Troubleshooting my BMS ZHNG V9 evo ZX 150 T-F By bugler (Read 5,084 times)

[bugler]

Hello.

I have a 2008 BMS ZHNG V9 evo ZX 150 T-F , at least that is the information on the bike and my title.  The actual owner's manual is generic and has no make or model specified.

I purchased the bike used and rode it pretty consistently until 1.5 years ago when I began having a mechanical issue.  It has sat since that time.  The bike came with a remote start which I never figured I would use but when the bike began messing up, I began using the remote.

One of the wires running to the positive battery terminal has a fuse holder immediately before the battery. That fuse began blowing regularly when I put the key in the ignition and turned the key.  I redid the connector on that wire at the battery and it seemed to slow that problem but it still existed at times.  I originally presumed that I had a short in the ignition switch but who knows.  I never could figure out how to get the protective shroud off the bike, covering the ignition, without fear I was going to break it.

I finally began starting the bike with the remote control starter and was able to bypass the blown fuse issue.  However, after several months, I began having another issue.  I would be riding for about two miles and the bike would suddenly turn off.  While the bike was still rolling, I was able to reach into my pocket, hit the remote and it would immediately restart and I continued on.  This would happen consistently about every two miles.  Finally, I gave up on the bike and it has been parked in my garage for the past 1.5 years.

It is a beautiful scooter and I would like to get it going again.  Although I had a battery tender on the battery, it still seemed to drain down or go bad.  Last week, I was able to get it started using the boost button on the larger battery charger.  I rode the bike in my neighborhood but only for a short distance since I did not want to try to restart it had it died away from my house.

Your input would be greatly appreciated, especially on how I can take off the shroud to access the ignition switch, just so I can get started.  From the owner's manual, it appears there may also be a fuse panel or something under the shroud as well.  I just need to get that damn thing off so I can start looking for a short.

Thank you in advance.

[rks]

Your scoot is a looker......as you can see from my avatar, I have pretty much the same scooter, but dressed down a bit. It did come with a remote start system in place, but I removed it...along with the sound system, anti theft alarm, and all of the emissions paraphernalia, before I even put the acid in the battery.

I had mine stripped to the frame just once, and that was 2 and a half years ago....you will probably have to remove the front plastics ( start with the chrome piece that has 1 big screw in the center), then just release the locking tabs along the edges to remove panel. If you can't get to the ignition switch through there, then go ahesd and remove the rest of the front piece. Seems I had to remove the rocker panels too....and there are 3 or 4 screws in the bottom, (behind the front wheel) It is not a 15 or 20 minute job....hunt down all the screws....be careful with the plastic tabs.

Glad I removed all of that stuff right after delivery.....scooter has been totally reliable so far....no breakdowns or other nasty surprises....5,500 miles and counting

[Guitarman]

Sounds like you have a bad Rectifier/Regulator and the remote was just a bypass. And the remote is only supposed to let you get it started, not drive off with it. That's why it dies every 2 miles or so.

Get yerself a nice big Poulan chainmaster 600 power saw and rip that puppy open. Lets see what kind of damage we can do in there while fixing a minor issue.

Get your multimeter out and go to the library section of this site and get the latest edition of the GY6 scooter manual and turn (click actually) to the pages where you test your R/R and Stator. Then give us the results and we will be able to advise you further...

Chainsaw heaven! VROOOOOMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!

[Guitarman]

Oh by the way,
If it turns out you need an R/R, I have one I'll sell you cheap. I don't need it anymore. It's new.

[bugler]

Oct 13, 2014 20:58:08 GMT -6 Guitarman said:

Sounds like you have a bad Rectifier/Regulator and the remote was just a bypass. .

Get your multimeter out and go to the library section of this site and get the latest edition of the GY6 scooter manual and turn (click actually) to the pages where you test your R/R and Stator.

Thanks. I had no idea that the GY6 manual was applicable to my bike.

[Guitarman]

It's a very generic manual because the manufacturers fail to put one out on their own. So, ScooterDoc provides. If it's not exact, then use a little common sense (not common cents, although these dayz...) and find your own application of it to your bike.

[bugler]

Thanks. I will try to check it tomorrow evening. I am looking forward to becoming familiar with my new Extech EX330 autoranging multi meter. I purchased it recently.

[Bashan]

Yes, your bike is a GY6. The manuals will apply to you as Andy pointed out, use your head, there's variation from the book. You need to lose the security system and the remote but it's more complicated than a simple extraction. There's wires to be jumped and I'll see if Alley or Jack can look at this. If your fuse keeps blowing after removing the alarm you probably have a bad ignition switch and I can help you with that. If your bike has been parked that long you need to clean your carb or buy a new one. You also need to set your valve gaps. You may also have some screws on the inside of the front cowling that need to come out and be careful with the tabs, they can break off.

[bugler]

Thank you guys. I am still exploring the scooter trying to find what I need to find. Stuff is not as easy to locate as on my 750 Honda. I need to buy a battery. I had it on the charger today and it did not charge. I tested the voltage and it was 12.6 for a few seconds and then dropped to 3.6 and stayed there. I did not get much done as I live in Kansas City and I got busying watching the Royals.

I appreciate the help and guidance.

[Bashan]

Most of those tiles floating by at the top of the site sell parts. When you order use your engine number on the front lower left case. It will say something like QMJ 157.

[Guitarman]

Oct 14, 2014 21:25:23 GMT -6 bugler said:

Stuff is not as easy to locate as on my 750 Honda.

Yeah Baby!  Proud owner of a stolen '99 Nighthawk 750 right here.  (I paid so little I might as well have stolen it.) 

I totally hear you on the easy access on your Honda.  But once you get all those silly plastic body parts off, you'll be surprised how simple they are to work on. 

[bugler]

Okay. I have a new battery in and the bike starts right up with the remote but blows the fuse when I try to use the key. I have the front access panel off allowing me access to the rectifier. If I take the alarm fuse out then I cannot start the bike. I will start testing the rectifier tomorrow night with my multi-meter.

[Bashan]

You should check your ignition switch. There's a tutorial on that under electrical in the Library. There's also a tutorial by Alley on removing the alarm. Yes, it would be a good idea to check your voltages on the R/R also. If it's not regulating the voltages it could blow a fuse.

[cyborg]

it may be as simple as a pinched and grounded wire,,,chase the wires down,,, the wire that energizes the solinoid may have rubbed thru the insulation,,,

[bugler]

I was finally able to get some testing in. My R/R has the six wire bundle going into it, 3 yellow, red, black and ground. When I did the AC voltage test probing two yellow wires at a time, I had 96 AC volts when reviving the engine. I then tested for continuity between the yellow wires and had tone. Next tested for continuity between the yellow and the ground and fortunately did not have tone there. I then switched to DC voltage, plugged the wire harness back into the R/R and had 14.6v at the + and - battery terminals with RPMS.

If I understand the testing procedures this means my stator and R/R are working as normal. I did not test the diodes in the R/R as those prongs were not too easy to access for testing with the R/R still installed. However, since my battery does not normally drain out, I suspect my diodes are okay.

I still suspect the issue is the ignition switch. If I leave the key out of the ignition but switch power on with the alarm remote, I can easily start the bike by squeezing the brake and pushing the start button. That would seem (at least in my limited understanding) that the solenoid is working okay. However, if I put the key in the ignition and turn the key, it immediately blows the fuse at the battery box.