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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 23, 2016 22:03:07 GMT -6
Leave the connector alone and just clear bar wire on each and connect the toggle with two pieces of wire to each. That way when and if you get a new switch you can just plug it back in.
Just peel off some of the protective covering and splice in the toggle wires.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 23, 2016 22:11:18 GMT -6
Or you can use quick connects  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 22:13:02 GMT -6
LOL! Your way is so sensible! Brute force and backlashing my hand into the handlebars when they let go, worked!
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 23, 2016 22:27:19 GMT -6
Great!! well you have done a lot today and fixed yet another problem and verified a lot of good parts working. It is late around here so I will be signing off I will check your thread tomorrow for any updates and or questions.
Alleyoop
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 22:35:08 GMT -6
Okay Alleyoop ! Thank you so much! Sleep well and see ya tomorrow  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 24, 2016 1:22:27 GMT -6
I ordered a set of switches for $10, WOW! Can't hurt to have spares around, eh ? After hooking up the switch above and activating it, nothing happened, no solenoid. I do have another toggle that springs back to what I believe is called "Normally open" when let go, I think. There is no continuity until I press the switch. The start button only needs to be active while starting, yes? Thus, that one will do better anyway? Today, Wednesday, I probably will be needing to go do a big favor for my sister and return in the eve, hopefully. You can bet, I'll check in |
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Post by richardv on Feb 24, 2016 5:34:03 GMT -6
I very strongly suggest you use a momentary switch instead of an off/on. An off/on switch can be bumped and turned ON at any time. A momentary toggle or push button is the safest. Please don't ask how I know this.  |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 24, 2016 12:39:35 GMT -6
I ordered a set of switches for $10, WOW! Can't hurt to have spares around, eh ? After hooking up the switch above and activating it, nothing happened, no solenoid. I do have another toggle that springs back to what I believe is called "Normally open" when let go, I think. There is no continuity until I press the switch. The start button only needs to be active while starting, yes? Thus, that one will do better anyway? Today, Wednesday, I probably will be needing to go do a big favor for my sister and return in the eve, hopefully. You can bet, I'll check in Just checking because it should work  -- You are turning the key on and squeezing the brakes then hitting the toggle right?  Other than the above then a connection is not making good contact. Yes a spring loaded one would be better. Alleyoop |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 24, 2016 14:06:37 GMT -6
Well taken, richardv ! And "Momentary", that's the word I was looking for! Thanks! Yes, Alleyoop , but I got an erratic reading when I disconnected and tested that first switch with my meter so,I think it's bad. I haven't tried the other yet. I'll have to give it a go when I get back later. |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 24, 2016 14:13:15 GMT -6
Easy enough to find out if the switch is bad JUST MANUALLY touch both wires it should activate the SOLENOID.
Alleyoop
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 24, 2016 14:29:43 GMT -6
One thing that does keep entering my mind as I try to comprehend this circuit is, that green/white wire coming from the kill switch. I know I got a continuity reading from it but , isn't it the voltage to the start switch ? I don't get voltage from it, in either of its positions  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 24, 2016 14:30:44 GMT -6
I did ! There was nothing. That prompted me to check the green/white one |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 24, 2016 14:33:38 GMT -6
It's also why I bought a SET of switches, in case we find that the kill switch is the unruly child here , lol! I think I found that suspect after you had retired for the eve. |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 24, 2016 14:52:09 GMT -6
One thing that does keep entering my mind as I try to comprehend this circuit is, that green/white wire coming from the kill switch. I know I got a continuity reading from it but , isn't it the voltage to the start switch ? I don't get voltage from it, in either of its positions The start push button switch IS JUST A GROUND OFF AND ON no switch voltage at the START BUTTON. What sends voltage to the SOLENOID is the BRAKE SWITCH it also splits and sends voltage to the stop lights, that is why we always ask if when you squeeze the brakes(either one) your stop lights come on. Now the Killswitch IF you have a AC CDI all that does is JUST LIKE the PUSH BUTTON it makes ground and grounds the CDI to kill the motor same thing happens with the KEY OFF it grounds out the CDI to kill the motor. Now if the CDI is DC(meaning it is powered by the battery) then when you turn the KEY ON the bottom PLUG on the TWO PLUG on the CDI if tested should read 12volts with the KEY ON.  |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 24, 2016 15:07:21 GMT -6
Normally You can have the KILLSWITCH on the NO RUN position (GROUNDING THE CDI) and you are able to crank the motor over but it will not start because the PLUG is NOT FIRING. But you already proved that the SOLENOID is getting voltage with the brakes squeezed and you grounded the RED/YELLOW wire)GROUND WIRE FROM THE PUSH BUTTON and it SPUN the starter. So that is why we are checking the push button and the TWO WIRES to make sure there is no CONNECTION breaks from the switch to the SOLENOID. HERE IS THE KILLSWITCH TUTORIAL: www.chinesescooterreference.com/jr/KillSwitch.pdf |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
-- You are turning the key on and squeezing the brakes then hitting the toggle right? 
