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2008 BMS ZHNG V9 evo ZX 150 T-F
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Post by bugler on Nov 1, 2014 12:49:50 GMT -6
I was able to pry the lower side panel open enough at the bottom to get my wrist in with some vice grips. After snuggling the grips around the key cylinder I tried turning the key, and used enough force to actually bend/twist the ignition key itself. The cable still would not release the lock despite the fact the cylinder not turning externally. I was able to later straighten the key but the lock is still locked.
I tried a few times to get the metal clip off the side of the cylinder but as I am uncertain if that will really benefit me regarding the release cable, I did not give it a great effort yet.
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Post by bugler on Nov 1, 2014 5:50:15 GMT -6
When I try to unlock the seat, the outer lock cylinder turns as well (about 90 degrees). As a result, the key does not reach the full unlock position. I inserted powered graphite into the lock to ensure I have no sticking issues there. Just need a way to help secure the other locking ring so I can finish the unlock process. Once it is open, I should be able to tighten the rest of the mechanism. In normal operation, the seat unlocks from the side but raises from the rear.
Any thoughts? Thank you.
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Clinician
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2008 BMS ZHNG V9 evo ZX 150 T-F
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Post by bugler on Oct 19, 2014 11:05:23 GMT -6
Unhook the red/brown wire from the horn. Set your multi to continuity. Put a probe in the red/brown wire and ground the other probe. If you don't get continuity when you hit the button the button is bad. Unhook the other wire from the horn and set your multi to DC volts. Put one probe in the horn source and ground the other. Turn on the key and you should get battery voltage. If not, there's a problem with the wires supplying the horn. If both of the previous are normal the horn is bad. Okay. I have a different story to tell today. I had recently purchased my multi-meter. I also purchased an additional accessory pack of connectors. Part of my testing is done with the black probe that came with the meter. Other parts of the testing is done with an black probe with an alligator clip that I attach to things when testing to ground. I just realized that at some point, the alligator clip had become detached from the line, but still inside the rubber boot. I took the boot off and reconnected the clip to the line. The outcome is more valid test results.
Again, I have a purple and black going to the horn switch. In DC voltage mode, (key on) probe grounded to black, the black switch wire shows about 13 volts. The purple has no voltage. In regards to continuity. Still with one probe grounded, the black switch wire has tone without pushing the horn switch. The probing to purple produces tone when the switch is pushed.
I think this indicates that the horn itself is bad. I unplugged the horn and put the probes on the wires that originally plugged into the horn. In DC voltage, I had 11 volts with the horn button pushed. I then put two wires on the horn and connected those directly to the battery. No sound.
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Clinician
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2008 BMS ZHNG V9 evo ZX 150 T-F
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 23:21:08 GMT -6
Unhook the red/brown wire from the horn. Set your multi to continuity. Put a probe in the red/brown wire and ground the other probe. If you don't get continuity when you hit the button the button is bad. Unhook the other wire from the horn and set your multi to DC volts. Put one probe in the horn source and ground the other. Turn on the key and you should get battery voltage. If not, there's a problem with the wires supplying the horn. If both of the previous are normal the horn is bad. I will have to revisit this in the morning when I am not so tired. I have also been working on my John Deere lawn mower trying to figure out why it suddenly decided not to fire up.
I went out to test the horn. I have two wires, purple and black and both are hard soldiered to the switch. In an effort to try and test without de-soldiering the wires, I tested continuity thru the switch by probing both wires (red probe to purple and black probe to the black wire) at the same time. I got tone when I pushed the switch but not otherwise. I really don't know if that was a valid test or not but it would seem to indicate the switch worked in connecting the wires when pushed. I did not get tone when I touched one probe to the horn wire and the other to ground, pushing the horn button or not. Could be that I did not probe to a clean ground but I will re-try in the morning.
I also did not notice any DC voltage change when I turned on the key and probed a switch wire while grounding the other probe. That said, it is after midnight and I better retest in the morning.
Thank you.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 21:07:21 GMT -6
Thank you sir.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 20:23:28 GMT -6
Check the wires by the horn and push the horn button and see if you get voltage to it if not it may be the switch that is bad. Alleyoop I will have to determine the best way to access those wires or the switch. Thus far, I only had to remove the chrome colored hood plate to access the ignition, RR and alarm. Perhaps I can just unbolt it from the handle bar to get a better look.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 20:16:02 GMT -6
I will be happy to support your vendors. My reluctance in ordering is that I was never really sure what bike type I would be ordering for. You are the one that told me my bike is a GY6. However, on the vendor site I am looking at, it has further variations specifications required to ensure the correct part for my bike.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 20:02:05 GMT -6
One thing I forgot to mention. Somewhere over the past several months of trying to determine this issue, something happened to the horn and it will not work. Is there a separate fuse for the horn that I am not seeing? The guy I purchased the bike from had installed an accessory outlet. To make sure that outlet was not part of my problem in earlier testing, I unconnected that from the battery late last night. The horn had stopped working before I unhooked the accessory outlet.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 19:50:00 GMT -6
I pushed more crap out of the way so I could see the back of the ignition switch and I found the problem. The rear end cap on the ignition switch (where the black and red wires enter) is not staying in place. There are grooves were it just pushes itself out, and nothing I can turn to lock that end cap in place. When I hold the cap in place, the bike starts with the key no problem. I guess I can try to zip tie it so that it holds the cap tight in place.
Thank you very much guys.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 19:14:27 GMT -6
Thanks. I learn more about the bike every day.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 18:30:15 GMT -6
There appears to be four wires. Red, Black, Green and one black/white strip.
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Post by bugler on Oct 18, 2014 12:55:03 GMT -6
I was finally able to get some testing in. My R/R has the six wire bundle going into it, 3 yellow, red, black and ground. When I did the AC voltage test probing two yellow wires at a time, I had 96 AC volts when reviving the engine. I then tested for continuity between the yellow wires and had tone. Next tested for continuity between the yellow and the ground and fortunately did not have tone there. I then switched to DC voltage, plugged the wire harness back into the R/R and had 14.6v at the + and - battery terminals with RPMS.
If I understand the testing procedures this means my stator and R/R are working as normal. I did not test the diodes in the R/R as those prongs were not too easy to access for testing with the R/R still installed. However, since my battery does not normally drain out, I suspect my diodes are okay.
I still suspect the issue is the ignition switch. If I leave the key out of the ignition but switch power on with the alarm remote, I can easily start the bike by squeezing the brake and pushing the start button. That would seem (at least in my limited understanding) that the solenoid is working okay. However, if I put the key in the ignition and turn the key, it immediately blows the fuse at the battery box.
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Post by bugler on Oct 15, 2014 21:50:39 GMT -6
Okay. I have a new battery in and the bike starts right up with the remote but blows the fuse when I try to use the key. I have the front access panel off allowing me access to the rectifier. If I take the alarm fuse out then I cannot start the bike. I will start testing the rectifier tomorrow night with my multi-meter.
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Post by bugler on Oct 14, 2014 21:25:23 GMT -6
Thank you guys. I am still exploring the scooter trying to find what I need to find. Stuff is not as easy to locate as on my 750 Honda. I need to buy a battery. I had it on the charger today and it did not charge. I tested the voltage and it was 12.6 for a few seconds and then dropped to 3.6 and stayed there. I did not get much done as I live in Kansas City and I got busying watching the Royals.
I appreciate the help and guidance.
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Post by bugler on Oct 13, 2014 22:02:04 GMT -6
Thanks. I will try to check it tomorrow evening. I am looking forward to becoming familiar with my new Extech EX330 autoranging multi meter. I purchased it recently.
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