Junior's scooter build By jrsride2002 (Read 2,066 times)

[cyborg]

Not to hijack this thread but here goes anyway,,,this is my opinion ok,,,I get the whole hobby/tinkering thing but get that turkey repaired and send it on its way,,,and get a genuine or sym or kymco,,,the build and materials quality is so much better it's like they're from another planet,,,for the difference in money used to new is pretty great and makes the upgrade worth every penny,,,the genuine Stella in my avatar had a lighting problem (bad glass tube fuse holder) and the headlite was flickering when I'd hit choppy road while riding,,changed that to a blade style holder and not one problem since,,,did the repair for well under $10 and now with over 5000 miles on the clock ,,,and another point is the oiling systems on the Chinese scoots are weak at best with no capacity no real filtration (just a screen) and very low oil pressures and 500 mile oil changes,,,,ridiculous ,,,,the Stella has a real live oil pump and a filter and 3600-4000 mile recommended change intervals,,,just something to think about

[jrsride2002]

Mar 23, 2018 8:00:12 GMT -6 cyborg said:

Not to hijack this thread but here goes anyway,,,this is my opinion ok,,,I get the whole hobby/tinkering thing but get that turkey repaired and send it on its way,,,and get a genuine or sym or kymco,,,

I hear you dude, I really do! I genuinely wanted to get a Stella. Still do.
But I don't understand these machines, from my washing machine. I feel like I'm starting from the ground up. And yes, the tinkering hobby aspect did play the major part of my buy. I want to be able to repair these things on my own. Give me a dirt bike, I can fix it. My VW has taught me a lot, and I'm still learning.
I just don't want to waste my money at a repair shop, when asking for help, watching youtube, and getting a little dirty can take care of everything.

I'm totally with you when it comes to fix it, then ditch it. But I have to fix it first.

~ Junior

[jrsride2002]

Found my rectifier. The connector is half melted.
Does power from the stator travel to the spark plug first, or the rectifier first? I still haven't found a wiring diagram. But I'll keep looking.

Second, I found this other object, that is also fried. It sits right behind my headlights, but not connected directly to them. Totally needs to be replaced. But no clue what it is.

~ Junior

[jrsride2002]

Ok. I've solved the mystery part problem.
That part is the headlight resistor. YAY Me!

Also found a wiring diagram, in all it clarity! That's a huge relief.

So power goes from the stator, to the CDI, then off to the coil. However, the coil shares the same ground as the rectifier.

So if the rectifier is fried and doesn't work, then it's not getting ground? Is that right? Am I confusing me again? I hate electrical.

~ Junior

[solymar]

I agree with the hating of electrical issues. Electrics was the one part of my vo-tech classes I seriously hated. After 30+ years, I’m still not feeling the love for it lol

Good luck with your build!


Solymar

[thevolget]

9 pin connector is the accessory connector commonly used for an alarm.

As far as spark, check the brake switches, as you typically have to hold the lever to start. Possibly one or both are unhooked

[jrsride2002]

I SAW SOME SPARK!!!
It was intermittent, but I saw spark!! It's a brand new stator, and I didn't know that a correct gap was necessary. So I did the gap for the pick up, and made the plug gap a little tighter. And it happened. One perfectly colored spark.
I was excited. I broke out my new drill mounted wire brushes, and went to town on my grounds. Things were really getting cleaned up. However, my spark remains intermittent. I might add an extra ground, just to see how it goes.

Mar 25, 2018 16:29:38 GMT -6 thevolget said:

As far as spark, check the brake switches, as you typically have to hold the lever to start. Possibly one or both are unhooked

I have it hooked up. And I was playing with it, with my intermittent spark. But not conclusive, to say it does or doesn't work on this scooter. But it is a good idea, and I am working with it until I have definitive results.

Thanks, about the 9 pin BTW.

I think overall, I am now down to chasing a good ground. I don't know where to continue to next. But, I'll continue.
I'll keep at it, after work. Thanks guys for giving me solid help,
~ Junior

[jrsride2002]

I now have full spark. Even got her to purr for a second, on starter fluid.

Long story short:
I ran a wire to the positive ignition switch harness, and a ground from there as well. Got great colored spark from the old Autolite spark plug. The new Chinese plug was blue and orange colored. It works, but is garbage. I'll keep it as a backup, until I'm ready to buy a new Autolite plug.

I finally found a wiring diagram, for a 50cc motor WITH the 4 wire stator. Turns out that the Rectifier and ignition share a common wire. With the ignition getting power and ground, the rectifier worked. Sending power to the coil?? Or power to the CDI, then to the coil? I hate electrical...

Ultimately, I didn't need to buy anything, originally. Just needed a new ignition key and tumbler. I'm not worried about it, the plug boot had seem better days, spark plug works but isn't full of life like it once was.

I do have to replace the front brake reservoir. The sight glass had been broken some how, and no longer holds fluid. Figure that I might replace the ABS unit also, it's rusted tight.

New coil has a DOA secondary coil. Sending back under warranty. Few days there, week back.

Overall, $200 more would pay for the parts I need and the title.

Looking like I'm ready to chase down the titled owner, to get him to sign some paperwork for me.

Thanks for all the ideas and help guys,
~ Junior

[cyborg]

Get rid of the so called abs,,,it's more like plain oldie BS anyways,,,

[solymar]

I’d also get a NGK plug instead of the Autolite.

[jrsride2002]

Mar 30, 2018 8:44:52 GMT -6 cyborg said:

Get rid of the so called abs,,,it's more like plain oldie BS anyways,,,

The kit I'm looking at, has it already. Would you recommend I remove it, anyways?

Mar 30, 2018 9:16:57 GMT -6 solymar said:

I’d also get a NGK plug instead of the Autolite.

I'll definitely keep the Autolite as a backup. Anything to ditch the China plug. I looked into the part number of NGK, wasn't it CH7HSA? Or something like that? I did look it up, but I didn't really remember it because the kit is bought came with a plug. I didn't think it would be that bad... That kit came with the plug wire(DOA), stator, and plug.

~ Junior

[czmdiver]

Mar 30, 2018 10:33:36 GMT -6 jrsride2002 said:

Mar 30, 2018 8:44:52 GMT -6 cyborg said:

Get rid of the so called abs,,,it's more like plain oldie BS anyways,,,

The kit I'm looking at, has it already. Would you recommend I remove it, anyways?

Mar 30, 2018 9:16:57 GMT -6 solymar said:

I’d also get a NGK plug instead of the Autolite.

I'll definitely keep the Autolite as a backup. Anything to ditch the China plug. I looked into the part number of NGK, wasn't it CH7HSA? Or something like that? I did look it up, but I didn't really remember it because the kit is bought came with a plug. I didn't think it would be that bad... That kit came with the plug wire(DOA), stator, and plug.

~ Junior

Yes throw the Fake ABS as far as you can, Its really not ABS only a Hydraulic Check Valve to Dump a pressure spike, as far as I'm concern it Dangerous.. just replace it with a normal Banjo Bolt..

[jrsride2002]

Mar 30, 2018 15:10:43 GMT -6 czmdiver said:

... just replace it with a normal Banjo Bolt..

That's what I wanted to know, thanks. I have a spare banjo laying around.

On a side note. I think I'll add a fuse panel from my old dirt bike. I want to run LEDs, and running the fuse straight from the battery will make life easier on that conversion. I found a electric flasher relay that will plug up to the shooter's factory relay connector. Will work nicely.
But I still have to get the title done first... need to call that guy again

~ Junior

[solymar]

You can use either c7hsa or cr7hsa NGK plugs. I bought my cr7hsa from the local auto parts store for like $2.75.

Solymar

[cyborg]

Do yourself another gigantic favor from outer space and launch the normal flasher relay with the abs (as in ALL BUL SHT) unit,,,you can tape them together so they'll shoot farther when you blast them out of the cannon,,,get an electronic flasher relay,,,nice steady flash rate whether you use LED or old style filament bulbs or any combination of both,,,the only problem with one is if you blow a bulb it'll still flash so you have to check bulbs more frequently but I check mine almost daily when I ride so it doesn't bug me,,,and I'll second the motion on the NGK plug,,,it's all I run,,,