Scoot overcharging battery? By glavey (Read 12,803 times)

[Bashan]

You need to check the voltage on the stator wires, in series one at a time. Continuity is only to diagnose shorted coils and is pretty much useless beyond that.

[glavey]

Jun 25, 2014 19:43:26 GMT -6 Bashan said:

You need to check the voltage on the stator wires, in series one at a time. Continuity is only to diagnose shorted coils and is pretty much useless beyond that.

  Ok, I will do that tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

[glavey]

Another thought; does the color of the metal and the plastic connector mean anything? look at this screenshot from partsforscooters:

The R/R that came with my stock with my scoot looks like the bottom right one, but the one I got from scrappydog looks like the middle left.

[Bashan]

No, but the R/R has to be for your engine type, the engine code has to match up to the R/R. The P in your code doesn't matter but the rest of it does. I think you have the wrong part. Click on the NYC tile at the top of the site and contact John. He is a specialist in electronic parts and I bet he can match one up for you.

[glavey]

Here are the results from testing the stator with and without the R/R:

Without the R/R connected, ac voltage between the yellow wire and ground was 58 volts, between the white wire and ground was 55 volts.

With the R/R connected, ac voltage between the yellow wire and ground was 11.9 volts, between the white wire and ground was 17.6 volts.

I messaged john at nyc and linked him to this thread; we'll see what he says.

[Guitarman]

You asked about a manual for these things. Well.....
I have this one and even though it did not cover all the specifics of my bike, it covered enough to understand how and why they work which gives you the knowledge to figure out whats up on yours.

Scooter Manual

[glavey]

Ah ok. Thanks bash. Yeah, I disconnected the R/R entirely and probed the voltages from the connector that goes to the R/R. I'm just a little worried about pulling out the pins from the connector; seeing as how cheap the metal is I might break what ever tab/friction device they use to keep the pin in the connector.

Thanks for the link guitarman! When (if) I have spare money I'll look into buying a copy.

[glavey]

More test results (tested as per bashans instructions):

Without R/R: yellow - 24v; white - 22v
With R/R: yellow - 11.9v; white - 17.1v

[Bashan]

We need pics of your stator both sides and a pic of the pigtail showing the wire colors.

[glavey]

Will I need a flywheel puller to remove the magneto?

[Bashan]

To remove the flywheel....yeah...sorry but we're getting to that point. We need to inspect the stator and look for shorts or bad connections. The white wire should be about twice the yellow wire because the yellow is center tapped. They're coming in the same which makes me think somebody was messing with the stator or it's got a short.

[glavey]

Do I have to get one like scrappydog sells or can I get away with a plain ol' gear puller?

[Bashan]

We've had guys trash their flywheel using a gear puller and we've had some guys have success. You might end up spending a lot more money trying to get around using the flywheel puller. Try Ebay or check out our tile vendors at the top of the site, you might get it cheaper.

[glavey]

Yeah, I was trying to save a few dollars. I could have sworn I had a gear puller in my toolbox, but apparently I don't and it seems that a puller specifically for this engine might be cheaper.

I hate buying tools so focused on one individual use, like the variator holder I bought a while ago, but damn they come in handy when you need them, like a few moments ago when I used it to hold the crankshaft in place so I could remove the flywheel nut.

I've been avoiding ebay and trying to go with actual stores like partsforscooters, mainelyscooters, and scrappydogdscooters; but if I did that with my budget right now I could only afford a flywheel puller OR a stator OR another regulator but no combination thereof. I'll see what I can find on ebay...

[FACE PLANT FOR LIFE]

Jun 27, 2014 17:49:31 GMT -6 glavey said:

Yeah, I was trying to save a few dollars. I could have sworn I had a gear puller in my toolbox, but apparently I don't and it seems that a puller specifically for this engine might be cheaper.

I hate buying tools so focused on one individual use, like the variator holder I bought a while ago, but damn they come in handy when you need them, like a few moments ago when I used it to hold the crankshaft in place so I could remove the flywheel nut.

I've been avoiding ebay and trying to go with actual stores like partsforscooters, mainelyscooters, and scrappydogdscooters; but if I did that with my budget right now I could only afford a flywheel puller OR a stator OR another regulator but no combination thereof. I'll see what I can find on ebay...

Try this, it's worked for me everytime: Get a steering wheel puller from AutoZone (rent it) or some other auto store. It should look something like this:

Take and size up some EXACT bolts that fit into the holes on your flywheel, put the bolts through the side of the steering wheel puller, and then use a wrench to crank down on the bolt on the steering wheel puller (that should be positioned on the center where you took of the flywheel nut) until the flywheel comes off! This has worked for me everytime without fail and has never caused me damage.

Then just go return your puller. It will be close to free (minus gas and maybe the bolts)