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Post by jhbietz on Aug 25, 2011 19:23:24 GMT -6
Ok, now I have to add my $.02 again. First of all like I said before if you live in the north country you may get 4 good months to ride. It really sucks to pay for tags and insurance for a full year. Secondly its not a thousand dollars. I sell a full upgrade that will get you 45mph for $350.00. Including labor to install. Lastly, where is the hot rodder in your soul? Anyone can just go purchase a 150 but only a true hot rodder will take a 50 and make it FAST.
As far as insurance and licensing is concerned. I know us riders with a MC endorsement like to think that make us better but in reality a 50cc is so light and easy to ride that anyone who is a good driver can ride just as safely as we do (with a little additional instruction). And really, how much damage is someone on a light weight 50 going to do to anyone other then themselves? I have owned some of the fastest bikes in the world and currently own 50, 150, and a 250. I will always love the little 50's for what you can do to them ( for minimal cost), there light weight, and the pure FUN of riding them.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 23, 2011 19:41:47 GMT -6
Sorry. I looked up a picture of yours but didn't read that its a 2 stroke. My wholesale supplier only caries the 4 stroke 139qmb scooters. I do believe that makes yours somewhat more valuable as the 2 strokes are somewhat more difficult to find and they do have a loyal following.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 23, 2011 18:49:00 GMT -6
I sell a 2011 model very similar for $700.00 brand new.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 23, 2011 12:51:39 GMT -6
There are legit reasons for upgrading a 50cc rather then going to a 150. In South Dakota you don't have to licence anything under 50cc and you don't need a motorcycle endorsement. The big thing is not needing to register the scoot. Its not costing anything when its stored for the winter.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 23, 2011 10:59:18 GMT -6
Take a look at the "naked" scooter under customs. On the last page I listed all the mods to the engine. It will crude nicely at 40mph and top out with me on it (250#) at 47mph. It took allot of $ in parts and many hours of fine tuning and I can't guarantee the reliability.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 23, 2011 5:39:29 GMT -6
I think the problem is in the ground. There is probably a green wire hooked up incorrectly some ware. The starter relay is powered any time the switch is on and the button actually completes the ground. The easy fix would be run a new ground wire from the start button to the starter relay. I can give you some better instruction after work today as I have the same scoot sitting in my garage.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 19, 2011 21:51:04 GMT -6
In my experience you won't have any problems. If you want to be absolutely sure you can use modeling clay on top of the piston to be sure. Just put a small amount of the clay on top of the piston, install the gasket and head then rotate the engine one full revolution by hand. Disassemble the head and check the clay to see how much clearance you have. Not really necessary in your case. The only time I have went that far is when I milled the head and didn't use a gasket between the cylinder and the crankcase.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 19, 2011 21:40:38 GMT -6
It can sure happen. When I do a big bore kit for a customer I always end up adjusting the valves again after breaking in the engine. They all seam to tighten up for some reason.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 19, 2011 12:48:29 GMT -6
Did you put a new head on or just reinstall the original one? Sure wouldn't be a bad ida to check the valve clearance. On a new head I like to lap the valves just to be safe.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 16, 2011 20:18:13 GMT -6
Keep us posted. I have no ida if its going to hold long term on a 150. I have had excellent results using copper cote though so who knows it may be ok.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 15, 2011 21:04:08 GMT -6
Most of the aftermarket CDI's I have tested are unrestricted. Not a good deal with silly customers. I have replaced several crankshafts this summer due to over roving of the engine. In my experience 9000 rpm is max, 10,000 rpm is iffy, and 11,000 rpm things go BOOM. This is for the 50's not enouf experience on the 150's to know what they will stand.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 15, 2011 20:54:36 GMT -6
I agree with Rich in that if you want to run a oil cooler you need an additional pump. Check out his latest mods in the Customs section. The title of your post did give me an ida though. What do you think about adding 2" finns to the bottom of the crank case with JB weld like rich did on his cylinder. This would in theory turn the sump into a heat sink.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 10, 2011 5:31:48 GMT -6
I'm haven't tried it on a 150 but have reused head gaskets many times on the 50cc engines. Always clean everything spotless and remove any oil film with break cleaner. I then coat both sides of the gasket with copper coat.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 7, 2011 9:15:40 GMT -6
Sometimes they are called "starter bendix" its the part that is turned by the starter motor and engages the gear in front of the variateor.
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Post by jhbietz on Aug 7, 2011 0:43:54 GMT -6
Yes. Make sure you are at TDC (top dead center). The cam should have the big hole strait up (90• from the head) and the 2 smaller hole should be parallel with each other and the head.
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