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Post by Alleyoop on Oct 18, 2014 20:46:43 GMT -6
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2008 BMS ZHNG V9 evo ZX 150 T-F
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 21:07:21 GMT -6
Thank you sir.
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Post by Bashan on Oct 18, 2014 21:48:43 GMT -6
Unhook the red/brown wire from the horn. Set your multi to continuity. Put a probe in the red/brown wire and ground the other probe. If you don't get continuity when you hit the button the button is bad. Unhook the other wire from the horn and set your multi to DC volts. Put one probe in the horn source and ground the other. Turn on the key and you should get battery voltage. If not, there's a problem with the wires supplying the horn. If both of the previous are normal the horn is bad.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 23:21:08 GMT -6
Unhook the red/brown wire from the horn. Set your multi to continuity. Put a probe in the red/brown wire and ground the other probe. If you don't get continuity when you hit the button the button is bad. Unhook the other wire from the horn and set your multi to DC volts. Put one probe in the horn source and ground the other. Turn on the key and you should get battery voltage. If not, there's a problem with the wires supplying the horn. If both of the previous are normal the horn is bad. I will have to revisit this in the morning when I am not so tired. I have also been working on my John Deere lawn mower trying to figure out why it suddenly decided not to fire up.
I went out to test the horn. I have two wires, purple and black and both are hard soldiered to the switch. In an effort to try and test without de-soldiering the wires, I tested continuity thru the switch by probing both wires (red probe to purple and black probe to the black wire) at the same time. I got tone when I pushed the switch but not otherwise. I really don't know if that was a valid test or not but it would seem to indicate the switch worked in connecting the wires when pushed. I did not get tone when I touched one probe to the horn wire and the other to ground, pushing the horn button or not. Could be that I did not probe to a clean ground but I will re-try in the morning.
I also did not notice any DC voltage change when I turned on the key and probed a switch wire while grounding the other probe. That said, it is after midnight and I better retest in the morning.
Thank you.
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Post by Guitarman on Oct 19, 2014 1:23:39 GMT -6
Or you can go to this site and find the bike closest to yours and click on it. That will take you to a page of parts for that style of bike. Look at the lock sets. Ignition comes with them. IGNORE the names the bikes are labeled with. Names change daily for these things. ScooterParts4Less
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Post by Bashan on Oct 19, 2014 8:09:41 GMT -6
That's odd, the horn button provides a ground for the horn when it's pushed. Yours may be wired a little differently like the one on the left. In that case one wire on the horn would have 12v DC with the key on and the button pushed. In the one on the right the supply wire would be 12v DC with the key on and you wouldn't have to push the button. I think when you tested for continuity without unhooking the wires you tested through the horn. Still, one of those wires should show 12v DC with just the key, or the key and button. The wire colors really don't matter, there's a lot of variation. If you have an alarm that may be complicating things.
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Post by Alleyoop on Oct 19, 2014 10:30:33 GMT -6
Yea it seems it is working like the brake lights push the button and it passes the voltage to the other wire. Alleyoop
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Post by bugler on Oct 19, 2014 11:05:23 GMT -6
Unhook the red/brown wire from the horn. Set your multi to continuity. Put a probe in the red/brown wire and ground the other probe. If you don't get continuity when you hit the button the button is bad. Unhook the other wire from the horn and set your multi to DC volts. Put one probe in the horn source and ground the other. Turn on the key and you should get battery voltage. If not, there's a problem with the wires supplying the horn. If both of the previous are normal the horn is bad. Okay. I have a different story to tell today. I had recently purchased my multi-meter. I also purchased an additional accessory pack of connectors. Part of my testing is done with the black probe that came with the meter. Other parts of the testing is done with an black probe with an alligator clip that I attach to things when testing to ground. I just realized that at some point, the alligator clip had become detached from the line, but still inside the rubber boot. I took the boot off and reconnected the clip to the line. The outcome is more valid test results.
Again, I have a purple and black going to the horn switch. In DC voltage mode, (key on) probe grounded to black, the black switch wire shows about 13 volts. The purple has no voltage. In regards to continuity. Still with one probe grounded, the black switch wire has tone without pushing the horn switch. The probing to purple produces tone when the switch is pushed.
I think this indicates that the horn itself is bad. I unplugged the horn and put the probes on the wires that originally plugged into the horn. In DC voltage, I had 11 volts with the horn button pushed. I then put two wires on the horn and connected those directly to the battery. No sound.
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Post by Alleyoop on Oct 19, 2014 13:43:45 GMT -6
Yep, bad horn Alleyoop
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Post by Guitarman on Oct 19, 2014 17:08:31 GMT -6
Don't replace with a stock horn. Put one in there that people can actually hear. Extra LOUD horn
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