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Small update:

I mocked up the locations of the radiator and the pump. The pump is going to be quite easy to mount. The radiator, however, is another story.




The rear mud flap, reflector, airbox, fuel line, filter, shut-off valve, and frame cross-member are all in the way. I can cut away the parts of the rear mud flap that are in the way, as you can see here:



I can route the fuel line coming from the tank down under the rear part of the seat and the frame cross-member. I then realized that if I removed the stock airbox and installed a pod filter I have:



I would have tons of room right where I need it. Here you can see the airbox removed, my fuel lines, and the radiator mocked up:




I am trying to keep my scooter as quiet as possible, that is the reason I have the stock airbox and muffler still installed. Also, I have read that these carburetors like some distance between where the air is sucked in and where the assembly is attached to the carb. However, it will be so much easier to mount the radiator with it out that I may just have to live with the noise and tune the carb to the best of my abilities.

If you look here:



you can see that the upper radiator barb is right next to the frame, and that is where I need to put the 4-way fitting for the temp probe and bleeder valve. I could zip-tie the fitting to the frame (I do believe that zip-ties rival duck tape in usefulness) and put some foam between the fitting and the frame so they don't rub on each other. I could also drill a few holes in the bucket seat and zip-tie it there, but I'm not sure what at what temperature the plastic will start to melt and it is a structural, load-bearing part. Also, I would like to eventually cut the bucket part out and make a some metal framework to attach the seat to the scooter frame.

Mounting the radiator in place is going to be a bit tricky, but in the end I think it is doable. In the picture above, you can see that there is a tab on the scooter frame where the petcock usually is; I can bend a piece of metal from there to the back of the radiator and screw or zip-tie it to the small holes you see at the end of the radiator.

I can do something similar here:



with the vacant bolt hole to the left and the bottom of the radiator and well as here:



with the bole hole just behind the shock mount and the bottom of the radiator. Holding the top right of the radiator is going to be a little more involved;



I think I will make something that will be held by the bolt you see in the upper-middle of the picture and go down to the top right of the radiator.

Here is all the mounting hardware I have at hand, plus some scrap metal not shown:



The metal wire is a last-ditch resort; I would rather use things like the metal strips.

Honestly, I thought the beads were a bit gimmicky. Also, I'm pretty sure I have inner tubes.

Not too much has happened in the past few days as far as the scooter goes; I made my mother some lasagna, and have been helping her with her new laptop.

Today, I installed the reed switch onto the speedo puck and glued a magnet to the front wheel.



Now I'm going to (if I don't get distracted again and start daydreaming about cheese-injected sausages) model and make cones for the machined rod I am going to use for the wheel balancer and hopefully balance at least the front wheel.

I SWEAR I am going to get to mounting the cooling loop soon. It seems like I am jumping around all over the place with micro-projects and not getting to the heart of why I made this thread in the first place.

Oh man fleet farm... that name brings back memories. I used to live in a state that had those stores.

I do have a tractor supply near by, they don't sell lincoln welders, but they do have this. Menards has this, sears has this and this, home depot has this, this, this, and this. So it seems if I want a "brand name" welder, I'm going to have to pay at least $50 more.

My budget is about $170, perhaps a little more.

The chinese welder might be repairable.

Is it possible to retrofit a flux welder for use with gas or does it have to be designed for use with gas from the get-go?

I've been toying with the idea to add some kind of filtration to this setup; I could hollow out an aluminum shell similar in shape to the check valve I have and add some very fine metal mesh - 100 microns or less, or I could use a filter intended for fuel that doesn't have any or too many plastic parts that would melt; perhaps something like those visu-filters that have brass elements in them. Let me see if I can find a pic of one...


I would avoid any that use plastic mesh or paper filters - I have a feeling those would either melt or clog and severely limit flow respectively.

Yeah, I was testing the current draw of the pump to see how much if any headroom I will have with it installed and running. I think I can safely draw up to about 2.5 maybe 3 amps before charging voltage takes a dive.

On a side note and a wee bit off topic; the pump consumes the same amount of power pumping oil as it does running dry. Just a stray tidbit of info I had.

I would gladly model Cyborg's head but I am no good at modeling organic things, only mechanical parts.

Ok, thanks for the reply. Here is the welder I was looking at on ebay.

I do have an exhaust gasket... kinda. The first time I took off the exhaust from the scoot I noticed the header flange wasn't flat at all. If you held a flat edge against one bolt hole, there would be about a 1/4 inch clearance between the other bolt hole and the flat edge. I reused the old metal and organic material gasket plus some high temp copper silicone sealant. I could try and bend the flange back to being close to straight, but I'm afraid I'll crack or break the welds joining the flange to the pipe. I do have a tiny little 80 amp stick welder, but have almost no experience welding, plus I'm pretty sure that 80 amps isn't enough for the thick flange.

Yes, I am going to run the cooler with a pump.

Thank you for the compliment on my cat. I do love her, even though she bites my nose in the morning and meows for hours in the middle of the night when she wants to be let inside.

Yesterday I realized that the reed switch holder I made for my bicycle speedo wasn't going to work, so I designed and made a new one that will straddle the speedo puck and hopefully stay put.






I tried to record some of the printing, but my camera's batteries died right after the first layer.

I also noticed that my scooters wheels won't fit on the metal rod that came with the wheel balancer. I had some precision ground rods that I salvaged from taking apart printers lying around and found one that will work. The rod is MUCH smoother than the one that came with the balancer. I had to grind away a bit of material from between the bearings so the rod won't touch the bearing holders.



Now I just need to design and make some cones sized for that rod so I can balance my wheels.

It did rain all last night and is still drizzling outside so no riding today, but I might try and figure out how I'm going to mount the radiator.

Later dudes.