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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 14, 2016 14:59:57 GMT -6
Does the INTAKE MANIFOLD the piece that bolts to the motor HAVE A VACUUM CONNECTOR? If the VACUUM PORT built into the CARB where you have the hose connected to IS IT PLUGGED UP? If so then you cannot use it as a VACUUM SOURCE. If plugged up you can drill it out so you can use it as a VACUUM PORT.
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Post by nobodyspecial on Mar 14, 2016 18:35:21 GMT -6
No there is no connector on the MANIFOLD. Today's job is to drill out the carb as you said to create a vacuum port. Stay tuned ....
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 14, 2016 18:39:13 GMT -6
Great, then it should operate the PETCOCK and get gas to the carb
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Post by nobodyspecial on Mar 15, 2016 0:28:02 GMT -6
Ok I drilled a hole in the vacuum "barb" and when I cranked it over the fuel trickled out at a very slow rate. I sucked on the vacuum tube and it streamed out at the required rate. A new carb at the dealer was $280 so I ordered an original Mikuni one from AliExpress for $50 odd USD that will arrive in 10 odd days from China. I was worried about the oil delivery barb as well so the new one will eliminate that worry.
What's gone wrong?
As I said previously I replaced a faulty fuel tap. I think what may have been happening before is the faulty diaphragm was allowing some fuel past it like a gravity feed thus I was able to start the bike, ride it for a few minutes and then it stopped. Now the tap has been replaced, the lack of vacuum has stopped the diaphragm opening and fuel delivery all together. I still don't understand why it won't kick with the ether spray though.
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Post by cyborg on Mar 15, 2016 7:00:46 GMT -6
Carb still off?,,check the reeds,,,behind the carb in the reed block on the cylinder,,,a cracked or chunked (broken) reed petal will create such a condition
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Post by cyborg on Mar 15, 2016 7:08:26 GMT -6
Also I read you have a strong spark and no fire even with ether,,could be out of time
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Post by nobodyspecial on Mar 15, 2016 7:31:54 GMT -6
Carb still off?,,check the reeds,,,behind the carb in the reed block on the cylinder,,,a cracked or chunked (broken) reed petal will create such a condition Hi, thanks, I had the reed block out yesterday. I am running carbon fibre reeds and they are in great shape. I held the block up to the light and there are no gaps ...
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Post by nobodyspecial on Mar 15, 2016 7:32:51 GMT -6
Also I read you have a strong spark and no fire even with ether,,could be out of time God I hope not ...
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 15, 2016 12:29:59 GMT -6
That is a 2 stroke the only way it can get out of time is if the WOODRUFF key is damaged or sheared and the flywheel moved on the crank shaft(not likely) in my opinion UNLESS of course work was done on the STATOR and or FLYWHEEL and did not put the woodruff key in right and or never put it back on. Alleyoop
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Post by cyborg on Mar 15, 2016 13:22:56 GMT -6
I agree with you alley but strong spark,, ether and no fire,,, I'd be checking the flywheel,,, altho I think the root problem is fuel delivery,,, as is being investigated,,,
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 15, 2016 15:36:41 GMT -6
Yep, sure sounds like just a fuel delivery problem to me. Also I would not have gotten a Mikuni Carb they are a pain in the arse.
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Post by nobodyspecial on Mar 15, 2016 17:43:41 GMT -6
Flywheel and rotor have never been touched.
I got the Mikuni as it is the factory one so I could eliminate any anomalies that might surface with an alternate. I am starting to fear that the induction through the crankcase is not strong enough to create the vacuum which means something sinister beyond a crook carb is in play. I still seem to have compression (via feel of the kick starter and finger over the plug hole) and I haven't had smoke pouring out the pipe or an oil leak that may be an indication of a crank seal. Heck I'll get the new carb in a week or two and if that isn't the solution I'll pull the motor out for an autopsy.
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 15, 2016 17:55:30 GMT -6
Can you take a picture of the LEFT side of the carb the side facing the CVT. Do you know if it has an AIR RATIO SCREW or a FUEL RATIO SCREW? If an AIR RATIO SCREW it will be by the AIR INLET SIDE if FUEL RATIO SCREW it will be by the INTAKE MANIFOLD SIDE. It also should have a IDLE SPEED screw about the center of the carb.
Also I hope you have the muffler and pipe on as well as the air filter. Alleyoop
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Post by nobodyspecial on Mar 17, 2016 1:51:14 GMT -6
There is an air adjusting screw. The manual says have this out 1 & 1/2 turns +- 1/2 turn. I found the position where the engine was revving the highest and it was at 1 and 1/2 turns.
There is of course an idle adjusting screw (pictured)
I have the exhaust off at the moment as I have made a minor welding repair to a mount and while it is off I have painted it.
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Post by jct842 on Mar 17, 2016 9:20:16 GMT -6
I have had several 2 strokes that had bad crank seals. Great compression on the top and no way they would run. One was a lawn mower that I would turn over and knock the seal back in and then it ran. I ended up using a chisel to crimp it in place so seal would not fall out. The other a small motorcycle that I had to replace the seal.
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