mesh with a non-permeable top or cover. Something that will deflect direct rain, but still let it breath some. It wouldn't take too long to slip under a roof somewhere and remove a couple disc's to open it up further to compensate, if need be. The way the disc's are set up, while the canister is open, it's more like open to four very thin closely spaced baffles, separated only by sets of small lock washers. Also while it may not appear as such in the photos, the intake is also raked down to make sure anything that condenses or does get sucked in there, drains out eventually. At the very least it will be a workable excuse, for not wanting to take him out in the rain. Remember, Keets spends his off hours in the middle of my kitchen floor. This will be his first Indiana winter. He might not like it!
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 5, 2010 23:34:07 GMT -6
Yep. That's the one Al. Just came in Bronze instead. Still looks really good . Hope you do give one a try. I'd like to know if the disc's are interchangeable with the SuperTrapp exhaust disc's. This is a performance intake. the pipe that comes with it is larger than the one with the OEM air box. Maybe not as much as a foam filter attached directly to the carb, but it does suck lots of air. When I first took it out, dashed up to 25 like a bat out of, well you know, then of course, fell right on it's face, like you just reached down and turned it off, until I backed out of the throttle. To compensate, I've drilled 3 holes in my OEM exhaust, and turned my A/F adjustment 3 full turns out. I'll need to up jet to an 85 or 88. In the mean time, I got to thinking. On a lark or stroke, one or the other, I came up with a stretch "Skiers" type of winter headband. The Elastic type with sort of flaps on the sides to cover your ears. Twisted it over once on itself and slipped it over the cannister disc's. Presto! Enough flow restriction to make it run like a shot w/o so much as a bobble. My accelerator pump had been giving me a little "miss" at about 15mph. No more! The Mod on the exhaust makes it only marginally louder, but lower and throatier. And YES you can hear the carb resonating through the disc filter. Sounds like there's something definitely going on there Here's what I ended up with. I know, but it works!
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 5, 2010 10:35:36 GMT -6
Finally found my camera cord to upload. So here's what I've got. Still need to upjet as the Airflow has been greatly increased, and OEM exhaust is Modded as well. Three holes in the exhaust is a not too loud and much more throaty. And YES! you can hear the carb purring on the other side from the new disc filter cannister. Here's "Keets" Before. Stock Box New Intake Pipe Installed/small section of radiator hose & clamps Not Yet Mounted. Just Hanging. Another Angle Mounted/DIY Gas Line & Washers Bushing and 2 1/4" bolt(New) Into existing OEM Airbox mounting hole. Stabilizer Strapping to rear CVT cover bolt. Outside in the sun and ready to run! Gracie Ready to Ride, Like Yesterday!
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 27, 2010 21:54:53 GMT -6
This thing ran fine for 8 months.
If the orifice in the main appears smaller than the pilot, then it has to be clogged. Just to make me happy. Soak it over night in carb cleaner and run a wire or something through there and see if that doesn't open it up. Heck, soak and clean them both for that matter, and since your there take another good look at the needle and float assembly, and the diaphragm.
At that point you'll almost have run through carb cleaning 101, if you haven't already, go ahead. Whats to be lost. There are a lot of ports and holes that have to open in the carb and the only way to know they are open is to get some cleaner or air or both physically through them.
You said you have the A/F screw turned all the way in clockwise, and your still running rich. Did you ever turn that screw more than three turns counter clockwise? You might also have turned it too far clockwise or to the lean side and bent or broken the needle, if you cranked on it too hard.
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 27, 2010 10:15:30 GMT -6
That is very curious. Under no circumstances I can imagine should the main jet be anywhere close to the size of the pilot, let alone smaller.
This may sound silly, but does the "jet" itself appear to be smaller, or are you referring to the hole in the jet? You should just barely be able to see light through the pilot jet when held up to a bright source, and a couple strands of copper wire should be the only thing that you can get in there for cleaning purposes.
Were that actually the case, then it would be nearly impossible to run as rich as you are describing, if it would start and run at all.
It's hard to say what jets you have in there. If you haven't done any jetting work after installing the Uni-filter, you should be running lean.
Enviromoto has a nice Naraku jet kit, that should be able to take care of any up or down jetting you might feel you need. I've got an itching suspicion, it could be something else.
You'll need to straighten that manifold problem up before it sounds like you can stabilize the idle enough to tune the A/F mix properly. I'd replace that then get back to us for sure. Pic's and Vid's will sound help bunches.
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 26, 2010 18:48:52 GMT -6
Got the filter in today! Not too bad time frame for an Import part. Thanks again to JR for the iron man google work.
I scanned that guys site until I found the air filter, some 20 or 30 pages in myself. Had I not known it was in there, I'd given up the search long before that, so yeah. Thanks!
Everything looks good. I hooked the Inlet pipe to the carb with a couple band clamps and a 2 1/2" piece of radiator hose. Pipe fits nicely and comes out right where it needs to be. I can use one of the old airbox bolt holes, and the rear CVT case bolt to mount and secure the disc air filter.
I should have some pics uploaded tomorrow, and an idea of how it's going to run.
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 18, 2010 21:32:56 GMT -6
I told you we'd stir some of the GBGD's up. If this is a fuel delivery or A/F mix related problem, Al will get you up and running.
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 18, 2010 16:03:49 GMT -6
Good your making progress. Don't get frustrated. I had the same thing happen to my scoot. Its very common.
Take the down time to do some very important things for both your bike and yourself. We all stand by a very important creedo > Has this bike been PDI'd. That is Post Delivery Inspection. This should be done to every Scooter bought, used or new.
There is an extremely good how to on this in the Tech section. If you can't find it tell us and someone will post you a link.
PDI is basically going through your scooter, checking and changing out the cheap OEM fuel and vacuum lines, with good quality rubber. Replacing fuel filter. Visually and physically checking wiring and grounds, for continuity and bad connections. And More!
Depending on how thorough of a job you want to do, tightening and applying loctite, to nuts and bolts, sanding and painting bad welds or rust, applying silicon to body mounting clips, to prevent loss.
I'm really only touching on some of the main things that a PDI includes. The real value in doing this, is you of course head off many potential problems, but most of all...You learn more about your scooter, than you probably thought possible. Most repairs you can do for yourself. Working on scooters can be challenging, but it is far from rocket science, and well within anyone's capability who wishes to invest the time, and has the capability of baking or following a recipe
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 18, 2010 15:02:13 GMT -6
Fuel system runs off of vacuum. be sure and check all vacuum lines for pinches, holes, or abrasions. As always, check those valve clearances before going very far into it.
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 17, 2010 11:44:38 GMT -6
Well I'll certainly defer to the experts.
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 16, 2010 21:41:54 GMT -6
I've never heard anyone badmouth an iridium plug before....well outside of the local Kymco dealer, who also throws away any incidental body parts, screws, nuts, or bolts he might find to be too much of a hassle to take off and replace more than once on a customer's bike. That's pretty good company.
You will notice a difference and I don't think you'll be disappointed. I seriously doubt I'll ever go to that much trouble to prep a plug. But who knows what the next blizzard will bring. And it's nice to know there is an option. Good Post!
If your still running the OEM china plug, however, you're looking for trouble.
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Post by kr10k50 on Oct 16, 2010 15:52:40 GMT -6
I wouldn't cut corners on the plug. Go with the NKG Iridium. Well worth the a few extra bucks. Same with Oils and Gear lube. Get the best you can afford within reason. Scoots run on such small amounts of both, they need to be good quality and changed often. Back to the plug again. There is only one to depend on, and it doesn't get a new one, at every oil change. It's sort of like spending a few extra dollars on a good saddle. You'll ride on those extra bucks all day long.
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