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Post by glavey on Jun 24, 2014 12:24:49 GMT -6
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jun 23, 2014 20:08:42 GMT -6
Thank you for that link, it explained quite a bit to me.
As you said; testing resistance seems to be pointless now, but what about basic continuity; specifically the way my old R/R had no continuity between any of the pins and the exterior metal case and the new one seems to have the case grounded?
One interesting thing about the R/R from scrappy; it has a clearish slightly squishy potting on the bottom so you can see one side of the pcb and the components on it. Most of the soldering is quite good although the joints near the pins are a little... unsavory. I'll take a picture tomorrow.
Also, is there a current pdf/text/anything documenting 50cc/150cc chinese scoots?
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Post by glavey on Jun 23, 2014 16:30:02 GMT -6
I got a new Regulator/Rectifier from scrappydog and since I just drank an energy drink, I couldn't resist doing some testing on the old and new R/R, scooter wiring, and charging/lighting coils in the stator. I used this service manual's specs to test everything. The charging coil on the stator measured 0.8 ohms, spec is 0.2-1.2 ohms. Lighting coil measured 0.6 ohms, spec is 0.1-1.0 ohms. In the service manual, the way the wires were connected were different than what I observed on my scoot; the yellow and red wires were switched. Perhaps this is what killed my old R/R (and battery). Below are the measurements I took using the manual and my observed connections.  Here are the manual specs:  I'm not quite sure what to make of all of this. All of the values measured from terminal-to-terminal are way more than what the manual says and there is continuity between wires that shouldn't have it and vice versa. The old R/R didn't have any continuity to the outer metal case and the new one does. Honestly I'm a little scared to connect this R/R to my scoot for fear of the battery going boom or shorting out something that I can't afford to replace. Can someone else look at the wires coming from their R/R and tell me if they are the same as the manual or like I observed, or even something different still? I should mention now that my scoot is a 2011 taotao atm50-a1 with a 1p39qmb. |
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Post by glavey on Jun 20, 2014 10:33:35 GMT -6
I just did a few tests with a multimeter and a 55w headlight connected to my scoot. With the scooter off battery voltage was 12.92. With the scoot on and having the brake lights and turn signals on, the lowest reading I got was 12.56. With the scoot running at idle without the headlight on the voltage at the battery was 16.2. Peak voltage w/o headlight at the battery was 17.34. AC voltage measured at the headlight connector was 17.9 at idle.
Those seem way too high for me. I'm assuming I need a new rectifier/regulator, correct?
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Post by glavey on Jun 16, 2014 11:31:12 GMT -6
I will do that tomorrow, I have some around-the-house work to do today.
I was just thinking; could it be the accelerator pump causing the bogging seeing as how it only happens when I quickly blip the throttle?
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Post by glavey on Jun 16, 2014 8:17:07 GMT -6
Is a 72cc bbk enough to warrant moving to a colder plug i.e. ch8hsa?
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Post by glavey on Jun 15, 2014 15:54:42 GMT -6
Look at the top of each one your looking only at the defuser part of the jets. The size of the hole going through the whole jet determines the amount of fuel flow. Alleyoop Ah that explains it. I feel like a fool now... I cleaned the carb and all the jets, did a valve adjustment, set the intake to .002 exhaust to .003; no real improvement. I raised the needle one notch and went for a test ride; slight improvement, still a bit sluggish. Raised the needle another notch, more improvement. Low to mid-range power no longer sluggish. However a new symptom has appeared. When at idle, if I blip the throttle quickly the engine stutters and bogs, the is also a distinct "vraVROOM" sound; if I slowly raise the throttle and let it go the engine rpms slowly drop to idle. |
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Post by glavey on Jun 14, 2014 15:54:16 GMT -6
Here is a picture of the pilot jets. From left to right; 30, 34, 35. I really can't see a difference between the 30 and 34 jet.
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Post by glavey on Jun 14, 2014 10:09:43 GMT -6
It doesn't kill it but it idles extremely low; about 900 rpm.
Edit: I found a video on youtube that demonstrates exactly what is happening with my scooter, around 1:20 to 1:26.
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Post by glavey on Jun 13, 2014 18:47:19 GMT -6
I have a 2011 taotao atm50 with a 72cc bbk. The scooter came from the factory with what was labeled/stamped as a 30 pilot jet and a "secret 60" cylinder/piston. When I had the 60cc cylinder/piston installed, the scooter idled fine and off-idle to mid-range was great.
After I installed the bbk, the same 30 pilot jet now seems... too rich? I seem to have some signs of an overly rich mixture; (slightly) black exhaust, a quick blip of the throttle and the engine bogs and/or dies.
I bought a new carb from scrappydogscooters because I thought perhaps the old stock one had poorly machined internal passages. The new carb came with what was stamped as a 34 pilot jet, but seemed incredibly similar to the 30. I had a 35 pilot jet around and it looks much bigger than either of the supposed 30 or 34 jets.
I tried the 34 jet in the new carb and the off-idle problem was ever-so-slightly improved. I can tune the air/fuel screw and get the highest idle, but when I give the throttle a quick stab, the speed drops below the idle speed and bogs and/or dies.
Now my thinking is that since the 30 jet with a 60cc cylinder was ok, the same jet with an increased volume to fill would be lean, and not rich. Am I thinking wrong?
Also, I should note that I haven't adjusted the needle's height in the new carb, checked/adjusted the valves, or checked the spark plug yet. I can do that tomorrow; today's weather change combined with being around gas and exhaust fumes has given me a migraine.
Thanks in advance.
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