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Post by Bashan on Nov 16, 2014 11:37:14 GMT -6
I understand you're busy Adam but it takes five minutes. Maybe you think it's another procedure. You ground one of the multi probes, set the meter to AC and 100 volt range. Unhook the stator pigtail, start the bike, put the free probe on the white and give it some RPM, then do the yellow the same way. That's it, easy peasy. Hook it back to the connector and test the wires while hooked up to the R/R. Rich
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 21, 2014 15:45:18 GMT -6
Okay just changed out my regulator with a new one from the dealer and it looks like a total different one but has 4 pins and now my front head lights only work with when my front brake is pulled LOL. I tested the battery and it was going over 15.4 volts with throttle. Now I have to test my stator.
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 21, 2014 16:16:31 GMT -6
Put the black probe into the pig tail green wire ground and then tested each wire with 200 v ac multimeter and here are the pictures. ..... stator pics
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 21, 2014 17:12:13 GMT -6
jUST TESTED THE regulator not running, unhooked and hooked up. tested the red wire on the r/r got 13.3 dc v. unhooked the r/r and tested it the red was 28.8 the white was 15-22 and the yellow was still dead and green was the ground. With the r/r hooked up it was red 28.3 and the white was 12.0 and the yellow was still dead and the green was still the ground.
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Post by Kaveman on Nov 21, 2014 20:48:27 GMT -6
I noticed something : I would recheck each wire including the green . You must have the black negative grounded on the frame. Not on the green wire. That could explain the non readings your getting on your meter as seen in your photos. Please recheck the previous diagram aswell . willc.
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Post by Bashan on Nov 21, 2014 21:09:04 GMT -6
I noticed a couple things. First, if your headlight only works when you pull in the brake you have some seriously miswired circuits. You'll have to pull things apart and do some serious multi testing. Second, why are you testing with the scooter not running? We want to know what the stator is putting out and what the regulator is doing with it. Did you read over stator basics and stator testing in the Scooter Doc manual? It explains how all of this works.
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 21, 2014 21:22:38 GMT -6
Well it started to be all weird with the lights and only work with the brake pulled when I installed the new regulator from the dealer yesterday . And my ground probe broke, waiting for a new fluke meter... I put on the other regulator I just bought from ebay for 17$ and it allows me to change from bright to low but I keep popping light bulbs because my battery is revving to 15.5 volts. and my tail light will night brighten up all the way. The new one allows my tail light to light up but just will not allow my headlights to work.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 22, 2014 7:17:15 GMT -6
Adam , your really spinning your wheels here , I see you bought two stators and two regulators . What do the vendors say where your getting the stators an regulators . I find this odd they must just be pushing sku's without any idea about the item they are selling .
do resistance checks , green to the body of the stator . Check the resistance of the white and yellow from the plug to the stator coil where it attaches . Then then white to yellow and then white and yellow to ground .
John
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 22, 2014 9:01:10 GMT -6
I bought the stators new off ebay but my scooter is from China but made for California emissions. The dealer SSR sent me a regulator for 30$ after shipping and it was a different color and model then the stock one it came with, it was still a 4 pin though. None of the light bulbs went haywire until I changed the stator. I'm thinking the dealer would hopefully have the right stator? Just ordered a new meter because I have no wheels to get around atm because of california state law says you need headlights for motorcycles. Just thinking about putting the old stator on and old regulator...
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 22, 2014 11:12:50 GMT -6
Okay I just changed the stator back to the original one that I didn't throw away and had the new r/r on, everything works fine now... I feel like I've been trolled by my scooter LOL. My lights come on as soon as the bike is fired and I can adjust from brights to low.
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 22, 2014 11:42:31 GMT -6
Btw I found some spider weds inside the trigger coil prong on the wireharness and some in the red and black prong.
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Post by Alleyoop on Nov 22, 2014 12:31:50 GMT -6
Usually if things come on or get better when you squeeze the breaks it is a grounding problem. So when you squeeze the breaks and the break lights work and come on you just grounded a lot of electrical parts. my .02 Alleyoop
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Post by adamhoyer on Nov 22, 2014 13:22:48 GMT -6
Well I originally thought my lights were dim because of the stator lol .I think though one of the sections of the big bulbs went out. Think its called a fillamint? Has two functions bright and low, the low function. So I should of changed the big bulbs first before I even spent money on stators.... Everything works fine when the engine is fired, the lights turn on when the engine is fired and no brake lever is needed to make the lights turn on.
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