SSR Pacifica 150 (Znen ZN150T-18) - keep both headlights on? By dannytroy (Read 2,188 times)

[dannytroy]

If you're not familiar with this scooter, it has a low beam headlight on the left and a high beam on the right.  The headlight switch allows you to choose either beam.  The switch also has a spring-loaded setting where both beams are on at the same time.  I really like having two headlights, so I adjusted the high beam as low as it can go, and cut the small plastic tab that holds the spring, inside the switch.  Now I have a three-way switch, and am able to keep both headlights on.  I also no longer have people telling me I have a headlight out!  This is my first scooter where the stock bulbs (when using both) give enough illumination, and I didn't have to replace with better bulbs.  The problem, as you might guess, is the voltage when both lights are on, is lower than 12v.  I haven't had a problem draining the battery so far down as to cause a problem starting, but I can see that happening at some point.  The tail-light is already LED, so there's nothing I can do there to save juice.  There are two small "parking light" type bulbs under the headlights, which I supposed aren't needed with two headlights on at all times.  Would it be worth it to take those bulbs out, or possibly replace them with LEDs?
I supposed a new, higher quality rectifier would help also.  Using a rectifier from Oregon Motorcycle Parts helped my last scooter, so I guess it would help here too.  Any other ideas?

[tvnacman]

I would look to use heaver wire from the stator to the regulator. Then from the regulator to the battery and ground.

John

[dannytroy]

Aug 3, 2015 9:41:53 GMT -6 tvnacman said:

I would look to use heaver wire from the stator to the regulator. Then from the regulator to the battery and ground.

John

Thanks John.  I'll look into that.  I didn't check any wires to see if they are getting hot, which would not be a good thing.  Maybe I'll use the infrared thermometer on the wires, with one light on and then with both on.

[glavey]

You said that the voltage is lower than 12 volts with both lights on; is that the battery voltage or the voltage at the headlight? Also, is that at idle or while moving?

I have a 50cc scooter and I can run a 55w headlight, led taillights, and a somewhat power-hungry oil pump and still get 14+ volts at the battery while moving. I would imagine that your 150cc would have at least the same output from the stator if not more.

[dannytroy]

Aug 3, 2015 11:01:34 GMT -6 glavey said:

You said that the voltage is lower than 12 volts with both lights on; is that the battery voltage or the voltage at the headlight? Also, is that at idle or while moving?

I have a 50cc scooter and I can run a 55w headlight, led taillights, and a somewhat power-hungry oil pump and still get 14+ volts at the battery while moving. I would imagine that your 150cc would have at least the same output from the stator if not more.

Good question.  I never thought to check the voltage at the battery.  I installed a digital voltmeter on a flat spot above the storage glovebox, and took that feed from any wire I could find that had 12v when the key was turned on.  I don't know how much this will vary from voltage at the battery, but I'll check on that tomorrow.

When both headlights are on the voltage goes down to around 11 - 11.5 volts, when idling.  When cruising, I believe it goes up to maybe a little over 12v.  Normally, with one light on it's up near 13v, or maybe  higher.

[jerryscript]

Aug 3, 2015 8:42:17 GMT -6 dannytroy said:

If you're not familiar with this scooter, it has a low beam headlight on the left and a high beam on the right.  The headlight switch allows you to choose either beam.  The switch also has a spring-loaded setting where both beams are on at the same time.  I really like having two headlights, so I adjusted the high beam as low as it can go, and cut the small plastic tab that holds the spring, inside the switch.  Now I have a three-way switch, and am able to keep both headlights on.  I also no longer have people telling me I have a headlight out!  This is my first scooter where the stock bulbs (when using both) give enough illumination, and I didn't have to replace with better bulbs.  The problem, as you might guess, is the voltage when both lights are on, is lower than 12v.  I haven't had a problem draining the battery so far down as to cause a problem starting, but I can see that happening at some point.  The tail-light is already LED, so there's nothing I can do there to save juice.  There are two small "parking light" type bulbs under the headlights, which I supposed aren't needed with two headlights on at all times.  Would it be worth it to take those bulbs out, or possibly replace them with LEDs?
I supposed a new, higher quality rectifier would help also.  Using a rectifier from Oregon Motorcycle Parts helped my last scooter, so I guess it would help here too.  Any other ideas?

They give you a bit more sideways safety illumination at night on the side with the headlight turned off. If you have both headlights on, they become pointless, so I would remove them to save the juice.

I'm going to cut that spring loose too, always wanted a three-way switch, thanks for the tip!

[dannytroy]

Glavey, you were right on the money!   I just checked voltage at the battery while idling.  It showed 11.94v, while the voltmeter installed on the panel showed 10.3.  Quite a difference.  Looks like I didn't have a problem after all.  My wires might burn up, but I at least won't get stuck with a dead battery!!!

Jerry,  it's an easy mod.  Remove the two screws holding the switch case together (the rear, with the mirror, should remain on the handlebars) and use an Xacto knife to cut the plastic tab.  I forgot which of the two tabs I cut.  I likely cut the easier of the two to get to.  Works like a charm.  BTW, still enjoying the hell out of this bike.  The aching back (and neck) is doing much better with the 16" wheels.  Hope your still enjoying yours too.

[cyborg]

if there is a battery drain down issue go with led headlight bulbs,,,that will help a bunch

[tvnacman]

beef up the wire size, it will get better. If the wires are hot larger wire will be cooler. Now if you want to get more, some use dc cdi and 12 pole stator. The 11 pole stator with ac ignition puts out more than 12 pole. Then you can get the cdi off battery power.

John

[jerryscript]

Aug 4, 2015 7:45:37 GMT -6 dannytroy said:

Glavey, you were right on the money!   I just checked voltage at the battery while idling.  It showed 11.94v, while the voltmeter installed on the panel showed 10.3.  Quite a difference.  Looks like I didn't have a problem after all.  My wires might burn up, but I at least won't get stuck with a dead battery!!!

Jerry,  it's an easy mod.  Remove the two screws holding the switch case together (the rear, with the mirror, should remain on the handlebars) and use an Xacto knife to cut the plastic tab.  I forgot which of the two tabs I cut.  I likely cut the easier of the two to get to.  Works like a charm.  BTW, still enjoying the hell out of this bike.  The aching back (and neck) is doing much better with the 16" wheels.  Hope your still enjoying yours too.

Absolutely loving it! I have over 3000 miles on her, and haven't had any major issues. I get compliments on her everywhere I go!

[dannytroy]

Thanks for all the help guys. Call me lazy, but I'll probably just disconnect the two front parking lights the next time I have the front shell off, and call it a day.

Jerry, yes the scoot does get some compliments. When down in Key West this past winter I had a few people asking about it. They are used to seeing the 10" wheel scoots, especially since there are tons of 50cc scooters on the streets down there. With the saddlebags, it looks like a hybrid scooter/motorcycle.

[jerryscript]

I finally got around to doing this mod. I was able to get the spring out without breaking the tab, so I can return it to stock functionality if I have battery drainage. Definitely looks better with both lights on, and more visibility is always good. Thanks for the instructions dannytroy!

Note- anyone else trying this, if you try to remove the spring without fully disassembling the switch, be careful not to gouge the palm of your hand with whatever you use to pry it out. I've got a nice small hole in my palm right now!

[dannytroy]

Jerry, I sent you a PM describing my bulb fixture mod., adding a second adjustable bolt to the high beam fixture.  I didn't take a photo of the mod before putting the shell back on, but if you want to see it I can take the top piece off and take  photo from above.  I was able to tune the high beam exactly where I want it.  No longer blaring into the eyes of oncoming traffic. 

BTW, just took a rather long ride from Westchester County, where I live, to NYC.   I found that the ride was much less fatiguing that the same ride I took with my YY250T.  That said, I would still like to make my seat a little more comfortable.   The roads in this area pretty much suck, due to winter damage.  The new padding I added to the seat is better than stock, but not perfect.

[jerryscript]

So it seems if you keep all bulbs stock, you can slowly drain the battery with both headlights on all the time. Happened to me last week. I charged the battery back up, and have been running one light at a time since, no more battery problems yet.

I think I need to switch all bulbs but the headlights to LED, and remove those DRLs inside the projectors.

[dannytroy]

So far I haven't had a problem.  I do keep the front DRLs turned off, so that's a little savings there.  The tail/stop is already LED, from the factory, so that isn't a problem.  I carry a spare battery, just in case it won't start.  I don't trust the kick starter to work when you really need it to work.  So far I'm still loving this bike.  My only complaint is that I wish the seat was more comfortable.  Even after rebuilding with gel, it's still only "fair".