Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 9, 2014 12:51:09 GMT -6
Jut purchased this stator from ebay for my scooter its an 8 pole. stator link and the pics of my old stator are here and I already started it up and the lights now go dim and get brighter but the head lights die out and the other lights stay super dim but they getting a little brighter when I rev my engine. link to my the stator on crank case/
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 9, 2014 12:53:25 GMT -6
could be the wrong stator? LOL
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Post by Bashan on Nov 9, 2014 13:25:42 GMT -6
Unhook your stator pig and set your multi to 200v AC range. Ground one of the probes and alligator clip the other lead to the yellow wire. Start it and give it some RPMs. You should get 15 to 20v AC. Move the test lead to the white and do the same test, normal is 20 to 40v AC. If those are OK then it's the right stator. Hook the pig back up and expose the connectors on the R/R. Just pull back the insulation a little bit or force the probe in the back of the connector. Start the engine and test both the white and then the yellow while hooked up. They should be around 12v AC especially with some RPM. If not it's the R/R. Test it with lights on and off and using brake and not using brake. Also things like blowing horn. See what all of that does to the voltage. I suspect it's your R/R.
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 9, 2014 13:51:09 GMT -6
I unhooked the big green clip and tested all three wires and with the probe grounded to the frame and throttle on too. I got 00.1 - 00.02 ran for about 2 minutes
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Post by Alleyoop on Nov 9, 2014 14:43:49 GMT -6
Did you set the MULTI METER ON AC? Here is a nice Diagram from RICH on how to test. Alleyoop To test the output of the stator set your multi to AC and find a good ground for the black probe such as the engine or frame. Unhook the white wire from the regulator and put the red probe into the connector on the white wire. Start your engine and give it some RPMs. You should get something like this: Reconnect the white and unhook the yellow. Test it in the same fashion: The white provides the charging current and the yellow does the AC lights like the headlights. If your voltages are somewhat different don't panic, there's a lot a variation from one stator to another. However, they should be close. If your voltages are significantly less on either wire then your stator is toast. If your stator voltages are OK then hook all the wires back up to the R/R and start the bike. Now touch your red probe to any exposed spot on the yellow wire. It doesn't matter where, the whole wire is regulated. You should get close to 12v AC. Then do the same to the white wire and you should get 12v AC again. If you don't then the R/R is bad. Although the blue/white andred/black wires don't have anything to do with our discussion on charging, you can test them in the same manner:
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 9, 2014 16:21:32 GMT -6
Ya before I got into the parts end of this , I found it very frustrating not knowing if the parts I bought were any good .
Sorry for your trouble !!!!!!
John
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Post by Bashan on Nov 9, 2014 17:44:12 GMT -6
Hey just for giggles. Use an alligator clip and ground the green wire and then test the yellow and white again. Almost all single phase GY6 stators ground the stator on the case mount. But I read about a couple that ground through the green. Usually the green is the end of the white wire and has a resistor connection to the magneto coil through the connector pad. But with the Chinese anything is possible.
The difference between the white and yellow is the yellow has a split! So it is not forced through the rectifier, it is simply regulated. The current oscillates back and forth through the regulator and splits off through the lights and back to the stator. Easy peasy with no rectification:
Now the white is a little more complex. The white comes right from the stator with AC on the white. There is no split so it must move through the rectifier as well as the regulator. The rectified current is pushed through the R/R to the red lead where the negative portion of the rectification moves towards the red lead of the battery. Remember, negative electrons move towards positive! The current does NOT flow out of the red lead, it flows towards it. Why do you think the fuse is in the red wire just before the battery? To catch the wave of hyper current BEFORE it reaches the battery. There is still AC oscillation from the ground back to the stator so you still have to have a ground. That's why I thought he should hook a ground up to the green off of the stator for the test. Those non existant values off of that stator seem unlikely unless it is totally shorted out. Anyway, this is how the white wire works:
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 9, 2014 21:53:45 GMT -6
Well I bought another 8 pole stator with the same color thats looks the same as mine, I'm going to install that one and go from there. It will be here in 4 days from PR
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Post by Kaveman on Nov 11, 2014 19:49:25 GMT -6
Did you change the flywheel? If I am wrong let me know. Wasn't the flywheel different for a 6 and an 8 post stator assy ? willc.
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Post by Bashan on Nov 11, 2014 20:54:13 GMT -6
Yes, a 6 pole flywheel is different from an 8 pole which is different from an 11 pole etc. I thought they were both 8 pole but I could be wrong.
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 11, 2014 23:04:42 GMT -6
I just replaced the stock R/R last month and was replacing the stock 8 pole stator with a new one because my lights would not dim then charge with throttle. That all changed when I replace it, it started to recharge on throttle but it would was not getting enough power or something, so I'm going with a new stock OEM one.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 12, 2014 6:22:29 GMT -6
6 and 8 have different diameter . 8 and 11 are the same diameter . The ones listed as 11 I was challenged that it was only 8 . I checked with iron filings and found it to be 8 . It also has been no trouble working with 8 or 11 pole stator .
John
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 15, 2014 17:13:23 GMT -6
Okay replaced stator again and found out the other one was fine and the lights did the same thing. So I disconnected the new r/r and put one of the old ones and it made the lights work. I tested the white wire on the r/r and it was 12 ax then the yellow was dead even with rpm
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Post by Bashan on Nov 15, 2014 23:09:27 GMT -6
If your lights were working and the yellow was truly getting zero voltage.....then you have a DC system. Something is wrong here, either you are testing wrong or the system is not WYG stator single phase. Unhook from the R/R and test the wires on the stator like Alley outlined earlier.
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 16, 2014 10:42:52 GMT -6
I will get to testing it by the end of next week. ..
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