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I was going to order it online if I couldn't find it at a nearby store; I was trying to avoid a $5 shipping fee on a $3 item.

It appears that last link offers free shipping. I'll order one right now.

I was only able to get to o'reillys auto and autozone today; too much traffic and too many pedestrians out for the fireworks show. Neither store had a 35w bulb. Assuming the roads are less congested tomorrow, even though it will be a weekend, I will look at the other stores. I have high hopes for one store because it specializes in automotive accessories and my headlight bulbs are mainly used in fog/driving lights.

Ok, I think John and I have this sorted out. Now, I am no where near as knowledgeable as John is, but I do build/troubleshoot/repair computers and screw around with arduinos, so I will try my best to explain what the problem and final solution was. If I make a mistake somewhere or say something that is plainly wrong I apologize and hope that either Rich or John will correct me.

I need to (and should have) state that I have LED tail lights, an aftermarket headlight housing for h3 bulbs with a 55w bulb in it and a switch that completely turns off the headlight.

The main problem was that with the LED tail lights were drawing much fewer watts and thus a lower load than what the original incandescent tail lights were. This was causing the charging voltage to be much higher than it should have been.

With John's help I load balanced the charging and lighting system. In the end the working setup was a few small-ish incandescent lights hooked up in addition to the LED tail lights, and the headlight temporarily replaced with a few bulbs I had laying around daisy-chained to make a 35w load similar to what the stock headlight would draw. Voltage at the battery with the makeshift headlight on was 14.7v DC. Right on the money.

John asked me to replace the headlight with a 35w one to confirm that solved the problem. I didn't have a 35w h3, only 55w ones. I shopped around at all the department stores and radioshack but none of them carry 35w h3's. Tomorrow I will look at all the automotive stores like advance auto/autozone/carquest/oreilly's/local family owned car shops. If they don't have them I'll just order them from ebay. I promise I will update this thread when I get the 35w bulb.

It seems from this experience that these scooters and their stators and R/R's are meant for a very specific load to be put on them to achieve the correct battery charging voltage. I thought they were more like a pc power supply; adjust the output to match the demand and keep the voltage at a certain level.

Anyway, THANK YOU EVERYONE!!! You have saved me from buying more regulators, stators, wiring harnesses and what ever else I might have thought was wrong.

I got the flywheel puller today, it worked like a charm. I'm glad I read somewhere you should lightly hit the end with a hammer once inner bolt is tight against the crankshaft. Less than a minute and it was off.

Should I use locktite on the bolts that hold the stator and/or the nut for the flywheel?

Here's a few pics of the stator, not that it matters much.







It looks like the trigger magnet on the flywheel was slightly hitting the pickup at one time, but I can fit a few pieces of paper between them now so I don't think it is happening anymore.





I'll try and talk to john tomorrow.

The R/R that came with my scoot is stamped "XFT1B01B 110220". Does FLP denote something like floating ground?

No, I haven't gotten a response from John. I filled out the form on the "contact" page of nycscooterparts.com. Is that the right way to get ahold of him, or should I have used the aol email address listed on the contact page?

More test results!

All tests were at about 6k rpm except for the battery test; I got up to about 4k rpm.

With the multimeter probes at the disconnected stator pigatil:
Yellow: 45v AC White: 57v AC

Probes at the connected R/R:
Yellow: 14.12v AC White: 18.27v AC

Probes at the battery:
15.28v DC

Ok. The package is due by Wednesday so I should have pics by then.

This whole situation really makes me wish I knew enough about electronics to design and build a R/R myself.