Clinician
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 26, 2014 9:37:04 GMT -6
OK here`s where i`m at ,
Opened variator casing , no washer . tried to remove the cat , bogged like mad checked cdi , no pink wire . carb was already setup . Still runs like a bag of poo .
I`m thinking that it`s probably just how the bike is , rubbish , it`s still smoking like a mad thing , the more you ride it the worse the smoke gets . I`m going to check the petrol later incase the previous own had put premix in it due to the faulty oil pump but I dont think so. I`m definitely not impressed with it though . I`m going to try and get a de-restricted cdi .
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 26, 2014 2:29:07 GMT -6
Cheers alley , the vac is on a t with the peacock so that's easy enough, I'll try removing it all again today , yesterday when I tried it just bogged , but I didn't block the air box , bloody Chinese bikes , she's got a Suzuki ap50 scooter and that goes like a rocket , the only issue with it is the rust on it and the plastics are fubard . But it is a 1995 . That does 43 mph uphill standard .
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 25, 2014 17:04:26 GMT -6
Thanks guys , lots to think about there. Rob , the weird emissions thing , can I just remove the valve box that's at the end of that little pipe half way down the down pipe and put a plate in in place of it to seal it off ?? That was giving me loads of grief , that valve goes off to a box thing with a vac tube on it , which in turn has a wider breather pipe connected to it , if that pipe isn't connected to the air box the bike will bog as soon as you try and give it any throttle what so ever . I'll try and derestrict it tomorrow .
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 25, 2014 14:06:19 GMT -6
I've just checked all the cables and all of the adjusters are as closed as they can be.
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 25, 2014 13:56:16 GMT -6
Cheers ally I'll have a read , cheers
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 25, 2014 13:20:18 GMT -6
Ok , first I'll give you some background, I bought this as spars or repair. It had a 70c barrel and piston which I took out and put it back to 50cc , got it running and finally got round to insuring my daughter and getting her on the road . It's a 2008 btw.
Ok here's the issue. It ticked over sweet as a nut but as soon and you moved the throttle it died . There was a loose breather hose laying on top of the engine and I noticed that the place it should have been had snapped off . Repaired that and now it will at least accelerate . Now , the bloody this smokes like a train, and I mean bad , I've fitted a new oil pump as the old one was faulty (the cable holder had snapped off) , and , it's absolutely gutless . I'm not expecting it to break the speed record but it'll make 30 (mph) down hill and you are lucky to hit 15 up hill , 20 on the flat . There has to be something wrong here somewhere , it's a long time since I've worked on 2 stokers . Is this restricted ? Can it be de restricted to make it rideable , it's not rideable at all at the min what with the smoke and the lack of power . It's got a weird valve thing connected to the exhaust that goes to a breather pipe that's connect to a vac system , what's that ?
Any nay help would be very gratefully received .
cheers dave
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 25, 2014 10:15:39 GMT -6
All I can add is take a pillow to sit on 2100 miles ain't going to be comfortable on a small bike , how many miles are you planning on doing per day ?? You are also going to need to take a load of spares with you , you seriously don't want to get stranded out there, definitely get a puncture repair kit , spare bulbs , spark plug , all the stuff you think could go wrong, also try and plan the route via gas stations , if you drop the bike ( so easy to do after riding for hours and hours) and split your spare can you're gonna be knackered if the gas station is miles away . I've done a lot of long distance touring over the years and know from experience that small bikes just aren't designed for it so plan and prepare properly. We are planning a trip to Bosnia this year from the uk , about 2400 miles return trip , starting in dover , then Calais in France , then Luxembourg , then Germany , on to Slovenia, then Croatia , then Bosnia . Mighty hard work but , the experience is worth every mile , we will be doing it on 1200cc bikes though . Good luck bro !! Knackered I lived in Ipswich for 4 years, and loved it. I have done many a cross country, on my 1100 cc Shadow Sabre and my GL1200 Aspencade. Even on these larger bikes, it's a long day at 500 - 600 - 700 miles a day (Longest was 950 miles in 16 hours (Minneapolis to Denver) On a 150 it's gonna be tougher, not undoeable but tougher. One thing, YOU , personally, gotta be in top physical condition. the stress on the body will be overwhelming. Fat old people like me suffer greatly. Either way, God Bless you on your endeavor dave Yeah I totally agree . If you aren`t physically fit you are going to struggle . I`m about 45 miles from Ipswich (Norwich) . I thought someone might pick up on "knackered " lmao .
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 24, 2014 13:47:30 GMT -6
Aww to heck with it I'll stick with the dc wiring , much less Argo ..lol
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 23, 2014 8:14:05 GMT -6
Excellent , thanks again for all the help folks.
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 22, 2014 21:48:28 GMT -6
Eureka . I now have voltage from the yellow wire, the lighting circuit on the stator was faulty . I've replaced the stator with one from a yammy , and not I have voltage from the yellow. Can you tell me what to do with the the pink to stop bulbs blowing please mate , do I just join it to the yellow ?
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 22, 2014 3:52:35 GMT -6
Just a quick update , it appears that there is no voltage from the yellow or pink wires with the bike running , the pink is coming from a ballast resistor , so I assume there should be voltage coming from there , I will check that today to see if there is power going into the resistor , if not , the charging circuit is working ok so I'll just leave it as it is run the lights direct from the ignition and see if it flattens the battery , it shouldn't do if the bike is running.
ive narrowed the black down to brake light feed , it's all a bit , well Chinese really . Lol
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 22, 2014 3:31:01 GMT -6
All I can add is take a pillow to sit on 2100 miles ain't going to be comfortable on a small bike , how many miles are you planning on doing per day ?? You are also going to need to take a load of spares with you , you seriously don't want to get stranded out there, definitely get a puncture repair kit , spare bulbs , spark plug , all the stuff you think could go wrong, also try and plan the route via gas stations , if you drop the bike ( so easy to do after riding for hours and hours) and split your spare can you're gonna be knackered if the gas station is miles away . I've done a lot of long distance touring over the years and know from experience that small bikes just aren't designed for it so plan and prepare properly. We are planning a trip to Bosnia this year from the uk , about 2400 miles return trip , starting in dover , then Calais in France , then Luxembourg , then Germany , on to Slovenia, then Croatia , then Bosnia . Mighty hard work but , the experience is worth every mile , we will be doing it on 1200cc bikes though . Good luck bro !!
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 20, 2014 0:54:32 GMT -6
Take the air filter off the bike and when you crank it over stick your hand over the back of the carb . This will do 2 things , increase the fuel to air ratio and dump a load of fuel into the barrel , but not so much that it'll flood. Check that you have both a spark and compression first of course, but this is how I start all the bikes I've had sitting around a while that won't start and it works every time . Check that your choke (enriched I think you say in the states) is getting hot . If it's not getting hot it's not working , it works by getting hot and melting the wax in the top allowing the choke to close once the bike is warmed up . It won't stop it starting but it will make the bike run rough as a tramps arse if it's not . Is it 2 stroke or 4 stroke ??
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 20, 2014 0:37:41 GMT -6
It's not the plastic body you have to worry about fella , it's all the rest . I hate leaving any of my bikes out in the weather but some times it's inevitable , I only have room in the shed for one, within a day the brake discs are starting to rust , the screw heads are all starting to rust , there are water spots all over and it just looks a total mess. With a scooter , the rain hits the floor and bounces up under the plastic and before long it'll start to rot the metal . Especially if it's a Chinese bike . Keep it covered mate and make sure you cover it properly too !!
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Post by fj12rider on Mar 19, 2014 15:38:17 GMT -6
Thanks mate that makes better sense I'll re wire it tomorrow . Using the above , to be honest if I can't get it working like that then I'll just go back to what I have above as it all works and with the engine running it shouldn't kill the battery , but will try and get it right . Any chance you could let me have a little diagram to shout me how if wire that please . The internal of the switch has 2 diagonal jumpers they go to the top 2 rows as shown in my pic, and the one along the bottom jumps two at a time horizontally if that makes sense .
Cheers for your helps guys. Dave
edit : after reading your post again , there is no pass button on the scooter , I know what you mean though as I have one on my yammy fj1200 , pressing it gives you hi and lo on at the same time, but like I say , the is no pass button on the scooter , the light switch is , off / side lights / main lights according to the symbols . I think I'll stick with what I have , except I'll swap to using the yellow feed for the head/tail lights . I have no idea about the pink still , will run the bike tomorrow and check the voltage . Pink def isn't high beam , if I put power to it nothing lights . The blue /white is the feed to the hi/lo beam switch for sure .
thanks again .
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