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Post by Bashan on Oct 30, 2014 11:45:43 GMT -6
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Post by steelblade on Oct 30, 2014 12:50:52 GMT -6
Why didn't I invent that a couple decades ago?
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Post by steelblade on Nov 1, 2014 15:05:52 GMT -6
Alright, if you look back at the first photo, you will see the overflow tank right to the left of the stripped screw.
This is important, because I canNOT access said tank without removing said screw. I CAN do this, I have the 'reverse' drill bits for doing just that but it looks very much like this is a 'programmed' service call. Something easy to do that is deliberately made difficult in order to generate service fees.
I'm contacting SYM on this.
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Post by cyborg on Nov 1, 2014 15:50:50 GMT -6
if you have a set of "easy outs",,,drill a small hole in center of the screw and get that thing out of there,,,
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Post by steelblade on Nov 2, 2014 13:40:34 GMT -6
I've got 'em, as I said. I don't expect an answer from SYM till Monday and we'll see that they say about this. I can look into getting mine out next Saturday. Another option is to cut my own access hole, but I would want a way of covering it.
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Post by Guitarman on Nov 2, 2014 22:39:24 GMT -6
EZ Oil drain valve. Guess what the next upgrade on my Nighthawk will be... Too sweet. Need one for the car too...
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Post by steelblade on Nov 3, 2014 10:31:17 GMT -6
SYM isn't listed on their site for the EZ drain, but I sent an email. We'll see what they say.
Got a response on the American distributors of SYM, and they have no idea about the stripped screws. They only started in 2011 and the previous models were done by a previous company. I'll just have to break out the reverse bits I have to get them out and replace them. I am DEFINITELY going to look into installing a port to give me easier access to the reserve radiator tank.
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Post by cyborg on Nov 3, 2014 16:44:27 GMT -6
let me see a pic of the inside of the leg shield ,,,i may have an answer for you that will make it easy access and will look stock original,,,,and it won't look like a beaver's been gnawing on it
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Post by steelblade on Nov 3, 2014 17:18:57 GMT -6
That one is pretty much identical with my scoot.
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Post by steelblade on Nov 8, 2014 16:35:53 GMT -6
SucCESS!
The damage to the 2 screws under the front by the wheels were the ones with the long straight scrapes cut into them. Yep. Long. Straight. Deep.
After a good round of slapping myself in the forehead I got a nice flat head screwdriver and they damn near removed themselves.
New fluid is in. I'll take a nice relaxing ride, then see about putting some more in if it needs it.
The light green is damn near impossible to see, though. I WILL have it professionally flushed and filled with some other color. Unless I can add food coloring or somesuch to what is in there?
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Post by Guitarman on Nov 8, 2014 18:59:14 GMT -6
Food coloring will not hurt anything.
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Post by steelblade on Nov 10, 2014 13:30:24 GMT -6
BTW, the water actually wasn't low. Like I said, light green isn't visible. The overheating must just be long running. It's a city bike, after all. I can take it on the highway but not take a trip to Austin or whatever on it. I probably shouldn't even try to go across town too far. Not without a stop to cool it back down.
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Post by Bashan on Nov 10, 2014 14:46:18 GMT -6
You should be able to take that bike where you want without worrying about overheating. Did you put new coolant in? You know coolant goes bad right? Drain it out, flush it, and replace it with 50/50 Prestone and add some water wetter. If it is still heating up pull the thermostat and test it.
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Post by richardv on Nov 10, 2014 19:46:01 GMT -6
It could also be a plugged radiator. See if there's a radiator repair shop near by that can back flush it. That would, of course, require removing the radiator. With that small a unit it may even be cheaper to get a new one.
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Post by cyborg on Nov 10, 2014 20:15:00 GMT -6
My money is on a bad thermostat ,,, it's sticking closed or not opening correctly
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