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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 17:18:39 GMT -6
stator good cold,,, bad warming up and hot? I don't spend more than maybe ten seconds at most trying to start it, so I doubt that comes into it. The stator consistently shows that it's producing voltage within the normal range. |
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 17:16:03 GMT -6
Your first question was answered two posts back from yours. I measured for about 10 seconds total and there was only the expected variation in the reading (6-82 Vac). Your stator is bad, 6 to 82 Vac isn't going to cut it, it should never drop below 50Vac and should go as high as 110 Vac. Also you did not report a pulse coil wire blue/white reading.
Time for a stator.
JR
That should have been 76. One of the 7 keys on my keyboard doesn't work.. The stator is fine. |
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 17:13:52 GMT -6
1. CDI is bad CDI is new (See first post) 2. Coil is bad Coil is new. Insufficient power is reaching the coil 3. BOOT CAP not making good contact with the WIRES inside the COIL wire itself Insufficient power is reaching the coil 4. Boot cap is bad 5. Bad plug 6. Motor is not grounded to the frame Moto is grounded to the frame. 7. CDI is being grounded out by the KILL WIRE. If it were, wouldn't it's output be 0? |
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 13:18:17 GMT -6
Whatever Kayh did is confusing to say the least. But from I can make out maybe the ground wire going to the CDI was not grounded. Now the black wire being talked about does not make since if that was a AC CDI because if you ground the KILL SIDE of the CDI you will not get a SPARK so that is confusing of what black wire the green was was tied into. All in all that thread is garbage on that site. Stick with us we have TWO of the best Scooter Electrical guys you can ever find RIGHT HERE on this forum. Alleyoop Confusing, but it worked. As far as that thread being garbage, you can discuss that with the poster above. I'm solely interested is getting my bike to work. |
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 13:16:12 GMT -6
Check the trigger coil and see what it is reading and you also didn't answer my question actually two of them, are you measuring 80 AC or DC and have you left the volt meter on the red/black wire and turned the engine over for a good spell and seeing if the voltage is steady and not dropping there? JR Your first question was answered two posts back from yours. I measured for about 10 seconds total and there was only the expected variation in the reading (6-82 Vac). |
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 10:37:40 GMT -6
Just use a good, clean spot on the frame.
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 8:15:38 GMT -6
It's possible that the end of the bendix that sits in the left side engine cover isn't in the hole it's supposed to be in, or the washer that should be on the bendix shaft on the engine side might have fallen away.
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 7:51:55 GMT -6
I spent some time searching around to see if there was anything online regarding this particular problem, but this was all I was able to find - forums.atvrideronline.com/70/7757269/atv-repair-maintenance/my-atv-chinese-made-4-wheeler-will-not-start/page3.html Look for a post from Kayh about 2/3 of the way down, posted 10/18/09 at 6:13PM His solution was this "Well guess what....it didnt work. There was only 2 VAC going to the coil. I unhooked the green wire coming from the CDI and into the black wire (grounds). Guess what.....50VAC to the coil and a spark at the plug. " I'm not sure what it is he was trying to say... |
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 7, 2014 7:45:19 GMT -6
A voltmeter might not be the ideal tool, but it's what I have. I do plan on getting an iscillocope at some point, but today I can only use what I have today.
The stator output to the CDI is measured from the Red/Black wire where it attaches to the CDI.
The CDI output to ignition coil is measured from the Green/Yellow wire where it attaches to the ignition coil.
The readings are consistent and predictable. The stator is generating 80+/- Vsc, the CDI receieves this voltage and sends 30Vac to the ignition coil at first, then it's output drops steadily until it reaches about 2Vac.
Additional attempts at starting show the voltage from the CDI starting not at 30, but closer to 2Vac.
I spliced an additional wire into the CDI ground wire and mounted that to the frame. The wires were cleaned, tinned, soldered, tested and covered with heat shrink tubing.
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 6, 2014 14:36:42 GMT -6
Ok guys let's stay on track here. How should I go about the throttle? Most of the applications for propane I see Is for engines running at a steady rpm, and not changing as much as you would on a bike., although since the bike is spare sitting in my garage I have tinker time to deal with figuring out a part that would work The only thing that comes immediately to mind would be to somehow incorporate a stove dial (the thingy that adjusts the flame) into the throttle. Maybe via a shortened throttle cable, a cam on the dial and a return spring on the cam to bring the throttle back down. I'm guessing that sort of valve would provide more control over the gas flow than a simple paddle valve. |
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Mar 6, 2014 14:25:04 GMT -6
I've gotten my bike to the point where there seems to be only a single problem remaining. There's a thread on that here somewhere, or was. But anyway, at this point everything is working nicely with the exception of the output from the CDI. When attempting to start, the stator will put out around 80 volts steadily. The output from the CDI however will start around 30 V and drop over the course of a few seconds until it's down to 1 or 2 V.
Results are identical using 2 different brand new CDIs.
It's a typical GY6 50cc.
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Feb 6, 2014 15:49:12 GMT -6
The other shop I was thinking of turns out to be BCF Cycles on Military. They usually have a few bikes parked out by the road. I've only been there once though, to buy a headlight bulb.
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Post by FlyingBlindOnARocketCycle on Feb 6, 2014 14:26:30 GMT -6
FINAL CONCLUSION: I did not get any answer here or any other places I posted my questions and decided to pay for repair service. There are only two scooter mechanic in my riding area. First one (in Congress Av, West palm Peach, FL) asked too much and said I have to leave scooter there for a couple of days. Second which sells scooter (in Dixie Hwy, Lake Worth, FL) too said he would repair in half an hour and asked 30% less. $65 for all diagnosis and tune up. Ended up being bad/dirty Carb. Told me that this stock Carb cannot be opened due to flat head bolts. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hi Yami Did the new carb solve the problem? I live in the same area and the Mechanic at Lake Worth Scooters is quite good (the guy from Spain who wears glasses). I'm not sure what the shop on Congress is... The tiny shop set far back from the road on Congress between LW road and tenth ave? Anyway, if you still need a new carb, they're on Ebay for $23 from Miami. Rebuild kits are also on Ebay for $12-12. |
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