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Post by kr10k50 on Dec 2, 2010 17:08:10 GMT -6
I'd probably rather have one of those, than the donut spare they make you deal with now days on most cars.
Just when was the last time you opened up the spare tire compartment with a smile on your face ;D
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 28, 2010 16:36:39 GMT -6
Let me be the first to ask.
Is the battery fully charged, and good?
Does it have a kick start? If so will it start that way?
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 28, 2010 0:36:05 GMT -6
Nice bike. Especially if the owner likes it......but can it Scamp!
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 28, 2010 0:33:07 GMT -6
All the above paid links ship cheaply and quickly. Heck one of them shipped a box full of parts to one member, so he could plug and play until he found out what was wrong, and only charged him for what he used, and the cost to ship the rest back. Try that with...well just about anyone else you might order from. I ordered from both Scrappy and Enviro, had their stuff anywhere from 48 hrs to just less than a week. I made the mistake of ordering the Dr. Pulley Sliders off of Ebay and waited 3 weeks for shipment. My disc air filter came from mainland china and beat the Ebay Sliders, by more than a full week!
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 28, 2010 0:12:49 GMT -6
I'd certainly drill before shelling out the cash for a performance exhaust. But that's just me i guess. I figure when this nice new one wears out, I'm going that way with the replacement anyway. My exhaust is a little louder sure, but not very much. The tone is deeper and to me less offensive than the rest of the scooters running around my area. It's certainly not as loud as the performance pipes I've heard recently. I'd almost say it just sounds "different" instead of louder. Different types of OEM exhaust might react slightly different in tone and volume. The one my scoot came with was a rather nice one, and I have seen at least 3 or 4 different configurations out running around on other bikes. The head case running the local Kymco dealership, told me it was a "Deluxe" stock pipe. Since the bike cost 600 new, i strongly doubt that, but he also throws away seat bucket bolts, and anything else he might find annoying or unnecessary when doing customer repairs.
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Clinician
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 26, 2010 9:24:02 GMT -6
Great link, but I still go sliders. On most 50's you end up somewhere between 5 and 7 grams. I bought 6.5's on a suggestion from Enviro. He asked me how the scoot was performing and my rider weight, pointed me to Dr Pulley, and was right on. It was like riding a different scooter. My OEM rollers were 9grams! Top end up a few mph's and i can accelerate up most hills around here, for the entire climb. It's a lot hotter off the line at stop lights. Enough so that you can sometimes hear the car besides you mash their accelerator to correct the matter
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 25, 2010 12:57:21 GMT -6
Now you should have almost as good a working knowledge of your particular scoot, as the average dealer out there selling them. If it runs perfect out of the box, and no PDI gets run, then when it does go south, you would have no idea and little to go on, to enact the fix. Just knowing which lines and parts are which, and where they go, what they do, along with how to start trouble shoot diagnostics, will go a long way towards keeping a scoot running and out of the repair shop. I replaced and reran Vacuum and Fuel lines during my PDI and got a vacuum line too close to a threaded bolt post. Wore a hole out fast and would not start after about 300 miles. The few days spent lining that out, along with the PDI, and Scooter Doc gods. taught me more about scooters, than the local shops around here surely ever wanted me to know.
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 24, 2010 6:42:13 GMT -6
Thanks guys. I almost thought as much. Never hurts to hope On that note, has anyone seen anything that might work on a chinascoot? Its the common Suni body style, and the rack really doesn't have to be extremely heavy duty, but I do need to get some weight ahead of the handlebars. Mostly just the stuff I'll need to have at hand. Camera, Cell Phone, Rain suit, Map, Glasses, Small Tool kit, etc. Would be nice if it folded up when not in use, like the Euro styles, but I don't want to push my luck asking for too much. No baskets please
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 23, 2010 18:21:26 GMT -6
I'd like to do some "Scamping", next spring, and I'm interested in finding and mounting a front rack on my Roketa. The very few I see out there, are for Vespa's and other Euro's, haven't seen anything for chinascoots. I also have a couple what look to be knock outs, about 2/3rds of the way down the front of the cowling, and wonder if anyone knows just why and what they might be for. It looks to almost be about where you might want a lower support for a rack, but I really find it hard to believe, that's what these are. You tell me.
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 17, 2010 11:11:49 GMT -6
another left handed vote here > /
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 12, 2010 16:43:57 GMT -6
Need a plug chop to tell for sure about the #88. 85 or 88 for sure w/o the BBK, I would think. I would certainly open up the exhaust some as well. It's one of those cheap Mods, that doesn't cost you anything as long as you have the drill and bit. More A/F in will almost always want a little less restriction on the way out. I just took the chrome end cap off.(3 bolts) and made 3 evenly space holes. I think I used 3/8" bit. Be sure and have a drill bit long enough to reach and penetrate the interior baffle. The result in sound for me was only slightly louder, with a deeper tone. Nice actually.
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 10, 2010 21:18:49 GMT -6
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 8, 2010 12:23:00 GMT -6
Heh. My Meitian Expresso mirrors were plastic and came pretty much stripped right out of the crate. Had to spend $30 bucks right away for a decent set, because they would send only one replacement at a time, under warranty, and it would have been exactly the same as the junk it came with.
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 7, 2010 21:48:53 GMT -6
Yeah, the quality of some of these electrical parts are so bad the people selling them don't even accept returns. They do make "Brand Name" CDI's out there. Molassi even makes one with preset rev positions for driving in and out of speed restricted zones, if you want to spend 80-90 bucks for one. I replaced the CDI with one of the blue so called performance ones, from Scrappydog's. Also replaced the coil with the hotter of the two, coils he offers. One of the two, and I'm pretty sure it was the coil, really really straightened my starting problems out. I barely have to touch the starter for it crank and run w/o touching the throttle. Before that I actually worn my kick start out in about 800 chinaclicks. Now I only touch it when changing oil and I want to gently turn the engine to squeeze all the dirty oil out of it I can. Changed my tails to LED at the same time and now my battery is always fresh and ready to go. Never gets much of a load demanded of it.
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Post by kr10k50 on Nov 7, 2010 19:31:36 GMT -6
Check all grounds. Especially the engine to frame. I have the same bike. Haven't had anything like this, but it sure sounds like a bad ground somewhere. If holding either brake allows it to rev, then that's a great indicator.
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