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Yeah, I was trying to save a few dollars. I could have sworn I had a gear puller in my toolbox, but apparently I don't and it seems that a puller specifically for this engine might be cheaper.

I hate buying tools so focused on one individual use, like the variator holder I bought a while ago, but damn they come in handy when you need them, like a few moments ago when I used it to hold the crankshaft in place so I could remove the flywheel nut.

I've been avoiding ebay and trying to go with actual stores like partsforscooters, mainelyscooters, and scrappydogdscooters; but if I did that with my budget right now I could only afford a flywheel puller OR a stator OR another regulator but no combination thereof. I'll see what I can find on ebay...

Will I need a flywheel puller to remove the magneto?

More test results (tested as per bashans instructions):

Without R/R: yellow - 24v; white - 22v
With R/R: yellow - 11.9v; white - 17.1v

Ah ok. Thanks bash. Yeah, I disconnected the R/R entirely and probed the voltages from the connector that goes to the R/R. I'm just a little worried about pulling out the pins from the connector; seeing as how cheap the metal is I might break what ever tab/friction device they use to keep the pin in the connector.

Thanks for the link guitarman! When (if) I have spare money I'll look into buying a copy.

Here are the results from testing the stator with and without the R/R:

Without the R/R connected, ac voltage between the yellow wire and ground was 58 volts, between the white wire and ground was 55 volts.

With the R/R connected, ac voltage between the yellow wire and ground was 11.9 volts, between the white wire and ground was 17.6 volts.

I messaged john at nyc and linked him to this thread; we'll see what he says.

Yes, that is what I mean. I can lift each side of the bars; when I lift one side the other goes down and vice versa. I'll see if I can get a picture/video later today to better explain what I mean.

Another update: Dammit. I got the new R/R hooked up along with the newly re-crimped battery-to-starter solenoid and battery ground-to-engine ground cables also with a new I'm guessing 10 gauge battery ground-to-frame cable.

Before I started the scoot I measured the resistance between various exposed metal frame bits, engine parts, and the R/R and all of them were at or near 0.3 ohms, which is what my multimeter zeros to with leads touching.

I started the scoot and checked the dc voltage at the battery 13.5 and climbing. 13.9... 14.2... 14.5... 14.7 (at this point I was screaming internally STAY THERE!!)... 14.9... 15.2 (Ah crap)... 15.5... 15.9. That's the highest it will go with full throttle and minimal running lights. On the AC side, things were much better. Measured at the headlight; the voltages never got above 11.9 with WOT.

One thing I did notice was that when I had the headlight, brake light, and turn signals all on, the battery voltage peaked at 15.1. I should mention now that I have led tail and brake lights, removed the stock headlight and headlight housing and have a 55w h3 headlight with an on/off switch. My thinking is that these R/R's could have been made to keep the voltage at 14.7 with all of the stock incandescent lights always on.

If my understanding of how the R/R works is correct, it regulates the voltages by feeding only what it is designed to feed to the respective wires and convert the rest to heat, thus the need for the heatsink fins on the metal case.

What if I just wired a 5/10/20/30 watt resistor into the scoot to bring the voltage down to where it should be?