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Post by scoot on Jan 4, 2015 19:31:59 GMT -6
one1, markwb, cyborg, Bashan, rks, Guitarman, adamhoyer Hi not to bust your bubble but the ABS is not really ABS (no computer) just kind of a reservoir so you can't lock up the front wheel.welcome to the world of Chinese scooters where things aren't always as they seen to be..but hey the drilled rotors are cool.right.good luck if you like to tinker your going to love your new scooter.I know I love mine.later.
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Post by Bashan on Jan 4, 2015 19:59:45 GMT -6
I'm sorry but the tutorials one of which I wrote say .004" and .004" to .006" for a 150. .002" is for a 50cc. Further, you said early in this thread you would set them to .004" and .005" and then you set them the .002" along with plugging the crankcase vent as well which I advised you not to do. If you'd slow up a little, read what we post, and ask before you do something you wouldn't have to go back and do it again. I'm sorry you were irritated but we get a little irritated too saying the same things over and over. So there's my rant, no hard feelings, I'll see if Alley will take the ball from here.
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Post by one1 on Jan 4, 2015 20:07:45 GMT -6
Bashan i used the gy6 guide which i'll locate and link, but regardless onceni found the guide i did it by the guide regardless of what i was intending to do because..... Its the guide. If i was om the wrong one we will see when i go get the link but for now im setting the valves as i type so gonna finish and see.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 4, 2015 20:22:10 GMT -6
Forget the GUIDES you are reading listen to what we tell you and do them. We have been doing this crap for decades. IF ITS A 50cc then set both valves to .003 inchs IF ITS A 150cc set both valves to .004 inchs end of conversation. Some set the exhaust to .005 inchs because they are lazy and hope to extend the time for the next valve adjustment.
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Post by one1 on Jan 4, 2015 20:40:35 GMT -6
I'm going to see if there's any more bogging tomorrow it started up fine but I've got it in my spare room so I can't really do anything with it. It certainly didn't hurt the acceleration it still seems to revel up to high rpm's pretty well so the only thing I've noticed is that it seems like it wants to bog from idle but that is being said having not been able to retune after moving the valves from 002 to 004/5 so after tomm we will see if it is still bogging.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 4, 2015 20:59:34 GMT -6
Well if it bogs giving it throttle the valve adjustment will not fix that. The bog is fuel and air mix is off. If it bogs to much air or not enough fuel. Remember when you twist the throttle what you are doing right off the bat is OPENING the butterfly wide open and letting all the air to come in BUT the needle on the main jet has not come out to feed it more fuel yet because that only happens after it builds enough air pressure to push on the dighgram and raise the needle which Happens much later.
So what does that tell you if that happens starting off it all has to do with the PILOT JET and the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE not set right and or the IDLE is set to low or both. Alleyoop
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Post by one1 on Jan 5, 2015 14:49:45 GMT -6
.Well the valves are now .004 and .005. I feel like it would run better if they were .003 and .004 based on how it ran before adjusting them and now, but it would not have been a huge difference. Overall I am very happy. After the valve adjustment there was no change in my situation so just for kicks I shoved a rag into the air box and it fixed everything all at once and ran perfect topping out at an "indicated" 55 mph. Didn't have a gps on me to see how well adjusted this particular scooters gauges are. It's always a crapshoot. I can say however I have ran 55 on my cheater geely before and it felt very similar so I estimate it was at least 50-ish. Thanks for all the information and help as always and hope to return the favor sometime. If there is a better way to adjust the air/fuel than sticking a rag in the airbox I'm game to try it, but there are no settings on this carb I can change to make it different so i think it is best to leave it be at this point. I've made a video so you can all hear how it sounds and see how it runs at the indicated top speed. I am used to 2 stroke high revving scooters so this one sounds like it never really gets excited to my ears, but it runs very well and it quite quick for a 150 in basically a 250 sized body. This is a big booty Scootie. :-) Here is a video for you all s32.photobucket.com/user/audiogodz1/media/00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000068.mp4.html
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Post by cyborg on Jan 5, 2015 15:43:26 GMT -6
It's running pretty darn good,,, there must be a cap to drill and pull so you can get at the fuel mixture so the rag can go away,,, it is running good tho not bad at all,,, good score
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2015 18:39:03 GMT -6
Yep with the rag you restricted the amount of air coming in so the amount of fuel being sucked out is a good mixture of fuel and air. Alleyoop
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Post by one1 on Jan 5, 2015 19:44:52 GMT -6
The performance issues as of a few moments ago have completely been resolved and it even runs faster cause it's getting nice fresh cold air now instead of hot polluted air in the intake so let me tell you what was really the problem and the rag has been tossed away. When I rerouted the rocker cover back to the air box like it was supposed to be with the original hose in the original place what I didn't do was look inside the where the airbox was sectioned off. I was unaware that this airbox had a special section in it just for the blowback from the crank case and that it had to be sealed off from the rest of the airbox. this one was wide open to the air filter cause the cover was broken in half. It looks like what's going to make my scooter run properly is to simply make a catch can and be done with the intake tube from the rocker cover. It was supposed to look like this: However it looked like this: Idk why this was broken...... Here is the catch section that has a drain tube under it.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 5, 2015 20:07:40 GMT -6
And that is why we tell everyone that has the VENT hose from the Valve Cover to relieve the crankcase peressure to take it off the Air Filter box and plug that connector up and put a fuel filter on the end of the Vent hose and zip tie it higher than the valve cover. Reason being is there will always be times when it will create to much pressure and squirt oil out into the vent hose and into the air box where it was connected. And eventually it will cause restrictions and or not allow the crankcase to vent. Alleyoop
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Post by one1 on Jan 5, 2015 21:01:22 GMT -6
I'll have to buy me a fuel filter tomorrow to do that, but I saw the one Brent did on his at 49cc so I did have plans to do that. I've been trying to work the kinks out as you know before I go modifying anything. It should run perfect stock without any workarounds THEN start to make improvements. As a tech I don't modify to eliminate problems, I fix them then modify. Now that it is all good it's time to start the improvements. :-)
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Post by cyborg on Jan 5, 2015 21:14:10 GMT -6
Looks like a vibrational fatigue crack to me,,,, make a new one of heavier stock
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Post by one1 on Jan 5, 2015 22:06:02 GMT -6
I completely agree with that that's what it looks like to me as well. One question the back drive on the cvt says replace with GL -3 oil, but I know I can replace it with regular weight oil i just need to know what to use. I have forgotten.
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Post by cyborg on Jan 5, 2015 22:31:47 GMT -6
75w90 with a gl5 rating is what I would run
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