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There was no plug at all or evidence that one was there. I get the huge volume of air and it seemed odd to me as well, which is why I posted. Gonna review Alley's diagram and see if I can comprehend what's going on here. Additionally, I realize that properly sealed and functioning airbox, air passageways, intake and exhaust all affect these settings. A quick primer on airbox leaks effects on a=f mixture adjustment would be appreciated. Seems to me if I have leakage before the carb, I am getting more air than spec'd and would lead me to adjust the mixture to compensate. My mind says to adjust it to be leaner to compensate. That's my logic, anyway. How off is my thinking?

AS I have done the minor mods to adapt it for the non-floating ground, it is not all that important, but, yes, you have the EXACT one pictured that was in it. The numbers from the side of the motor is {1P39QMB *11WL0043*} and the serial from the front post is {LD5TCBPAX1110707}. It very much resembles Lanternscoot's 2008 Jonway, but someone went wild with flat black spray paint. I, quite by accident, found the stickers on the rear plastic identifying it to the world as an MB-050B-JCL. Other than 'Jonway' on the lens covers, there is no brand name posted on it, I bought it as-is and the owner gave me no paperwork. With the hodge podge of plastic on it, there is no way to know what I have for sure outside of the above numbers. I am quite certain this scoot had been laid down pretty bad at some point with some plastic replaced with whatever would bolt up. It has 2 different grips and mirror styles and colors, but I am fairly certain it is the same scoot Lantern has. Actually, it was my own doing having to replace this unit as I damaged the 6-coil windings circuit when I first tried to pull the flywheel before knowing the coils were under there. I ran a long bolt into the fan mount holes in an attempt to push it off, but completely severed one winding and marred a couple other, none on the 2-coil ignition circuit though. Upon close inspection, it appears that while you call it a floating ground, there is a small plate that actually grounds the unit to the frame directly with one of the 2 mounting bolts in lieu of the 5th (green) wire. It is clearly visible in the photo you posted on the mounting hole between the 2 ignition coils. The ground for those 2 coils are attached to the small plate so the mounting bolt actually grounds it.

Realize that I am not so much interested in the assembly itself, or even getting an exact replacement, but merely to understand what advantage the dual coil ignition gives. As I have continued researching this since my original post, the only conclusion I can draw is that it is a performance advantage. If it is wound the way I think it is, it provides increased voltage to the ignition for a stronger, surer spark. After some major research, I may just use it to practice rewinding the damaged coil windings circuit. As the crash damage to the scoot appears to be on its right side, it could well be another replacement part the previous owner just got his hands on. It's almost as if the person that put this thing back together had both some knowledge and access to excess parts, possibly a scoot scrap yard, per se. The entire electrical system had been extensively modified with aftermarket additions and splices to both the yellow and green circuits. Still at a loss mentally how the bad R/R could have caused my headlight issues while the auto choke still worked fine. In short, I undid many of the yellow circuit mods and rewired it myself to match up exactly with the generic diagrams I found. If I understand the system in general, the white and yellow are the AC outputs from the battery charging (6 coil) circuit to the R/R with the half wave AC voltage off yellow supplying the auto choke and headlight circuit with half wave AC in order to reduce battery load. For such a simple system, it sure does get complicated in a hurry! My earlier assessment of yellow supplying excitation voltage to the windings was obviously wrong. This much I DO know. With all the things I have done, I now have a less powerful machine with a lower top end speed than when I first drove away with it. I reinstalled the muffler, repaired and reinstalled the stock air box, removed the FAIR system, replaced the stator assembly, CDI and R/R. I drove it home initially after purchase and was easily cruising at 40 and could hit 47-48 on flat terrain. Now, I only go above 40 if I am going downhill and then am lucky to hit 45. Its easy cruising speed is around 34-35. Still, I have managed to add 1200 to the odometer in the 6 weeks I have had it, where it only had 5800 when I got it. Heck, I am making day trips of 100 miles or more without taking along my entire carry-bag of tools.

Again, at this point, I am merely seeking knowledge expansion as opposed to repair info.

Where are we sitting on this thread? I am having similar lighting issues. I suspect they were never right from the day I got the thing. There are signs of much rewiring and, while technically sound, there's no way to know if it is wired correctly. The solder joints are solid and wrapped well, so this is not under suspicion. I have the G/W/Y with no on/off switch. Where I become confused is that I understand this to be AC power from the stator to the headlight circuit, but I have DC lamps. Here's my odd symptom. Upon initiual startup, everything seems to work normally. Then the entire headlight circuit fades out. If I engage the brake lever, the headlight circuit comes to life as long as I hold the brake lever. Additionally, when the turn signals are activated, similar thing, except the headlight circuit blinks with the turn signals. In either case, when these items are off, the headlight circuit dims out quite rapidly, but does not just go out. I have verified the wiring personally a number of times and can promise that the yellow stator wire supplies the headlight circuit, the auto choke, the R/R in parallel. I have taken the headlight hi/low out of the circuit as well. I currently have the headlight, the running lights, the tail light and the dash lights all running from the yellow stator wire in parallel. The main stator yellow has only 3 branches. One to the choke, one to the stator and one to the headlight circuit. I split the headlight circuit branch into parallel paths for each separate item on the headlight circuit as outlined. I am really beginning to think only one of 2 things can be wrong. Either someone did a partial conversion to the GYW stator setup and it needs to be stripped to the frame of wires and started over, or the R/R is bad. Obviously, one option is cheaper and easier, but I still don't understand how stator power coming to the headlight circuit has anything to do with the R/R being bad or not. My head is in circles here. 

On a separate note, when I read about the TS replacing the stator, my FIRST thought was woodruff key. I have had similar troubles. Mine started when the woodruff key initially went bad and I used Harbor freight replacements. Yes, plural! I have re keyed mine 3 times, finally getting an auto quality at the auto parts store and using an impact to set the nut. In my mind, if the stator has been removed at all and one runs for a short while and it quits, check the woodruff first. Just my 2 bits of experience!

Hey Lantern! A couple of quick thoughts. Your 2008 Jonway looks a lot like mine, but I have no idea what I actually have. The guy I bought it from knew nothing except he seemed certain it was a 2008 and had no paperwork for it. I have a PM in to Alley about how to use my numbers to see what I have. The previous owners jacked it up pretty good, but it runs well. With all the info here, I feel like I have a small block Chevy. By that I mean that there are so many people and so many scoots using the same or similar engines and parts are plentiful. Heck, I've learned enough about these 50's I am thinking about buying up tired or seemingly dead ones and fix 'em up for a small stipend. I did say there were 2 things, didn't I? I moved to NC about a year ago from Brighton MI and I have to tell you, I don't miss it a bit. Between the mess Jennifer Granholm made of the economy, the mess Kwami made of Detroit and all that friggin' snow, I am happy to be gone! I have thoroughly enjoyed BOTH of our snowfalls this year. Hope you get some riding weather soon!