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Post by madcollie on Feb 27, 2011 21:42:38 GMT -6
Oh oh oh me me me !
DO YOU STOCK IN WIRE TIES? ;D
Inquiring young minds want to know.
M/C
Damn, I so gotta get a tank like that.
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Post by earthman on Feb 27, 2011 23:12:47 GMT -6
hi BASHAN
in last pisture-
I have never seen a vac line go into a dia head like that please explain.
1 how is filter held on?
2 why so many ground wires
3 does it help to have rectifier so close to spark.
4 what is a rectifier
5 what do all those springs do on fork.
6 is that some sort of CAL CARB system behind carb?
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 27, 2011 23:39:05 GMT -6
Well I can explain what he did with that hose from the Intake to the top of the Diaphgram. SMARK COOKY our chief BASHAN is What that does is as the engine starts to crank out the rpms the suction helps raise the needle for quick fuel feed Rich, how do you like it does it help or have you noticed any disadvantages or advantages doing that? Alleyoop
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Post by Bashan on Mar 1, 2011 15:03:05 GMT -6
DO YOU OWN STOCK IN WIRE TIES? ;D I wish I did, I'd probably save a boatload of money!Damn, I so gotta get a tank like that. Well here you go.... Clickable image I have never seen a vac line go into a dia head like that please explain. My wife and I were walking through Lowes and she remarked that the braided toilet tank supply lines in the plumbing department looked like something that would go on my scooter engine. So I epoxyed one into place for looks. I must say Alleyoop should get a prize for a remarkably feasible and intuitive explanation as to what it might be.I'm not sure if you mean the fuel filter or air filter but everything is pretty much hose clamps and zip ties (shut up M/C).why so many ground wires? If you ever take all the plastic off of your scooter and take apart the wiring you'll probably run into something like this:
That's the infamous Chinese soldered common ground about halfway back on the frame. What you see on my scooter is the same manifestation of several circuits grounded at the same point. I just bolted them to the frame rather than weld them together. That way if I ever want to dismantle it I just get the 10mm socket out.does it help to have rectifier so close to spark? No, although the rectifier is bolted in close proximity to the spark plug on my scooter, it has nothing to do with creating the spark. All of that occurs from the stator directly to the CDI. The coil makes the spark so you want it to run directly to the plug via the plug wire. I do like to have a ground wire close to the plug coming off of one of the valve cover bolts and then run it as close to the battery as possible.A rectifier converts alternating current to direct current through the use of electrical one way gates called diodes. My eight pole stator generates only AC current but the battery charging system needs DC so the regulator/rectifier (R/R) not only converts the current but regulates it to 12 volts, or pretty close to that at least. what do all those springs do on fork? Absolutley nothing other than look like a fake springer front end, and not doing a very good job of that.is that some sort of CAL CARB system behind carb? Actually that was the PAIR apparatus housing off of my Motorino, but is now my oil catch can. Here's a photo from a few days ago:
The yellow arrow points to the fake whatthehellisthatthingamabob braided line and the red arrow points to the crankcase breather nipple. The sky blue dots show the path of the breather line and the green arrow is the PAIR housing (oil catch can). The purple arrow points to a brace I was using for the seat to rest on but I decided that was too damn ugly and moved the brace to the seat itself which I'll show in a later pic. Rich
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 1, 2011 16:47:41 GMT -6
My wife and I were walking through Lowes and she remarked that the braided toilet tank supply lines in the plumbing department looked like something that would go on my scooter engine. So I epoxyed one into place for looks. I must say Alleyoop should get a prize for a remarkably feasible and intuitive explanation as to what it might be.WHAT ITS A FAKE!! Okey I take back the SMART COOKY PART Alleyoop Oh and EM was asking HOW your Air Filter EXTENSION is held up. Alleyoop
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Post by benellibob on Mar 1, 2011 18:01:46 GMT -6
please tell me there is some sort of rubber between your metal intake pipe and the carb... and something supporting the air filter and metal intake pipe other than the carb itself... if not, you do realize you are simply adding a longer "breaker bar" as well as weight onto your already questionable JB welded carb/intake i do realize its easier to pull the intake than to get the carb and intake apart, but i still wouldnt want that to be a solid connection. it worries me. i think about it every day wondering if you will get stranded....
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Post by madcollie on Mar 1, 2011 19:47:08 GMT -6
DO YOU OWN STOCK IN WIRE TIES? ;D I wish I did, I'd probably save a boatload of money! Rich [/b][/quote] HEHEHE Solution is already on the way! ;D One little thing I can do for the doctor that has done soooo much to keep me sick! ;D M/C
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 1, 2011 21:11:23 GMT -6
Benellibob, I think I see a round piece of metal hooked to the V bar going across the frame and going under the metal Intake Pipe close to the carb. You can see it better if you zoom on the last picture by the Green Arrow. Alleyoop
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Post by Bashan on Mar 2, 2011 15:54:39 GMT -6
I'm going to do a few posts here to get this started on another page so it doesn't take so long to load. OK all you worry warts, here's a pic that kinda shows the air cleaner supports. There's a short rubber hose connecting the carb to the curved, aluminum pipe, and then a mega zip tie running from the frame bracket to the air cleaner. The red arrows point to the zip tie and the yellow arrow points to one of the hose clamps. So don't worry, I'm not going to break down because of the carb and air cleaner. But it is nice that you're thinking of my well being.
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Post by Bashan on Mar 2, 2011 16:03:40 GMT -6
I'm gonna finish this up and try to get some yard work done! Let's do the wiring. The front and rear busbars are a nifty way to tie circuits together. Here's the rear busbar lurking under the mid-frame common ground. All of the stator wires tie directly onto it and then move on; also the rear lights hook onto it:
Here's the front busbar that has the control box wires hooked on and ties the front of the scooter to the back:
While we're on wiring, as you're probably aware, the GY6 makes its spark directly from stator to CDi to coil to plug. It does not run through the ignition switch. So to stop the engine without a ground on the key, I had to install a kill switch. Here's the back of it hooked up to the ground and kill wire to the CDI:
And here's the switch from the side:
Now I told JH I wasn't going to use a battery box, you can see the red wire runs directly to the solenoid and the fuse wire splits off and runs to the rectifier:
I think this next part came out really cool. I found this old Radio Shack multimeter while cleaning out the basement and thought I might put it to use as a dash board if I gutted it. I put a giant switch right in the middle that acts as the ignition, and then the horn button and starter button sit above it. There's even room for my Tom Tom which I use as a speedometer. I found the voltmeter and oil temperature gauge on sale at an auto parts store in Talladega:
Now, to show you that the system actually works, here's a pic with the switch on and the engine warmed up. You can see the voltmeter and temp gauge working:
Speaking of the temp gauge, it was a little too late to start tapping into the engine case, so I put an O-ring around the temp probe and stuck it down the dipstick spout. It seals really nice and the O-ring is too big to slip down into the engine:
I decided I couldn't live with that ugly metal bar hanging over the engine bay for the seat to sit down on. So I attached it to the underside of the seat and it rests down on rubber pads when the seat is down:
I think it makes for a lot cleaner look in the engine area:
Oh, by the way, this is definately the last manifestation of the fake braided steel hose. The black line coming from the front of the engine is actually my crankcase breather and the old Motorino PAIR housing is actually my oil catch can. The braided hose running from the PAIR housing to the enricher mount is a sham. And yes, I still think an enricher is not necessary in the climate that I live in:
I got a couple more shots and then I'm done, I promise. Here's a good shot of the fake springer front end. I've already had a couple people come up and ask me how it works. One guy just walked up, stared at it, and walked away shaking his head:
Here's a good view of the engine cooling fins and the Tiny Tach wire around the plug wire:
Here's a cool artsy fartsy pic that also shows the cooling fins. They work really well by the way, the temp gauge never got over 210 on a 25 mile ride:
Well, that's it, I'm done, I've lost all purpose in life.... . I guess I'll just have to start tearing another scooter apart. Rich
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Post by jhbietz on Mar 2, 2011 17:24:41 GMT -6
Congratulations on having it back on the road! Wish I could say the same. I LOVE the springer from end. It makes me chuckle every time I see it.
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Post by earthman on Mar 3, 2011 0:53:24 GMT -6
eh bashan we love ya man, but ah, ---baby crib springs that do nothing? folks shaking heads, toilet tubing on carbs? is not that engine gonna get real hot with out a shroud? ?
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Post by benellibob on Mar 3, 2011 21:13:01 GMT -6
he said it stays plenty cool. as long as you are moving im sure its fine. the only time to worry about not having a fan and shroud would be sitting in traffic. even then, without body panels there is a lot more air getting to the motor.
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Post by Bashan on Mar 4, 2011 13:41:12 GMT -6
Is not that engine gonna get real hot with out a shroud? That's why I installed this:
If it starts nosing up around 220 I'll have to think about an oil cooler with fan. The wife and I mainly tour around through the countryside so there's not a lot of stop and go traffic. Anyway, there's always the water cooled Pegasus for scorching 'Bama days. It was a frivolous, fun project and I had a blast; that's all I wanted out of it. Rich
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Post by benellibob on Mar 6, 2011 9:48:51 GMT -6
i would find a better horn button you can mount on the handlebar. i have my car horn on my horn switch, and ran the factory tweet horn on a switch just below the handlebars for tooting at girls. ive found its not very easy to reach for it while riding and can be dangerous trying! other than that, i love the dashboard. wait im confused, here is what you wrote: "I put a giant switch right in the middle that acts as the ignition, and then the horn button and starter button sit above it." did you mean horn button AS a starter button? that would make more sense, since i only see the one button...
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