looking good man! thanks for posting all this it answers some things about the scoot i just picked up to "frankenstien" myself. question, that upper bearing race on the front tube, is it removeable? i want to cut the upper tube down a bit and lower the upper bearing, and cut the fork upper to match it. where it is threaded at the top on mine is broken anyway, so i will probably have to thread it... i had already planned on doing the fake upper triple tree as i saw was mentioned in an earlier post. i loved the idea of using sink plumbing pipe to mimic the inner shock tubes!!
I hope I can answer your question without confusing things. Bearing terminology is not my strong suit. You know where I said take a bunch of pictures? I didn't take a bunch of pictures at this point in the process....greasy hands....dentist appointment...harumph harumph..... I did dig this one up and tried to juice it up a little. If this post doesn't answer your questions let me know. The top bearing consisted of a brass colored cup at the top of the steering head which I believe is the race. That is not removable on my scoot, it is pressed firmly into the head. On top of that sits a ball cage ring, and then an axis ring:
The top of the steering head is threaded for the cap mentioned in the previous posts. The cap has a guide that fits onto the axis ring to hold it laterally, and then the retaining nut screws down on top of that via threads on the fork shaft to keep the whole damn thing from flying apart at WOT! If you were really good at fabrication you could cut a pice out of the steering head and lower the bearing, there's not a chance in hell I'd try that, I don't have the skills at this time.
I'm going to get the scoot running and then I might turn my attentions back to the front fork and a faux suspension. I searched till I was blue in the face for things that might work and turned up zilch. If you run into something or have some ideas please let me know. Rich
Post by benellibob on Feb 15, 2011 13:33:42 GMT -6
is that 28 dollars WITH the front fork shocks? that would be kinda hard to beat... but the question is, is the center tube the same diameter as to fit in the stock bearings? wow that kinda throws me off because i already had a pretty good idea of what i was going to do..... but for 28 dollars it might be more cost effective, even if more difficult, to adapt these forks...
that and im not sure if where my front shocks clamp isnt bent....
oh and thanks bashan for the explaination and pics! ur the man! its sounds like you might be interested in my modifications i am planning since we basically have the same scooter (jonway adventure 150)
Last Edit: Feb 15, 2011 13:35:15 GMT -6 by benellibob
Post by benellibob on Feb 15, 2011 19:26:07 GMT -6
did you happen to measure the neck on your scoot? this fork stem says 6.5 inches. something tells me the scoot is taller... just to make it a pain. i bet its thicker on this thing too. either way i think i might just skip trying to customize something that might be broke anyway. i mean i might take it apart and see if things are truly bent or just loosened and rotated...
No I haven't, I'll do that tomorrow when I start on it again. I really like that fork though, for the few bucks that it costs i might get it and see what I can do with it. I really like the fact that it has the motorcycle type handlebar clamps. I could put some chrome retro bars on...
Well, I guess I'll plod onward a bit here, time to get the engine in. I was going to put the engine on a jack and slide it into the lift and after wasting a half hour I had the wife come downstairs and put the two bolts through the frame (red arrow) while I held the motor mount (yellow arrow) with my left hand and the clutch spindle with my right; a GY6 engine is just not that heavy.
Then I wrapped some plastic chain around the spindle to hold the engine in place:
Well let's go over to the other side and get the brake on:
The rear drum brakes are an absolute no brainer, the bottom post is fixed while the top rotates with the brake arm:
It takes a little wrangling to get the shoes around the posts with the springs but eventually they pop into place. It can only go one way, there's no mistake possible that I could see. I did take the time to scruff the brake pads with some coarse sandpaper before I installed them. Here you can see before and after, I'm sure it will make a difference:
Now put the left shock on for greater stability:
Put a little grease on the axle and push the wheel on over the brake pads:
Then the spacer:
These holes on the swing arm correspond to these on the engine, again, it's a no brainer:
Put the nut on and tighten, it'll be easier to torque after we get the wheel down and the brake hooked up:
Post by benellibob on Feb 16, 2011 14:56:07 GMT -6
ok, this is the part i deff need to know....
where the red arrow is on the first pic, where you point to the bolt your wife helped you with... where the two rubber bumpers are.... IS THAT? i realize its the upper motor mount but im having trouble visualizing how it works, can you put a blown up pic of that? is that motor mount, the one with the big arch in it supposed to move back and forth alot? mine moves ALOT and it seems like it lets the whole motor "swingarm" move fore and aft... is this because something is worn out in mine?
OH btw, i was going to say lithium grease is probably fine for the bearings, but i would recommend a molydeum grease.... its a bit thicker and probably do better in the long run
I juiced these pics to bring out the mount more so they look kinda hinky. The Sino-mount that your asking about is on most GY6 engines and is called a silentbloc in the Haynes manual. That's the way they spell it, with no K. The conventional wisdom is that it provides a little extra cushion for the rider when a big bump is struck. BALDERDASH! After extensive study I feel the purpose of the mount design is to provide a cushion for the engine for forward thrust and engine braking. Anyway, you asked if it should be loose. It should rock forward and back limited by the bumpers but the engine shouldn't wobble and the bolts should only provide an up and down pivot. Here's a picture looking from front to back:
Now this is the same pic with a purple dot at the four pivots points. The bottom two are on each side of the long bolt that runs through the mount ears on the engine and the tube on the motor mount. The motor should pivot up and down but the bolt should not be loose. The upper two are near the bolts through the frame but you can't see them in this pic. Once again, they should allow a pivot motion but not wobble or be loose:
Here's a picture from the side showing the left frame bolt (red arrow), the bumper arm, and the rubber bumpers (green arrows). The bolt should be tight in the frame. Generally the bumper to the right rests up on the frame but when it rocks to the left the motor moves forward. That's why I think it provides a thrust cushion for the engine. Since this scooter is naked I plan on mounting a small vid cam trained on the bumper arm so I can see what it does while riding:
I hope this answers your questions, if not let me know, Rich