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Post by rapidrob on Apr 24, 2017 23:07:14 GMT -6
I was given a Honda 1978 NC50 Express today. It has been sitting out in the desert under a tree for the last 20 years. The tires are rotten,brake cables frozen up and fuel lines fossilized. Other than that the bike is in good shape. The piston was free and after oiling up the piston and cylinder and turning the engine over by hand I'm reading 85 pounds of compression. The scooter is showing less than 700 miles on the odometer which is still hooked up. The spring starter was wound up like a cheap clock and would not release via the rear brake trip lever at the transmission. I opened up the transmission cover ( a good thing as the oil had thickened to like crude oil and really smelled bad) only to find the the Starter Arm(?) and it's hair spring were no longer touching the gear and had slipped behind the sprocket. No parts were damaged,just out of place. I was able to safely unload the starter spring and attempted to replace the left cover back onto the transmission casting. The Starter Arm does not want to cooperate and keeps wanting to go behind the sprocket. I put a little tension on the starter spring to force the Starter Arm against the tooth of the sprocket. After having "fun" aligning the various pins and shafts in the housing I replaced the dozen or so screws only to find that darn Starter arm had moved off of the sprocket again,this time not allowing the face of the Starter Arm lever to stay on the sprocket tooth allowing the starter spring to be wound. As far as I can see in the manual ( provided here on this site,thank you very much,Sir) I do not see that any parts are missing,it must be the way I'm trying to reassemble the two half of the transmission. I would really appreciate any tips since a photo would be impossible. As to how the Starter Arm sits normally and how to put it back together without the part shifting escapes me? I've been working on and building mini-bikes since the mid 60's and can swing a wrench with the best of them. The little Honda looks to be a fun bike to play with. Thank you for any help.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by jct842 on Apr 25, 2017 9:33:30 GMT -6
I would worry about the compression first. possibly an additive might be in order to free up the rings. They may be just worn too. In any case don't spend on anything until compression in sorted, you need some where around 150 to be riding it. They can be replaced and cyl scuffed or honed. Could also be a leaking valve, check clearance first there.
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 27, 2017 8:32:11 GMT -6
I was able to get the engine to run for a minute by spraying fuel into the carb. The tank is pickled and is drying now. The compression went over 100 psi before my gauge started to leak on a warm head. The engine died after it changed the running sound. The spark is blue but weak. Condenser? I'm not sure why it stopped so suddenly. It would not start again.I may have flooded the housing and it is too rich. The engine sounded good and the wheel spun. First time running in 20 years. Thanks for the advice.
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 27, 2017 15:40:39 GMT -6
I read that the 2-stroke engines are hard on spark plugs.Even though it looked to have no wear or deposits the spark was weak. I replaced the plug with a new one and it made all the difference. A squirt of gas/oil into the carb and it fired right up.
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 28, 2017 9:15:28 GMT -6
Two strokes were hard on plugs way back in the day. Most of that was due to the oils of the time. Currently a two sroke bike that's running right will be as easy on plugs as a well tuned four stroke. I actually go through more plugs on my lawnmower than my two stroke scoot.
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Post by cyborg on Apr 28, 2017 14:16:03 GMT -6
I read that the 2-stroke engines are hard on spark plugs.Even though it looked to have no wear or deposits the spark was weak. I replaced the plug with a new one and it made all the difference. A squirt of gas/oil into the carb and it fired right up. Great!!!!
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 28, 2017 17:07:00 GMT -6
Now the fun starts. The throttle cable was rusted tight. I soaked it in Kroil for 48 hours and it freed up enough to move but the return spring just can't push the cable back. It stayed wide open. I cleaned the carburetor well in an ultra sound tank and needle drill bit the orifices but the float will not turn the fuel off when the cup is filled. The little hair spring is missing for the needle valve. While the vale seems to try to shut off,the carb leaks fuel out a little weep hole 3/4 way up the casting. No idea why this is happening unless the little spring would provide the final force to shut the needle valve off. I need to find a new or used,working throttle cable and that needle valve hair spring if I can. I will get this bike running for sure,I just have to find the parts.
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Post by cyborg on Apr 28, 2017 20:15:29 GMT -6
I'm sure you'll get her running
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 28, 2017 20:30:20 GMT -6
What type of carb is it? Depending on the type EBay is one source, or partsforscooters.com
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Post by cyborg on Apr 29, 2017 7:35:15 GMT -6
It's new cables and carb time,,,
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 29, 2017 8:14:13 GMT -6
The cables are on Ebay. The original carb is 200 bucks with shipping. There are non-cable choke carbs for sale for under 20 bucks with the same mounting as original. Anyone try one of these carbs?
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Post by cyborg on Apr 29, 2017 13:26:39 GMT -6
No rebuild kits for the original?
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 29, 2017 15:52:53 GMT -6
Is there anyway you could post a pic of the carb.
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 29, 2017 17:05:46 GMT -6
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Post by 2stroked on May 1, 2017 9:59:25 GMT -6
Sadly, thats not a terrible price for that kit. Hondas have their pros, as well as one major con, being prices for parts.
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