Clinician
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Post by ric812 on Apr 17, 2015 18:30:05 GMT -6
Brand new air filter and I will set the fuel ratio and follow up
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Clinician
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Post by ric812 on Apr 18, 2015 17:56:45 GMT -6
Still the same problem after setting the fuel ratio, I have to crack the throttle for it to fire and when it starts warming up I am getting the white smoke. Also I can not get the idle low enough to stop the rear well from turning. As well as the engine dying when the rear brake is applied and held.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 18, 2015 18:14:22 GMT -6
So when it does start it is idling really high for it to die applying the brakes due to the rear wheel spinning like crazy and loading up the motor. Can you take a picture of the carb area from both sides of the carb Left side and Right side Throttle cable side.
Since it is a 4 stroke white smoke is GAS, if it was blueish it would be oil. Was the carb changed or jets changed? Was anything changed or replaced on the scoot. Also when did this start to happen did it ever run good? Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by ric812 on Apr 19, 2015 13:15:27 GMT -6
I purchased it not running and was told it was a fuel pump issue. I started working on it to determine the exact problem. That has been all my post till now. The scooter, as I was told, has a new carb, cdi , and battery. The carb does look brand new. I have not changed anything on the carb. Could the fuel pump be bad?? And I will get pictures of the carb tomorrow.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 19, 2015 13:25:26 GMT -6
Easy enough to test the fuel pump just get a cup and take the fuel hose off the carb and crank it over fuel should stream into the cup. But I think your problem is TO MUCH FUEL if it smokes white after warming up. Since you say it has a new carb maybe it is to big of a carb.
So lets test the PILOT JET on the carb. Before you start it lets check how many turns out the FUEL RATIO mixture screw is set on the carb. Turn it clockwise and count the number turns it takes until it stops. Then you can turn it back out the same number of turns. Let me know how many turns it is out. Alleyoop
After it starts and warms up at least 5 minutes Turn the fuel ratio screw CLOCKWISE 1/4 turns at a time and see if it kills your nr
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Clinician
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Post by ric812 on Apr 20, 2015 9:21:00 GMT -6
OK turned the ratio all the way shut and it did not die. But the white smoke was cut down drastically. It will stay running now with the rear brake held. I was able to run it around the apartment complex up to about 20 mph and it was running good and now it has very little white smoke now but is still idling high. I will pull the plug tommorrow and take pictures of that also.
trying to get pictures to upload from photobucket but I am having problems and I have to go to work.
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Post by cyborg on Apr 20, 2015 12:49:10 GMT -6
over carburetted Alley?
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Clinician
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Post by ric812 on Apr 20, 2015 13:22:15 GMT -6
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Post by ric812 on Apr 20, 2015 13:40:36 GMT -6
I also found this wire lose, what is it for? Also where can I get a kill switch/throttle assembly for a united motors gp1r? The tab that holds the throttle from spinning is broken off and the throttle assembly will spin with the handle. Thank You for all the help
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A bike is music to my ears.
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Post by Guitarman on Apr 20, 2015 22:00:28 GMT -6
Smaller jets in the carb should help. It's getting way too much fuel. Even choked down on the A/F screw.
What size jets are in it now?
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Clinician
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Post by ric812 on Apr 22, 2015 11:00:22 GMT -6
OK I will pull off the carb on my next day off and post what jet size the carb has
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 22, 2015 11:22:39 GMT -6
I see some problems let me copy your pictures so I can point out what your problem is give me a few meintues. Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 22, 2015 11:55:04 GMT -6
Ok first thing is the high rpms. See the throttle cable in PIC #1. I labled the parts 1, 2 , 3. CLICK ON THE PICTURES SO YOU CAN SEE THEM BETTER AND WHAT I LABLED. PROBLEM NUMBER 1: #1 is the NUT that has to be screwed onto #2 all the way to the bracket nice and tight. Then right now #3 is causing your high rpms because it is not allowing the throttle control wheel to rotate and your throttle(BUTTERFLY) inside the carb is left to open acting as if you are holding the throttle open. That rubber piece GOES OVER ALL THE WAY OVER THE NUT RIGHT NEXT TO THE BRACKET. PROBLEM NUMBER 2: The Clamp holding the carb to the INTAKE MANIFOLD IS LOOSE, it is probably sucking in extra air: TIGHTEN THE CLAMP: Now The wire that you say is loose is WHITE/BLACK and that is your KILLSWITCH and it came off the TOP SLOT in the TWO PLUG ON THE CDI See the PICTURE OF the CDI PIC #2. PIC #2:
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Post by ric812 on Apr 24, 2015 11:10:14 GMT -6
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 24, 2015 11:29:57 GMT -6
Spark plug looks ok The 108 is find that must be a 24mm carb they come with a main jet anywhere from 103-108 so your at the top of a stocker motor with the 108. Fix the things I put up above and you will have a different running motor. Alleyoop
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