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Post by widehide on Oct 12, 2010 11:54:37 GMT -6
fubar05, what is being described here as pyramids is simply high, then low spots on the tire, a tire store might call it cupping. when a tire is out of balance it will wear unevenly. There will be a valley, then a peak. Look at google images for tire cupping.
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Post by widehide on Oct 11, 2010 7:20:55 GMT -6
I would not tear anything down, thanks to Rich, "Big Guy" he has covered this problem before elsewhere. This is what Rich said.
" Disarming the Alarm:
The "disarm" button disarms it (the alarm chirps twice) -- but only for about 30 seconds, then it spontaneously rearms itself (chirping once). It seems that only by disarming the alarm twice before it has a chance to reset can one turn off the alarm altogether.
Remote Starting:
The start button is used to start the motor remotely. This can be useful in cold weather and in some other circumstances but should not be used for driving the scooter. The ignition key and remote start seem to get very confused if both are used. You're better off not using the remote start, or if you do use it, it is best to turn off the engine again using the disarm button and starting it with the key for driving.
Using the remote start and not the key may cause serious injury! If the lock button is depressed when the scooter is running, the alarm will sound and the engine will cut off. So if you used the remote start and put the keys in your pocket, your scooter may CUT OFF at any given moment due to accidental activation in your pocket!
Alarm Sensitivity:
According to Roketa and Tank, the sensitivity cannot be set, but they are WRONG!
The alarm sensor setting from the factory is so sensitive that a bit of wind or falling leaves will keep the scooter chirping regularly through the night (and, of course, running the battery down in the process).
This has caused many Chinese scooter owners to abandon all thought of using the alarm system altogether."
Thanks Rich , hope you don't mind the copy and paste from another forum.
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Post by widehide on Oct 11, 2010 7:02:29 GMT -6
gnoik, it sounds like you could have had a vacuum leak. it would idle ok but not rev up, good vacuum is required to pull the carburetor slid up and rev up the engine.
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multi-meter
by: widehide - Oct 10, 2010 21:01:35 GMT -6
Post by widehide on Oct 10, 2010 21:01:35 GMT -6
classic50, there is nothing magic about your DIGITAL muli tester, This is simply a digital instrument that will measure, I.E. Voltage both AC or DC, also Resistance, example if you have continuity or an open circuit. In an advanced mode if you are an Electronics Technician you can understand what the resistance reading means. Also you can read current draw. And usually read a Diode polarity. All of this being said, If you are not trained in Electronics you will only check for + or - 12V and open or short circuits. Sorry I can't make this more clear. Do a Google search for how to use a Digital or DVM meter, A tutorial will surly come up. look at this link. good luck and have a great day. mechatronics.mech.northwestern.edu/design_ref/tools/multimeter.html
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motor CAPUT
by: widehide - Oct 10, 2010 12:46:17 GMT -6
Post by widehide on Oct 10, 2010 12:46:17 GMT -6
damin69, as cheap as these scooters are now, you might think about parting this one out and buying another used scooter with much less miles. By the time you buy parts, if you can get them, and buy the tools. Repairing it might not be the way to go, But I am Lazy and Disabled, that makes most of my decisions easy. Good luck.
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Post by widehide on Oct 10, 2010 12:28:45 GMT -6
If your front tire has those "pyramids" then it has been out of balance for a long time. The pyramids are known as cupping. They have become so bad that they are probably causing your problem vibration. The tire will go through harmonic oscillations at different speeds. Yes it can feel like it is from below or rear. Now It is too late to balance the tire and make it ride smooth, It will need to be replaced in order to have a smooth ride I have used Dynabeads on 4 scooters, It helped all but one that had a very out of round front tire.
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Post by widehide on Oct 9, 2010 14:24:48 GMT -6
scooterran, yes there is 2 valve settings, but that is not your problem, don't worry you will get to do that soon enough. Depending on what make of scooter you are riding fuel should not have kept flowing into the carb. The gas tank outlet is lower than the carb and the engine must be running for fuel to flow up to the carb bowl. For now just be very observant and after you stop riding watch for fuel drips on the ground, try to see where it comes from. There is a bowl carburetor bowl drain screw, some have it at the end of a aluminum cylinder at the end of a drain hose, down low near the left floor board, some might be directly on the carb bowl. If that screw has vibrated loose you will have the very symptom you mentioned.
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Post by widehide on Oct 9, 2010 14:10:23 GMT -6
It sounds like you turned off the scooter using the remote, When this happens you have to start it with the remote. I'm not the remote expert, but there are others here who can tell you how to get back to your normal key and start button configuration. You do not have a problem so don't worry. wait for the experts here to chime in.
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Post by widehide on Oct 9, 2010 14:06:11 GMT -6
Welcome, gnoik, thanks for the info. What size main jet did you go to?
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Post by widehide on Apr 26, 2010 6:51:03 GMT -6
And I used a rubber tip that goes on walking cane/stick.
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Post by widehide on Apr 3, 2010 22:54:01 GMT -6
alleyoop, don't you think running the engine at 7200-7500 rpm on these small single cylinder engines will be very stressful and reduce the life span greatly. My 257cc engines are basically geared to cruise at 60 mph at 6000 rpm. Your trikes are very heavy for a 150cc class scooter. The 7500 rpm is a max torque figure, I would not expect that to be a steady cruising rpm. that would be like driving your auto at near redline. I would try for lower rpm with max speed, whatever that is. You want to ride this scooter for a while without expensive engine repairs. Just my humble non profrssional opinion.
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Post by widehide on Apr 1, 2010 7:26:57 GMT -6
bashan, I get about 65 mpg on both, depending how hard we ride, 55 mph is a real good easy cruising speed. You can crank it on and do 65 mph passes if needed. The VOG is heavier by about 30 lbs. at 385 lbs. The Vog sits up higher and feels taller when you ride, sort of like my KL650 felt. MY VOG came from Scootertronics with some upgrades scooter Mike ordered on his models. They both are fine, However I have never needed to adjust the valves on the VOG but have had to do it several times on the Roketa 54B. The VOG is the true VOG with adjustable rear Monoshock, and adjustable handlebars, the Roketa has no adjustments, the VOG carb as came on mine is easier to get to all adjustments, the Roketa not so.
The Vog does have much more vibration and rattles, the old thumper syndrome. You will be happy with either until you start doing valve adjustments. JR is an expert on valve adjustment, he is fast, it still takes me 5 hrs to do the Roketa valves. Another thought, the rear tail light bulbs are easy to replace on the 54B but very hard on the VOG. Except for Valve adjustments I guess I would pick the 54B. Keep in mind the Plain MC-250-54, 244cc engine is still a great choice, more parts are available and the upright engine design is easier to work on. Had I known better way back I might have looked for the 244cc. So flip a coin.
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Post by widehide on Mar 31, 2010 20:59:39 GMT -6
alleyoop, this is a real good post, Thanks for that run down, here is your first "exalt" on the new forum, good job.
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Post by widehide on Mar 31, 2010 20:34:00 GMT -6
bashan, with no power to the enricher, switch in the open position while the engine is running then the plunger remains retracted, thus enriching the mixture, until you flip the switch to the closed position, applying 12 v to the enricher. About 60 seconds later the plunger extends, and stops the enrich process. This puts you in control of how long you enrich the engine, In very cold climates this might be of use to someone.
jct842, do not use the chainsaw bulb type primer, it has a weak check valve and will allow fuel to be sucked past it. The plunger type primer is designed for Jet skis, Ultra lite airplane engines etc and does not let fuel pass under high vaccum. Ok on my 54B, 257cc engine I was not sure of which nipple on the carb was directly into the venturi, and the vaccum line goes to the top of the CV carb diaphram, I dont want fuel there, I wanted a direct shot of fuel into the intake manifold. I used one of the available vaccum nipples that are on top of the intake manifold right between the carb and the engine. It works great, I have the plunger mounted down low, I use clear tubing, When the engine runs I can see that the fuel is not being drawn up the tube . 2 Pumps on the plunger, Slight throttle twist open, hit the starter and it is running. Thats about as simple as it can get. Have a good evening.
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Post by widehide on Mar 31, 2010 14:40:15 GMT -6
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