Here listen to HOBBLES Fuel Mixture problem, he also has a clogged PILOT and or passages.
His IDLE(RPMS) will only go up when it is closed but that is because it is RUNNING REALLY LEAN not enough fuel. So listen as he close the screw and the idle will go up. That is what your looking for but not CLOSED Normally it should be anywhere between 2-3 turns out that the highes rpms are achieved.
Post by olivertwisted on Apr 29, 2016 0:10:45 GMT -6
Lol! Yup, no adjustment there! Well, I've been through the carb and am gonna wait to put it back on. Look what I spied underneath in there ! Is there anything I should do here before putting the carb back on?
Last Edit: Apr 29, 2016 0:17:41 GMT -6 by olivertwisted
That is your intake VALVE, to do anything would mean taking the head off and working on the valves. Most would just put an new head on they are cheap enough and they come with all new valves installed.
Cleaning the carb DID SPRAY COME OUT the tiny holes by the BUTTERFLY? there are about 4 tiny pilot jet fuel outlets by the butterfly. That is how you get a higher idle if needed you turn the idle speed screw a little clockwise and it moves the butterfly and exposes more of the tiny fuel outlets and your idle goes up(more fuel) loser the idle the butterfly closes off some of the tiny outlets less gas lower idle. Same is if you twist the throttle cable a tad but the idle speed screw is for fine tuning of the throttle control wheel which opens the butterfly. Alleyoop
Post by olivertwisted on Apr 29, 2016 12:45:30 GMT -6
No thanks! lol! I just thought there may be some tip or trick to clean it up in there to prevent any sticking I'm going after a fresh can of carb cleaner today. What I had was three cans , with maybe an inch of fluid in each and so, there wasn't much pressure in any of them. So, it kinda just seeped out, didn't squirt out.
Great, as you can see freeing those tiny outlets is very important some are so varnished up that you need a needle to poke at the holes and spray to clear them out. Alleyoop
Post by olivertwisted on Apr 29, 2016 19:50:11 GMT -6
Okay, Alleyoop, HELP, lol! I got her cleaned out and installed but evidently, WAY out of adjustment or the float is binding? I'm getting fuel coming out of the overflow tube. Am I assessing correctly?
The run for a while sit for a while problem in your first posts, sounds very familiar to me. My 250 four stroke did the same dang thing for a while last year. It turned out to be the battery was bad, and not charging correctly. I have a DC cdi, and the charging system was out of whack, so the engine would just run out if available juice and die. Then after sitting for about ten or fifteen minutes would fire right up and go for a few more miles. A new battery fixed that issue for me. As I said, maybe not be the same issue, but just throwing it out there.............
Post by olivertwisted on Apr 29, 2016 20:06:54 GMT -6
I appreciate it , 2stroked. It is a new battery. I just removed and cleaned the carburetor, first try at starting up afterwards.It wasn't a problem before so, I'm pretty sure it is the carb. Thanks!
Okay, Alleyoop, HELP, lol! I got her cleaned out and installed but evidently, WAY out of adjustment or the float is binding? I'm getting fuel coming out of the overflow tube. Am I assessing correctly?
If it is coming out of the overflow tube the float is binding so loosen th4 clamps and tilt it and take the bowl off again and check the float. When you where cleaning it you did not mess with the float did you? Alleyoop work the float make sure the float moves up and down do it gently. CLICK TO EXPAND THE PIC:
..BAD TO THE BONE..
