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Post by heruk on Jul 30, 2014 5:07:04 GMT -6
my stalling problem started out as a light issue whenever I filled up the gas tank to just under the fill bar. after changing the oil I noticed that my bike was stalling even more whenever I hit full throttle.I've cracked the gas tank no improvement. I've also adjusted the governor on the carburetor and now it will just stall out of idle.there was a big temperature change today and the environment is a lot colder and so I screwed in the carburetor governor thingy the idle screw to the point where it will at least Idol without shutting off.
but if I let it idle for 5 minutes It will eventualy shut off.I'm scared to take it on the road now because at first it was only at a full throttle that it would shut off and stall. now whenever I go uphill or give it 50% it will stall. if I let go of the throttle completely it will either idle or stall out.
it backfires on the deceleration so I figured it was running lean and I adjust the carburetor to run richer but I'm not sure what the deal is. I actually noticed the problem starting when I switch from high grade gas to mid grade gas in order to get rid of backfires on deceleration.
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Post by heruk on Jul 31, 2014 11:01:50 GMT -6
clear tube under air filter box filled with brown juice what does that mean?
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Post by Guitarman on Jul 31, 2014 11:09:14 GMT -6
What 'governor thingie' are you talking about? Do you mean the idle screw? How did you adjust the air/fuel mix? The 'brown juice' is used oil and gas overflow. Dump it in the correct place.
Give us picture please.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 31, 2014 11:11:41 GMT -6
Can you get us a pic? It sounds like the crankcase vapor waste tube. It should have a plug in it and it needs to be emptied once in a while. See if a hose from the valve cover comes up and hooks onto your airbox.
I'm thinking you have a fuel delivery problem. I would have said it was your vent but you did the gas cap loosening test. Have you set the valves? You need to get that off of the table. Then I'd change the fuel filter and see what happens. The fuel vac valve might be bad, we'll check that after the fuel filter. Rich
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 31, 2014 11:44:17 GMT -6
First off if the valves have not been adjusted that is the first thing to do. Otherwise adjusting the carb is just trying to compensate for tight valves. The backfiring is a LEAN condition which means it has a back air leak, Air filter came off the carb, cracked intake manifold, the header pipe is leaking by where it attachs to the motor etc. Here is how to adjust the Carb correctly, Print the instructions out and follow the procedure. Alleyoop scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/1499/4ts-carb-tuning
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Post by heruk on Jul 31, 2014 12:53:58 GMT -6
yes the idle screw.my dad used to call it the governor when we used to have a go kart as children.I adjusted according to my engine and muffler sounds. to the left when it pop during acceleration and to the right during deceleration.I didn't adjust it according to How it Road. at one point it was only going up to 2000 rpms but now my max is about 5000 rpms and 40 miles an hour. I see some places say it should idle at 1500 and some places 2000 but I am leaning towards 1500rpms.I'm sure you would agree.
I haven't touched the valve stems are opened up the carburetor top or any of that stuff. I'm a bit hesitant to.I did attempt removing the spark plug but when I removed it the wire that is I was expecting to see the butt of a spark plug but instead so what appeared to be a long screw end. about the size of the bashans krank. I figured the wire that goes over the top of the spark plug may be defective and just put it back on that was the end of that.
I actually took some videos but I can't find my connect cables and my youtube app on this phone is acting weird but I'll have some up later
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Post by Bashan on Jul 31, 2014 14:14:02 GMT -6
what appeared to be a long screw end. about the size of the bashans krank. That's just hilarious......YOU'RE BANNED!! That MASSIVE screw you're talking about is the way the plug boot attaches to the plug wire. It's supposed to be in the boot. The only way to test it is to screw it as far into your nose as possible. No...farther than that....farther Heruk! Now slowly say "Bashan's crank is huge" while twisting the screw. AGAIN! Still feeling funny there Her-Yuk?
If that screw is loose then that could be a problem. The video would help and I want to see how much blood came out of your nose. Bashan's Crank
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Post by heruk on Jul 31, 2014 14:16:01 GMT -6
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Post by heruk on Jul 31, 2014 14:20:40 GMT -6
wow! lol!
i couldnt get my camera into the tiny crevice to film the lil'ol screw. the engine had plastic shielding around it blocking access a bit. Should I take that shield off?
That screw has no head. Should i just grab it with a pliers?
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 31, 2014 14:39:08 GMT -6
So you have a plugged Fuel Ratio Screw on the carb(BUMMER), you have TWO options, 1 drill the plug out or get a new carb with the fuel ratio screw not plugged. So yes it appears it is running LEAN and needs more fuel. Here is a PLUGGED Fuel Ratio Screw like what you have: Alleyoop
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Post by heruk on Jul 31, 2014 14:42:19 GMT -6
Like dremel a flat head groove into it you mean? and after I do that it that screw just used for adjustments or accessing the jets?
and how could you tell I have a plugged carb?
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 31, 2014 15:01:07 GMT -6
Like dremel a flat head groove into it you mean? and after I do that it that screw just used for adjustments or accessing the jets? and how could you tell I have a plugged carb? You said the screw had no head. If it has a slot for a screwdriver then it is not plugged but if it looks like this it is plugged. Here is the plug which is about 1/8 thick. You have TWO options one drill the plug out or get a new carb with the screw not plugged. Here is how to get the plug out to get access to the fuel ratio mixture screw:
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Post by heruk on Jul 31, 2014 15:13:09 GMT -6
Sorry poop, The screw without a head I was referring to was a screw connected to the spark plug cap. I was trying to figure out how to get that off of the spark plug. I havnt the balls yet to try and take the carb off since I need to be able to ride the next day.
I will be adjusting the valves some time soon so I will find out if that is the case with mine soon. All i need are those flat strips of metal to adjust the valves right? calipers i believe? and since I will be in there what is that wire tool called that is used to clean the jets?
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 31, 2014 15:27:15 GMT -6
Yes they are called feeler gauges, you buy a set at the auto parts store. But make sure the set has feeler gauges .003, .004 , 005 some sets start at .008 which are for some cars.
To clean the jets you can buy a SPRAY CAN OF CARB cleaner they come will a thin straw so when you take the CARB BOWL off you can spray into every hole you see. Also if you want to use a wire if you have any wire brushs like for the grill or something you can use a wire from there. IT has to be very tiny wire in thickness. Alleyoop
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Post by heruk on Jul 31, 2014 15:30:53 GMT -6
damn i needed that video! cool crap thanks guys. guess ill go get the feeler gauges tonight
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