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I have a 2006 Viva Roadster, at least I think so since it had yellow tape spelling the word viva on it. I'm pretty sure it does NOT have a CF250 engine. It has a CN250 because when I went to replace the clutch with one made for a cf250, it didn't fit. The people who sold it to me told me I likely had a CN250. Tried the CN250 clutch and it worked. Other things to know: It has 30w HID lights installed, a performance CDI, new stator and thats all thats pertinent to my problems. I don't think the lights are my ultimate problem though. Even when I had the OEM stock lights it gave me this issue, it just lasted a little longer between charges.

So the problem is If I run it for over a hour, it comes home with a drained battery that won't start again till its charged. I even keep a battery charger under my seat so I won't get stranded. Here is what I know: three yellow wires run from the engine case to the regulator. Each shows a voltage of 16.5 volts AC when idling. It does not seem to fluctuate when I gun it. At the battery, I see a idling voltage of 12.08 volts. Again gunning the engine doesn't seem to help. Also this is with a near dead battery, not fully charged. Lastly disconnecting the lights caused the voltage to go up by .4.

I'm sort of suspicious of the stator I put in because I noticed one of the copper wires that was running from one post to another was touching the silvery metal base. I tried to bend it out but the copper is very stiff and brittle and I didn't want it to snap. The old stator put out 14-15 volts AC with more irregularity which is why I replaced it. The stator I bought was meant for a CF250 though. Maybe the CN250 requires a different stator? They looked identical except the orignal had a longer wire. As far as replacing the regulator, which one should I get? I can't find a site that lists my parts by model so I have to go by engine type.

That's a relief, thanks.

I was told on /o/ that Florida was going to start doing emission testing across Florida in 2010. I couldn't find any information on it.

Ok I don't want to open a new thread so I'll ask this here. Since I've gotten into this performance improvement mode I went on and bought some parts from scrappy dogs. Most of it worked fine but the 32mm carburetor didn't have the same connections for the choke that my old one did.

So here is a pic of my old choke, my new not yet installed stator and a blurry example of how they relate.



The blue circle is showing where the line from the choke (enrichment circuit) hooks up to one of the yellow AC connections from the stator. My new stator has an extra plug just for this.

The red one shows the connector that goes onto the temp gauge in my thermostat. The new carb doesn't have a connection for the temp sensor. So then my temp gauge is pegged at hot on a cold start. So...

My old choke, does it rely on info from the temp sensor to variate how open or closed it is? Should I install my old choke into my new carb?

Its hard to do fine tuning on those screws since with the carb tightened in you can't access them. What little bit I did yesterday pretty much involved taking the carb off, messing with the screw, putting the carb back on, starting it, listen, repeat.

oh btw which screw is a/f? So far the only 2 I've seen is the pilot and the one on the bottom I assume is for the float.

Update:

OK did some more adjustments on the pilot screw. I tightened it all the way in, backed it out 2 1/2 turns, ran it, then another turn, ran it, and then my battery went dead lol. With 3 1/2 turns out it'd still bog but wouldn't die upon adding throttle. Thus I was able to get it mid rpm and WOT. It was awfully rough at mid throttle but really picked up closer to WOT and got a kind GROOOMM sound to it. I liked that, now to make it sound like that through the whole powerband.

My stupid jet Needle doesn't have any notches for adjustment so I made a spacer out of alu foil and I will test it tommorow.