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Post by benellibob on Feb 17, 2011 21:39:55 GMT -6
im not sure but i swore when i looked at it, the bumpers were much further away from their landing spots. methinks this scooter is more bent than i thought.... JUST MEANS I GET TO CHOP IT UP MORE!!!
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Post by benellibob on Feb 18, 2011 3:55:54 GMT -6
well, i figured out what was wrong... after a complete teardown, i discovered why the whole thing moves fore and aft so much. THE FORWARD BUMPER ON THE BUMPER ARM IS ALMOST BROKE THE HELL OFF. not just the rubber, the actual metal! anyone got a spare motor mount? the frame itself is also bent. the front upright is slightly tweaked, as is the fork tube, and the triple tree. i am seriously looking at that suzuki k-10 front end, but alas there is no provision for the brake caliper. and unless i build it as a chopper it looks as if it may be a bit too tall as its meant for a large wheel scoot. anyone got a front end they can donate? info was great bashan, but now i must start over. im not sure this thing is worth fixing back to original. looks like its going to be all custom from here.
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Post by Bashan on Feb 18, 2011 12:47:57 GMT -6
After a complete teardown, i discovered why the whole thing moves fore and aft so much. THE FORWARD BUMPER ON THE BUMPER ARM IS ALMOST BROKE THE HELL OFF. not just the rubber, the actual metal! I magnified the picture in your first post and it does appear that the mount is broke. I'd say weld a static one in so the engine has something to pivot on but if the rest of the frame is that bad you better part out for safety's sake.anyone got a spare motor mount? Actually you can get them....sorta:They always seem to be out of stock no matter where you look. I Googled Ebay and didn't see anything either. Maybe one of you guys out there know where there's some.I just gutta say...Dam that engine looks nice! Guess I'm going to have to copy you again. Well thanks! You made my day. Just for that I'll post some more pics. Actually, I had prepared a post a day or so ago and never got around to putting on the thread. It'll seem a little out of sequence but I'll post it below. Rich
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Post by Bashan on Feb 18, 2011 12:53:48 GMT -6
Well I seemed to have dropped the ball by losing a couple pictures. I'm sure they're bumping around the Bucket somewhere and I'll eventually run into them. But I lowered the lift enough to line the holes up for the right shock and bolted it in. I had noticed this high temp "cast coat aluminum" Rustoleum at Wally World and picked it up. I decided to squirt the stock muffler with it and just see what it looked like. I thought the flat look was kinda cool so I bolted the sucker up. I find it's easiest with a muffler to put the flange on loosely with the two tower nuts, then swing the back up and put the long bolt in without tightening. There's also some other bolts for the muffler and fender bracket, these vary depending on your scooter but they can only go together one way. Make sure the flange on your muffler or header pipe is flat before you install it on the exhaust port. If it's bent at all you'll get leaks and it'll backfire:I did remember to install a exhaust gasket before installing the muffler. Use a little red RTV to hold it in place while getting things assembled. There's been some debate about which side goes into the port, the metal or soft material. I ask a few dealers and got answers both ways. To tell you the truth I can't remember which way I put this one in, I just stuck it up there. If you think you don't have the recess for the gasket...YOU DO! It's there, you'll just have to clean the old gasket and carbon out to install the new one:Well the whole point of this phase was the aluminum tank I bought. So I guess it's time to strap it on:
Well, enough of that. Now I gotta figure out which way I'm going to go with this thing. Rich
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Post by Cruiser on Feb 18, 2011 22:29:49 GMT -6
Did you check out Scrappy Dog? I think this is the one you're looking for. Scroll almost to the bottom of the page: www.scrappydogscooters.com/125_150_4-STROKE_PARTS.htmlThey seem to have the engine mount at this site also: www.trendtimes.com/gy6-engine-mount.htmlI went all the way to the checkout without the out of stock warning. Actually you can get them....sorta:They always seem to be out of stock no matter where you look. I Googled Ebay and didn't see anything either. Maybe one of you guys out there know where there's some. Rich [/b][/quote]
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Post by benellibob on Feb 18, 2011 23:17:34 GMT -6
im about to go take pics for you guys now so you can see just how fubared this bike is. its repairable but i dont think its worth it to me. once i get it running i think im going to build a custom frame. anyone need an 08 Jonway adventure frame? i will straighten it before sale! everything minus front forks!!!
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Post by benellibob on Feb 20, 2011 23:26:56 GMT -6
as promised, the broken mount: its also slightly bent where it mounts to the motor. go figure. oh and here is a preview of my upcoming build: the moto-scooteR!
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Post by Bashan on Feb 23, 2011 14:42:06 GMT -6
Wow, now THAT is a broken motor mount! That must have been a helluva bump that guy hit. I saved your pic for my reference material, it'll have a nice "from Benelli Bob" under it ;D. Now, on to the second picture....what is that!? It looks like a belt driven CVT, is that right? Rich
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Post by benellibob on Feb 23, 2011 23:03:21 GMT -6
its an 08 jonway! same as yours! haha no but really its a 50cc pocket bike frame in front of it lined up to show the scale i am going for. since my front forks are bent, the pocket bike will provide forks. my shocks i believe are ok, and i want to reuse them. right now i am trying to figure out some clamps that will adapt the smaller forks of the pocket to fit the larger scoot shocks.
at first i was going to use the rear half of the jonway frame, and reuse the taillight and possibly rear panels. the second part is still a possibility, but i ended up using the old swingarm of the pocketbike to strengthen the tail as well as provide rear shock mounts. i cut up and turned the motor mount around and made a whole new mount with a different bumper system. i actually re-used the rubber bumpers themselves all the bushings i am replacing with polyurethane sway bar bushings. i believe it will do well locating the motor and still providing some comfort, going thru four poly bushings and two of the rubber bumpers. i started a build thread on scoot-dawg, but i reckon i will need to start a mirror here for you guys and stop taking up your thread!
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Post by Bashan on Feb 25, 2011 16:22:05 GMT -6
You can share my thread, I don't care. I think there's room for both of us and probably a few more ;D. I,ve got just a few pics to post before I take a boatload over the weekend of what I hope is the final product. I've kinda made this thing up as I went along with no definative plan so it's always been a work in progress.
One thing I've tried to work around was the chrome intake manifold I bought. I think they're a good idea because they're not so prone to leaking. However, on my scooter the manifold jambed the CV carb back into the motor mount making it impossible to use without some kind of modification. I ground a little off of the motor mount, I ground a little off of the carb bowl, and I used a plastic spacer to raise the manifold a little. Finally, I'd had it and I went nukelar as "W" would put it. On this diagram I made with the paint program, the red square on the left illustration is the part of the chrome manifold that pushes the carb back. So I cut it off with a bandsaw and filed it smooth so that it looked like the illustration on the right:
Now, how to attach the carb to the manifold? How about let's make it permanent with JB Weld. I've got a brand new Walbro waiting in the wings, if this little experiment doesn't play out he'll be called off the bench. First, the yellow dot shows where the chrome manifold jambs the carburetor into the motor mount:
Now this yellow dot shows the junture where the carb was JB'd to the manifold:
IMPORTANT!: The JB Weld later failed and the carb and manifold came apart. Although this did not cause a safety issue you might get stranded. I would not advise using JB Weld for this application.
Here's a top view of the result, you can see there's now plenty of room for the carb:
And here's one from the front:
One final shot I've got bumping around, I got the CVT on, decided to go black on aluminum:
Hopefully I can finish this project up and see if it cranks. Rich
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Post by jhbietz on Feb 26, 2011 12:07:08 GMT -6
Your scoots coming together very nice! I like the contrasting black on silver (aluminium). Please keep un informed on how the intake manifold holds up. If the JB weld can hold up to the heat and vibration of a GY6 I will be very impressed. I have always liked the stuff but never tested its limits.
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Post by benellibob on Feb 26, 2011 12:11:57 GMT -6
i would be SERIOUSLY worried about there not being any rubber between the carb and intake, being that the carb hangs off the intake with no other support. the weight at the end of the carb will have a good bit of leverage to pull against that JB weld. i would at least put some sort of support to hold up the filter side of the carb. it just seems to me that it will put a lot of stress on that JB weld, bouncing along as most scoots do on these rough roads that the taxpayer dollars never get to fix! also the natural vibration from the motor itself.
its only my opinion, but i would expect to see cracks develop over time, if not quite soon after you start riding it. consider a backup plan in case it fails.
im still working out my own motor mount... after some "imagineering" im sure i will figure out how to properly brace my motor since the stock mount is pretty rough. i am going to be able to re-use the part that connects to the motor but will have to change the rest. wish me luck
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Post by Bashan on Feb 27, 2011 3:22:59 GMT -6
I was skeptical about using JB Weld but after a few applications I quit worrying about whether it would hold up on the scooter or anything else for that matter. Here's the JB Weld frequently asked questions page. You can see it withstands temperatures exceeding 500 degrees which is far greater than anything north of the exhaust. I'm not sure how the tensile strength listed translates into real world durability but I do know that once it's cured you work on it with a grinder and the parts you join will fail before the JB. I'm sure the stuff has it's limits but I've yet to find them. I'd be stunned if any of the places I've used it on came apart. Rich
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 27, 2011 3:40:57 GMT -6
From reading the JB Weld frequently asked questions, the stuff is fantastic. That must be the biggest Fuel Filter I have ever seen where what race car did that come from ;D Alleyoop
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Post by Bashan on Feb 27, 2011 20:48:09 GMT -6
That must be the biggest Fuel Filter I have ever seen where what race car did that come from? ;D Ha, good eye my friend! I snuck that into a couple pics to see if anyone would notice and if they did it wasn't mentioned. I saw that at Wally World in the auto department with the fuel filters, air cleaners, and spark plugs. It's actually for an older Ford Bronco but for $9 I couldn't pass it up since I had an aluminum theme going. I figured if it worked....fine. if it didn't I was out a ten spot. I went on about a 25 mile ride today and it ran great so I guess the fuel filter passed the test. I got a bunch of pictures but it's late and I'm pooped so I'm going to post a few and do the rest over the next couple of days. I guess I'm done with this thing, at least for a while.
Here's the springer front end I promised Old Chopper Guy aka Leo who, by the way, designed our masthead:
I've got a few more pics and I'll go over the temperature sensor and the wiring job next time. If anybody has any questions just post them and I'll address them when I finish this thread. Rich
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