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Post by nivanov on Jul 16, 2017 18:07:17 GMT -6
Nope, nothing negative! I don't see why shorts would be an issue. The load from the bulb doesn't seem to affect USB either.
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Post by nivanov on Oct 6, 2016 8:19:10 GMT -6
Yep, after reading about valve adjustment, I think that's the next thing I'll look at, after replacing the battery with a gel one. Thanks!
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Post by nivanov on Sept 26, 2016 10:13:38 GMT -6
Hello everyone,
I have a TaoTao ATM50-A1 and when I ride it every day, it starts like a champion. However, when I leave it not running for a few days, mostly over the weekend, it has major troubles starting. It would crank a few times, almost start, but then the electric starter stops cranking the engine - it still rotates, but with a different sound. I also notice a smell of gasoline while I'm trying to crank it. I usually have recharge the battery manually, then trying starting the scooter again, and eventually it will start. Needless to say, the kickstart doesn't help either.
I thought that maybe the vacuum petcock leaks, so the carb gets flooded with gas over time. I changed the petcock to a manually operated one. Last Friday, I shut off the petcock before leaving the scooter for the weekend, and this Monday the battery died before the scooter would start.
The electric starter sounds very strange when I crank after the scooter sits idle for a while. First, it cranks normally - I can feel the engine turn over and the scooter almost starts. Then I try cranking again but now it feels like the starter is "skipping" - it rotates quickly, but I don't feel the engine turning over. I try cranking anyways, the battery eventually dies, I take it inside, charge it, reconnect it, crank it again and the scooter starts like a champion. It's almost like I need to crank it, then let it sit for a bit, and crank it again for it to start. Any idea what could be causing this?
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Post by nivanov on Sept 7, 2015 22:52:13 GMT -6
Oh no, the whole spark plug was wobbling. That explains everything - the engine was indeed losing compression, though not because of the valves. After I installed the new carb, the scooter started running very loudly, so I replaced the new air filter with the old one - that one seems to hold the carb at a slight angle to the manifold, which was the source of all the noise (not the original rattle - that was just the spark plug/shroud). I'm going to install the new air filter without touching the manifold and calibrate the mixture / idle. Thanks for all the help and support!
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Post by nivanov on Sept 7, 2015 13:11:52 GMT -6
So I replaced the carb, and the scooter started, but slowly, as always. I noticed that the spark plug coil (or shroud, whatever you call it) was shaking quite a bit when the engine was running. I gently touched it and the scooter died instantly. I think maybe the coil isn't sitting well on the spark plug, or maybe the spark plug itself got loose - that would certainly ruin the compression! Unfortunately, while I was ducking around, the battery died from all the cranking, so now I have to wait for it to recharge a bit. I'll post an update once this problem is solved!
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Post by nivanov on Sept 4, 2015 15:22:51 GMT -6
I ended up buying that carb on amazon with upgraded jets as well as a new air filter that plugs directly into the carb instead of having a pipe lead to a filter box like it does on stock.
In terms of valves getting tight, could you guys point me in the right direction of how to fix that?
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Post by nivanov on Sept 3, 2015 15:45:41 GMT -6
OK good to know! Once again, thanks for all your help!
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Post by nivanov on Sept 3, 2015 15:18:06 GMT -6
Great, thanks for the advice! I don't think the motor is losing compression - the scooter idles just fine after it starts, whether it's cold or warmed up. It seems that adjusting the mixture screw is kind of an ongoing thing as the temperature changes during the season. On my carb (and I think on all stock carbs), the screw was sealed (I drilled out the cap) and the screw itself was not slotted (I slotted it with a dremel). However, the screw itself is still located on the side of the carb and isn't really accessible via the little door under the seat, like the idle screw. Is there a carb that has that screw relocated so it's more easily accessible? I'm thinking of replacing the stock carb. While I'm at it, I might as well get the one with upgraded jets. Do you know of a replacement carb that would fit that criteria? I've read that japanese carbs are more expensive but way more reliable, but I can't find any, since I don't know the exact brand. I've found this one: smile.amazon.com/49cc-Scooter-Carburetor-Stroke-Upgrades/dp/B002QBNH9W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1441312834&sr=8-5&keywords=50cc+carburetor...but I'm pretty certain it's still China-made and the mixture screw isn't any more accessible.
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Post by nivanov on Sept 3, 2015 12:18:06 GMT -6
As always, thanks for your advice, Alleyoop! I know how to do all those things except the last one. How do I check if the motor is losing compression?
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Post by nivanov on Sept 3, 2015 11:17:30 GMT -6
Another strange thing I noticed while trying to figure out this problem is that the scooter idles a lot better when it's off the center kick stand. As soon as the back wheel hits the ground (even if the scooter is perfectly upright), the idle RPMs go up. It still idles fine, but there's a noticeable differences in idle engine RPMs.
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Post by nivanov on Sept 3, 2015 11:11:51 GMT -6
Hey everyone, I recently changed the motor oil and gear oil on my TaoTao ATM50-A1 (3000 km). I've changed the motor oil enough times to not doubt myself, but with gear oil, I had to buy a new bottle of oil. For the first gear oil change, soon after the purchase, I used Mobil 1 75W-90, which has a clear side where you can see how much oil you've dispensed. I misplaced that bottle (from 3 years ago), so I went to buy a new one (still 75W-90 of course) which didn't have the clear side, so I eyeballed the amount, since the fill hole is vertical, and I couldn't get the funnel in to fill it. I eyeballed it by filling it and then letting it leak out in a vertical position - from what I've read, that seems to do the trick. This might not be the issue at hand, but I thought I'd mention it.
Anyways, here's the real problem. The scooter would have a TERRIBLE time starting, but once it starts, it has no problem idling, even after the choke stops enriching the mixture. I've recorded a video of me starting it:
I can get it started if I turn the throttle about 15% - any more or any less, and the engine just turns over without starting. However, once, the engine starts, I can let go of the throttle and it idles just fine. I've searched this forum and checked all the usual suspects: the vacuum line to the petcock produces suction, the petcock itself dispenses gas when suction is applied, the vacuum line is dry, and the carb is not leaking gas from the drain hose.
In addition to this problem, my scooter has been making a little more noise than usual while running, though it seems to not affect the performance at all. I've recorded another video where that sound can be identified, though it might be too subtle:
The noise in question is the higher pitch rattle that matches the engine RPMs. Before, the noise the scooter was making was of lower-pitch, the standard engine rumble.
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Post by nivanov on Aug 7, 2015 14:23:49 GMT -6
That's a great explanation, thanks! I think I need to lean out the carb just a little bit - I'll give that a shot.
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Post by nivanov on Aug 7, 2015 8:45:10 GMT -6
Hi everyone, In the last few days, I noticed that my scooter has a lot more pickup when it's around 70F as compared to 85F. When it's 80F+, I top out around 40 mph on the speedometer (around 35mph GPS verified). However, when it's around 70F, it reaches 50mph on the speedometer (over 40mph GPS). Acceleration is also noticeably better. I understand that engines heat up, so having cooler air around it makes a difference, but we're only talking about 15 degrees difference.
I was wondering what's the reason behind such drastic performance difference and what I could try to have that performance in a wider range of weathers? I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40, I have a performance CDI (Newmotoz Gy6 CDI from Amazon), and I've unsealed the stock carb since it was running too lean.
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Post by nivanov on Sept 30, 2014 9:01:52 GMT -6
I think it's single piston, but I'll take a look. I guess bleeding them isn't that big a deal - I'll give that a go as well. Thanks everyone!
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Post by nivanov on Sept 29, 2014 12:58:57 GMT -6
I've tried that. It got better, but only marginally. Still not nearly as strong as it was before, and probably not safe to ride.
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