The Trail Tech R/R converts all of the incoming AC voltage to DC. None of it splits off on the yellow wire for AC lighting. Also, this rectifier is full wave so you get extra power by not shunting the negative cycle of the AC waveform to the frame. You can use DC LED lights if you choose to that use very little juice and save the rest for big draw items like my 10 amp oil pump. Also, I like the idea of being able to have one power panel hooked up to the electrical source and wire everything to it with the proper fuses. Here is a diagram of the Trail Tech R/R wired in for HID lighting:
Now I'm not using HID lighting so I will energize an access panel with the red and black wires and run all my circuits off of that. With all DC you have the advantages of cleaner power in case you want to use accessories like a radio, the ability to use low power LEDs, or an HID system if you wish. I'm mainly doing this for the oil pump. Also, I like the challenge of trying to make a stock GY6 stator work with some minial rewiring. If this proves out to be feasible it'll give scooterists the option of going DC without the hassle of an 11 coil stator and all the bugaboos that seem to go with it. Rich
I finished this on another board but I've been meaning to answer your question and tie the loose ends on this thread. First I had to pull the stator and adapt it so that it would work with the Trail Tech R/R to get full wave rectification and all DC. The color coded diagram below shows what must be done:
Remove the ground wire (green dot) by heating solder and then attach an extension wire. The wire must NOT be grounded to the stator body (light blue dot) in any way.
Remove the white wire (white dot) and attach an extension wire. The wire must Not be grounded to the stator body (light blue dot) in any way.
Remove the yellow wire center tap (yellow dot) from the winding and make sure the winding is not grounded to the stator body (light blue dot).
The red/black wire from the magneto coil is left intact.
The idea is the make the winding around the seven poles one continuous ungrounded wire so that it can attach to the two yellow leads of the Trail Tech R/R.
Here's the yellow wire center tap being removed:
Then attach the extension wires to the released green and white wires:
Reinstall the stator and feed the wires up through the retainer along with the red/black AC feed to the CDI and the trigger wire. The CDI remains AC it's just that there will be no AC wire for the lights:
Then run the usual wires to the CDI which I mounted under the seat:
Then the two yellows off of the stator, which were the green and white before the conversion, attach to the Trail Tech regulator/rectifier (R/R):
The red and black off of the R/R simply attach right to the battery. One of the challenging things about this project was that the Trail Tech system cannot be frame grounded as you can see in their schematic:
So I made a ground busbar to hook all of the grounds to and run a primary off of that to the battery:
Here's a few shots of the finished project with oil cooler and fan:
And then the dashboard showing the stator and Trail Tech keeping up nicely with a 10 amp oil pump, a 3 amp fan, some lights, and a temp sensor system:
Post by devamotoring on Nov 14, 2016 13:14:46 GMT -6
Im new here ....im from puerto rico and scooter fever is big here lots of custom scoots....i saw the whole thread but my question is why are you going trough such a complicate process? And why not make it look better and clean