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Post by heruk on Aug 5, 2014 8:26:24 GMT -6
Holy crap! went to the auto store and back and my tank is stil full! what the screw?
That ride used to eat half my tank.
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Post by heruk on Aug 5, 2014 8:29:53 GMT -6
Yeah a cig hookup will work. You could also put a trickle charge pigtail on it also. I personally would remove that vapor canister system. It is not needed and I think causing trouble. If you want to do that, pull that hose off of the airbox that keeps popping off and plug the opening. There will be a vac line off of the vapor canister running to another vac line or the intake manifold. Remove the canister vac line and plug or cap where it connected to the vac system. Off of the tank will be a vent line that runs to a check valve. Remove the vent line from the check valve, tie it off higher than it's inlet to the tank, put an old fuel filter in it. Everything between the hose that was popping off, and the check valve, throw it the hell out.
Here's how it works:
Here's how to get rid of it:
interesting I'll look into that but I want to end this backfiring first and foremost |
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Post by heruk on Aug 22, 2014 17:30:11 GMT -6
Haven't gotten to the the b firing yet but the bike has been stalling and hard to start. It gets spark but the plug seems to be screwed in wrong because i cant seem to get the boot onto the spark plug properly. The bike has also been turning off at stop lights a lot and the occasional non start at which point the bike needs a jump start... jump starts always start it right up. - I am going to double check my valve adjustments again. what is that plastic part that covers the engine and can I remove it?
- Is it possible to screw off the part that attaches the spark plug and the engine?
- Considering a new battery although mine is only 2 years old. Can a scooter battery be tested for cca's? and how many are needed to start a scooter?
- Does the epson salt thing work? and if so should i do that rather than buy a new battery since mine is only 2 years old
- Ive also been stalling in low throttle. when stalling easing back on the throttle stalls the bike, accelerating further wakes it back up. whats that again?
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Post by heruk on Aug 23, 2014 12:49:51 GMT -6
okay so my bike will stall out after warming up and idling down. So I readjusted my valves and checked my spark plug. it seems however that the spark plug will not screw in all of the way it just continually turns clockwise.
of course after the bike warms up and idles down then shuts off, trying to restart the bike just kills the battery.of course when I brought the battery inside to charge it it read 95% charged.
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Post by heruk on Aug 23, 2014 12:50:39 GMT -6
starting to f****** hate this thing
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 23, 2014 13:24:05 GMT -6
Not good if the spark plug does not tighten up and you can keep on turning it. That means the threads are stripped on the head. That causes loss of compression hard starts and will not hold low idle and only run at higher rpms but one of these days it will blow the spark plug right out. The plug is not that fouled as you think, but it is running LEAN needs more fuel. The porcelain is white it should be brownish color.
Alleyoop
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Post by heruk on Aug 23, 2014 13:40:03 GMT -6
Not good if the spark plug does not tighten up and you can keep on turning it. That means the threads are stripped on the head. That causes loss of compression hard starts and will not hold low idle and only run at higher rpms but one of these days it will blow the spark plug right out. The plug is not that fouled as you think, but it is running LEAN needs more fuel. The porcelain is white it should be brownish color. Alleyoop yeah I think that's already happening with the low compression and also now the bike won't start even if I charge the battery up to 100%.I think it stripped in the engine and not on the spark plug |
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Post by heruk on Aug 23, 2014 14:27:20 GMT -6
cyborg recommended a heli coil.will that improve my compression?
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 23, 2014 14:29:08 GMT -6
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Post by heruk on Aug 23, 2014 16:03:27 GMT -6
5/16-18 or 5/16-24 kit?
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Post by heruk on Aug 23, 2014 16:35:28 GMT -6
so what size kit do I get for NGK c7hsa hole? The thread and pitch are 10mm x 1.00mm
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Post by heruk on Aug 23, 2014 19:40:09 GMT -6
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 23, 2014 19:47:34 GMT -6
No that is a 1.5 thread pitch you need a 1.00 pitch so you have to find one m10xm1.0 The 10 is the wide of the plug threads and the 1.0 is the pitch of the threads.
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Post by Bashan on Aug 23, 2014 19:51:51 GMT -6
Can I say something here and hopefully won't offend? For ten bucks more you can have a new head with valves preinstalled and a head gasket for 10 bucks more. Then you don't have to think about the heli-coil and whether you did it right. JMO. Rich
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Post by Alleyoop on Aug 23, 2014 19:53:14 GMT -6
It may be cheaper or about the same if you just got a new head, what motor do you have a 139QMB or is it a 150 157qmj or whatever.
Alleyoop
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
