Junior's scooter build By jrsride2002 (Read 2,189 times)

[jrsride2002]

I'm 100% on board with NGK.
And that factory flasher? I'll take your graphically awesome advice, and bottle rocket them, together, as one unit.

I have a full set of LEDs laying around, from the mentioned dirt bike. The electric relay was lost in a wreck. But the rest is still available. Lighting will be, more or less, free as I'll be salvaging them from the bike. It's taping into the wiring harness, that'll be the fun challenges. And if it's free, it's for me...

~ Junior

[cyborg]

The LED compatable flasher units I've been running were 3 blade plug and play ,,,no muss no fuss,,,one other problem I've run into is on my last install ,,the bike has a single indicator bulb for both right and left indicators,,,the LED lites are so sensitive that it 4 way flashed I had to clip the lead going into the dash lite,,,

[jrsride2002]

Mar 31, 2018 7:44:50 GMT -6 cyborg said:

The LED compatable flasher units I've been running were 3 blade plug and play ,,,no muss no fuss,,,

Correct. That is the same that I used on the dirt bike. However, the scooter has options....



The wires may or may not be in the correct orientation. But that is a simple task with a paper clip. I haven't checked what wires go where, I'll deal with it when ever it arrives.

I believe(not certain), this unit was meant for a Ruckus or Ruckus clone.

~ Junior

[jrsride2002]

Did some rummaging around the ol' dirt bike. Scavenged the very dead battery, one make shift battery strap, two out of four LEDs, fuse panel, and(to my surprise) one 2 post electronic relay with a pigtailed ground wire.

The dirt bike used LED turn signals, built into the bark busters(hand guards). So that is why I didn't bring back four LEDs.

The Battery might be dead, but it can complete the circuit when I jump start the scooter. Or use the kick starter, when that gets fixed.

The relay. Well that one might be a little tricky. I think I'm just going to cut the pigtail off of the factory relay, and splice it onto the electronic relay. The only thing I'm hesitant about, is the ground wire. To get in the harness, would stretch the wire a little tighter than I'd prefer. Just to touch the pigtails. Or in a way where I would mount it in the rubber mount, then attach the wiring together.

Dummy fitted the LEDs to the original signal locations. Think it'll look great, when I it's ready. Even have a LED and stock mounted side by side.

I also just plopped the fuse panel into place. Not mounted or anything. Just wanted to see how it would look and function. It's a very tight fit, but look good. To change a fuse, the battery would have to be removed first. Things could be worse.

I also stumbled across my tap and die set. Think I'm going to re-thread all of the rusted frame mounted nuts. Tissue will clean the threads, and give me a easy time bolting the parts down. I tried a wire brush. I'm not getting the results that I would like. So I'm going the hard way about the task.

That's it for the weekend,
~ Junior

[jrsride2002]

Hey guys,

Need a little guidance. Yes, it's electrical based.

I am trying to wire up my new fuse panel for a LED headlight. The headlight draws 45w, 30w's for the low beam and 45 for the high beam. I have 18awg wire, or 10awg wire. Side by side, the positive battery cable looks like a 10awg.
Do you think I can get away with using the 18awg for 45w?
The 18awg is rated up to 16amps for 0-50ft. Using a 12v system, 45w is 4amps. So I think it will be ok. But I'm still not sure. Second. Realistically, could I run said headlight on a 5amp fuse, or should I use a 4amp fuse?

My dirt bike used one 10amp fuse for headlights, turn signals, and brake lights.

Also, I cut that old tube fuse out. Swapped in a mini blade fuse holder. I'm not buying those fuses.... I have enough blade fuses laying around, I don't want another style to keep track of. Soldered it down already.

Thanks guys,
~ Junior

[jrsride2002]

I just modified the relay setup that I want to do.... Sort of... I ran out of female spade connectors. But this give a good idea of the overall plan.

I cut the wiring pigtail off the factory relay, and will put connectors on the cut wires to plug into the electric relay I already have from the dirt bike.

Think I'll call it a night. I'll buy more connectors and a NKG plug tomorrow. I'm happy with how things are going.

~ Junior

[cyborg]

Good move getting rid of the archaic glass tube fuse,,,that was the first thing to get jettisoned from the Stella,,,along with the turn signal sound device HOLY SMOKES that thing was annoying ,,,

[jrsride2002]

Well, I'm done with the electronic flasher. Easy peasy. I'm all set for the two rear turn signals. When I choose to do that.

Bought the new NGK plug, with those female connectors. Gapped it, throw the China plug in the trash. Kept the old Autolite as a backup. While I was at auto parts store. I saw a small coil of 18awg, looked on the back, saw what that coil was rated for. Feel good about using 18awg for the LED headlight project.

For now, I'm kind of at a stand still. Until I can get the title situated. I can't do ALL of the fuse panel wiring, without relays. I could start it, but I'll wait until I'm fully ready to cross that bridge and spend more money.

To be continued...
~ Junior

[solymar]

Nice! Hopefully the title issue doesn’t take you too long to resolve.

Solymar

[cyborg]

Speaking of the title,,,I had more than one with questionable papers (as in I didn't have any),,,the bikes weren't stolen just a screwy paper trail,,I found it easier to go into the dmv and filed a lost title form,,,that took care of it ,,,lately tho I've been useing AAA for transfers and reregistrations much easier,,,and more forgiving than the dmv,,,the only time I go into the dmv is for license renewals,,,

[cyborg]

As a side note there's shielded female spade connectors they are literally pennies more than the blue ones you're running,,and the crimp shank is longer which stops wire fatigue

[jrsride2002]

Sadly, the lost title form is for the registered owner (not me). And AAA Texas doesn't do that process here. Damn, I miss AAA California... For me to process the lost title form, I would be required to have the registered owner sign the form. Plus a POA so I can handle the process in his stead.

So far, communication with the owner has not been good. I have the number to the father, and he has been less than willing to assist me. And the emails to the owner have been unanswered.

There is another way around it, but it's going to be costly. By a lot... In the ball park of $3-400...
If I can get the owners cooperation, it would be registration plus title copy fees

~ Junior

[scootman89]

I have the no title issue as well. Guy I bought it from put a flag on it and drove it like it was a 50cc Despite it being 150. How did you track down the last owner? because the only option I see right now is to get a rebuilt title on it and that sounds like a real pain to do.

To be honest I have been driving it anyway because a cop is not going to be able to tell the difference between a 50 and 150 cc anyway and in Kentucky it don' have to be registered if it is 50cc or less and cannot exceed 30 mph. So I try to take the Backroads which have lower speed limits so I can stay under 30mph bec
ause I am scared to do 30 in a 45 I like to keep with the flow of traffic.

[jrsride2002]

Apr 4, 2018 15:23:01 GMT -6 scootman89 said:

... How did you track down the last owner? because the only option I see right now is to get a rebuilt title on it and that sounds like a real pain to do.

I don't know how it is in other states. This is a first for me. However, the process for tracking him down is easy in Texas. I went to the DMV with the VIN, doesn't have a plate(but I'm sure it could be useful), asked for finding the registered owner of the vehicle, pay the DMV for services rendered, and walked out with a piece of paper. Print out has a name, and address of the registered owner. The only person that can sign the title over. Also has a list of lienholder(s)(if any), and all the vehicle details for the DMV to know that it is(make, model, color, etc...).

Out here, all motor vehicles are required to have a license plate, insurance, and a yearly inspection. Even if it is under 50cc's.

Any one that bought the vehicle between the time the registered owner sold it and you, are meaningless. They couldn't even report the scooter stolen.

Never heard the term, "rebuilt title". But that is what I most likely will have to do. And yes. You will be jumping through a ton of hoops. And it will only get expensive. Like I said previously, my GUESSTIMATE for my situation is $300-$400 MINIMAL. I am going to try and annoying the guy enough to sign the forms, just to get me out of his hair.

Hope this helps,
~Junior

[jrsride2002]

Apr 4, 2018 7:47:43 GMT -6 cyborg said:

As a side note there's shielded female spade connectors they are literally pennies more than the blue ones you're running,,and the crimp shank is longer which stops wire fatigue

I honestly didn't even look around. I totally had blinders on, for good reason. I saw what I needed, and got to the counter as fast as I could. I almost always end up buying something I don't need or pointless for the task at hand... It's a horrible habit... The main reason why I love amazon and eBay so much.

~ Junior