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Like you stated about the vacuum lines. If one is cut and not connected to anything make sure it is plugged. But that doesn't make sense with the 20 minute wait, it would run bad all the time.

Make sure there is a vacuum line to the fuel tank valve (also referred to as the pump) if this is missing it could explain why the 20 minute wait for it to start if the valve is just a slow drip down the line. It is refilling the carb bowl.

You can easily test the fuel valve by disconnecting the fuel supply line to the carb and then sucking on the vacuum line. If there is a good gravity flow of fuel, then all is ok. If you have fuel in the vacuum line, that os bad, needs either to remove the valve or replace. No flow is also the obvious, remove or replace.

Well with the stock CDI, honestly there is no noticeable changes. It runs and performs the same for all real purposes. Still has a RPM limiter at the same spot that the blue one does. Basically found out not to waste time or money on that one from all things I can tell.

I live in the middle of no where and like to ride as fast as possible on country roads, but also at the same time, because of my technical background, can appreciate a limiter on a CDI so there is a small safety net so the engine is not over rev'ed. Just at first didn't think that the aftermarket "performance" CDI's had them as well. Don't worry there is village and city driving in there too, just not as much.

Only way to go faster is change gearing or variator and clutch components. At least with a little bigger displacement there is better get up and go from a stop, reach traffic speed quicker in town and also not lug as hard on hills.

So you convinced me to reinstall the stock cdi. In total curiosity I took the blue one apart to see why they are bad, first off they are filled with sand once you get the resin plug out. Sand is an insulator and keeps heat in. Totally killing the reason for the heat sink aluminum. Then found bad cold solder joints where the wires meet the board, they all just popped off the solder tabs. Buyer beware. It is repairable but why should I fix a new part I installed 10 minutes ago?

By the way when we did the new coil originally the connections were loose and I did crimp them tighter at that time. Loose connections are a killer for troubleshooting on big rigs where I work.

So I have installed the 90. The sputtering at WOT is cured. Just now have the issue where it intermittently will skip out while driving now. At WOT going down the road it seems like it loses spark or fuel then regains power again. Just like if the key was shut off. I have the same issue with the other scooter in the garage. Both run, idle and accelerate fine, just the miss at WOT while driving. Most of the time it is fine. Just sporatically while driving. Have not been able to pinpoint a good way to duplicate it.

BASHAN,
Both valve lash is at .004 and was double checked again when I was still having issues.

ALLEYOOP,
I have tried putting it all the way down and it was not good just stumbled in midrange and would not get past the sputtering no matter how i did the throttle position other then backed all the way off. I could go to the 100 and move the clip all the way to the top and see if it makes a difference if it makes a 1-2 change in effective size.

CYBORG,
I could do the same by leaving gas cap off. We can try that tomorrow .

Stupid thing about all the performance parts but stock intake and exhaust is I have a second one I did basically same thing to. That one gets up and goes no sputtering on the way to WOT and full rpm. Once there its great for a solid mile or two. Then its like someone shuts off the key and turns it back on. So far only when hot and WOT. May meed to get some jets in between 90 and 100 and play with it more. That one has a carb slide where the needle goes of 17mm with accel pump. The current one in this thread is a 20mm slide no accel pump.