WON'T CHARGE WHEN RIDING - LANCE DUKE 250 By joethursday (Read 4,486 times)

[joethursday]

HELLO ALL !!

ANYONE !!! PLEASE !!! HELP !!!

I bought this Lance Duke 250 used with only 30 miles on it.

Problem, the scoot wont charge when riding. That's why i got so it so cheap. After about 30 minutes, the battery is drained so much that it won't restart. Riding for about an hour will cause complete drain.

I have replaced the Voltage Regulator Rectifier, and scratched the paint off the frame, where the ground connection is. Also, checked all the fuses for continuity.

* As before advised, I tested the three yellow wires coming from the stator. I get about (.1 - .6) volts between each wire. I was told that i should get about 30v between them. Someone else told me it should be more like 6 volts? Either way, I'm getting almost nothing. It seems there is no charge at all going to my battery. Am i testing correctly?

*I tested the three yellows coming from the Regulator rectifier. 12v to ground on each yellow. 0v between each other. Should i be getting voltages from both sides, (The stator, and the RR) ?


Here are the voltages across the battery when riding


*Fully charged battery, 13.1v

*Started the engine, 12.3v

*5-7 minutes warming time, 12.1v (fan is still off, revving the engine no voltage drop with higher RPM's

*Rode about 30 minutes on open roads and back home (15-45 mph), turned off engine, 10.1v

*Tried starting, not enough power

*Test after start attempt, 11.1v

*Started engine again, 10.1v

*Revved engine with no Voltage Drop

*Turned off engine, 9.9 Volts

*Tried restarting, not enough power

_______________________________________________

The previous owner had done some funny things to it, I know because i found the fan disconnected from the coolant sensor, and shorted together with a 30A fuse to keep it running constantly. I quickly changed that back, no problems. So, I have no idea why they did that.

[gsxr45]

call Michael M at Lance power sports 951 361 9000 ext 114

[gsxr45]

your stator is bad! it is a wet stator so don't forget to order the gasket with your new stator ,

[Cruiser]

Remember that the stator output is AC volts. Also, the 3 yellow wires on the regulator/rectifier are input wires not outputs. If the stator is still not producing AC according to specs, you might also want to verify with this quick continuity check:

mpsracing.net/helix-manual/17-04.html

[joethursday]

Oct 20, 2010 21:41:30 GMT -6 Cruiser said:

Remember that the stator output is AC volts. Also, the 3 yellow wires on the regulator/rectifier are input wires not outputs. If the stator is still not producing AC according to specs, you might also want to verify with this quick continuity check:

mpsracing.net/helix-manual/17-04.html

#1 - Checked the continuity and...

*Each yellow from the stator had continuity between each other w/ resistance @ (.9 ohms)

*Each yellow from the stator had continuity to ground w/ resistance @ (8.9 ohms)

This means my stator is bad... Correct?

#2 - Why am i getting voltage readings off the RR connector if this is supposed to be the load side of the voltage?


>>Joe

[joethursday]

!! THANK YOU !!

Talking with Mike From Lance was the BEST thing i could do.
He told me that i need to replace the stator, its crap. Just the reading alone being only .6 volts, and he knew. It should be about 30 volts just idling.

And he walked me through the steps to replace it !

GREAT HELP !!!! THANK YOU !!!

>>>Joe

[joethursday]

;D !! CHARGING ISUUE SOLVED !! ;D

Thanks to everyone for all the help with this charging battle... I have been so busy with work, i just ended up taking the scoot to a mechanic who threw in the stator in a couple hours. Unfortunately i don't have any pictures.

END DIAGNOSIS - BAD STATOR

For others to test easily...
1. Disconnect stator/magneto from the Regulator Rectifier.

2. Start the scooter

3. Test the AC voltage between two of the three yellow wires coming from the stator. Repeat until all possible combinations have been tested. ( 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 )

4. There should be at least 30 volts between each pair of wires. Any less, you have a bad stator.

Yoster - That Regulator Rectifier you told me to buy was WRONG...lol. After replacing with the one you recommended, you remember, there was no change in the issue. Then i replaced the stator, still no change...HOWEVER the voltage was now correct off the stator. So, this stator was good. This had the mechanics and myself really confused. besides the harness, there's nothing else to change really. Especially since i assured them that the RR was brand new and would not be the issue...

They took the bike apart and went through the entire harness, no problems there. Then i had a thought, scary.... Why don't we try the original RR with the new stator, since changing it didn't solve anything, maybe there was no problems with it....VOILà , Issue solved. It was that RR you had me buy that sent EVERYONE thru a very confusing loop.... and me out $100 bucks and loads of time....lol. No big deal, it's done now. I do appreciate all your help, don't get me wrong. I do not mean to offend you in any way, But just wanted you to know that you cannot use the RR you recommended.


HERE ARE THE BEST RESOURCES I HAVE FOUND FOR TROUBLESHOOTING ISSUES

HONDA HELIX SHOP MANUAL W/ GREAT TROUBLESHOOTING SECTION

mpsracing.net/helix-manual/index.html

FAULT FINDING FLOW CHART FOR MOTORCYCLE CHARGING SYSTEMS

www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

These are posted all over these forums, but just thought i put them here for other's help

[yoster]

Glad you got it figured out! Second you posted those lower numbers at the stator (below 30v), i knew something was up there.

Sorry man, but you must have been sent the wrong RR! That RR I recommended has been used and tested here on the boards, ask around! It sounds to me like they either sent you the wrong one, or it was wired up incorrectly. I'd reach out to the company and bug them about it!! Again, we've already purchased it and tested it and have been through what you're experiencing many, many times.

Also, you will definitely want to get the correct one (or have it the guy at Oregon fix it). You got a charge, but you WILL have slow drain problems until you get the better RR up and running due to the radiator fan pulling more juice than the stock RR can output. That $100 definitely wasn't a waste! Contact that guy and stick it to him! lol

Damin - if you have any insight here please let us know.

[Alleyoop]

Well if you bought it from OMP he guarantees them so it should not be a problem I would think. He also mentions that if something is wrong with his product to send it back and he will fix the problem. Now the only thing is you may have ordered the wrong one. For something like that and for that price I would have called to make sure he had the right one for my scoot.
Alleyoop

[yoster]

Either the wrong one, or that Lance is using some different wiring scheme as our "reflex clone" scoots, though I'm pretty sure the wiring diagram in regards to the RR connectors is one and the same across all cfmoto engines.

JRR/Cruiser - is that correct?

[damin69]

Ok Joe

Jul 6, 2010 15:27:17 GMT -6 damin69 said:

Well guys I will let you know how it goes. I just got an email back from Tony I am going to be a bit of a Test Monkey for him on his VRRPM3H regulator and wire it up for my scooter. "This is also the highest amperage unit I carry and should last forever on a scooter.." Per Tony's quote. www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html


I will let you all know how this goes... and keep you all up to date.

Is this the Regulator you got from Tony?
This is the one I got from Tony it is the model for Honda Goldwings. It is also the Largest draw RR that he has. 25 amp. Just make sure that you have it wired correctly. If you need I can post pics up of how I had Tony put the plug on mine.

Thanks,
Todd

[Cruiser]

Nov 5, 2010 16:17:06 GMT -6 yoster said:

Either the wrong one, or that Lance is using some different wiring scheme as our "reflex clone" scoots, though I'm pretty sure the wiring diagram in regards to the RR connectors is one and the same across all cfmoto engines.

JRR/Cruiser - is that correct?

I haven't run across any variations on the R/R on the CfMoto clones. Which one did you recommend?

[yoster]

Recommended the same one Damin used off his thread, and also posted a direct link to that thread (the VRRPM3H)

Note - I just purchased on myself from them and received it today; was the right one and wired up correctly!

[joethursday]

oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html


It's the one on the bottom of the page ? That's the one i bought. is the one you received smaller than the Duke's stock one. i could only use one bolt to mount it cause the spacing is different. Maybe my new one is just wired incorrectly?

[Cruiser]

That R/R should work depending how the plug was wired up. As far as using one bolt to mount, that's how my OEM R/R mounts on my YY250T.