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Post by justguy1 on Feb 26, 2011 13:30:54 GMT -6
The place where I bought the air filter said I didn't have to change anything.. But I read on here that I should upgrade some things on the Carb.. Any suggestions on what I need to do?? Air filter is on, took for a test drive and it rode nice.. So not sure if I need to change anything
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Post by Bong on Feb 26, 2011 13:56:37 GMT -6
Upjetting the carb is done with free flow filters. If you add more air you need more gas to mix with it. If your scoot is running fine you may not have to. Check your plug for color, you may be running lean. When I first put an unifilter on my scoot would bogg down really bad so I had to upjet. Giving it more gas to match the high air flow solved the problem. If your scoot runs fine and is not lean well, no worries
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Post by Bong on Feb 26, 2011 15:01:09 GMT -6
Oh By the way, did you get a stock airfilter replacement with the UNI brand name or a free flow pod/sock type filter? If ya just replaced the stock airbox filter with a name brand, You don't need to do anything!!! Glad your finally up and running!!! Hows that new engine? Just Ride and be Safe!!!!
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2011 15:29:07 GMT -6
Yes, by all means if it is running good and not running Lean acting up on you at WOT then if it AIN'T Broke don't fix it Alleyoop
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Post by sprocket on Feb 26, 2011 16:56:25 GMT -6
If you have a foam filter in the air box then you don't need to do anything.
If you have a paper filter in the stock air box, you should try doing an air/fuel adjustment first.
Then if it doesn't run well raise the throttle needle by a notch. (Move the clip toward the tip)
This will make it run richer.. more gas..
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Post by justguy1 on Feb 28, 2011 22:03:29 GMT -6
Ok.. Let me see if I can address everyone..
Bong.. Yes I got a UNI Filter from Cycle Gear. Its a POD filter and not like the one I had on there
I haven't gone WOT yet since im breaking in the engine.. I have been trying to keep it around 25-30mph while test driving.. I can't really tell my speed since my speedometer is not working.
Now this is where I kind of get confused. How do I know if its running LEAN OR RICH?? I have read some of the posts here but haven't kind of understood it.. It runs pretty good I guess from what I can tell. Maybe on my next ride I will record it from my phone and you can hopefully hear the engine..
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Post by Bong on Mar 1, 2011 14:36:02 GMT -6
In my experience the best way to tell A lean or rich condition is to do a Plug Chop. You can just pull the spark plug and look at the color. It should be a nutty brown carmel color. If it's white your lean. If it's wet or kinda black sooty in color your rich. There is a plug color chart here somewhere I just cant find the link. Maybe someone else can help or correct me if I'm wrong. When I first put a pod filter on my 50cc it bogged down immediately. If its running poor you will notice it before WOT. I couldn't make a trip up my driveway without rejetting
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Post by justguy1 on Mar 1, 2011 14:56:13 GMT -6
It doesn't seem to run poorly to be honest.. I ran pretty good.. But of course with this scooter when one thing is fixed another thing needs to be addressed.. swear this scooter is possessed. Ok. next thing. My rear tire barely moves. Its either on too tight or something.. I think the brakes are too tight and not really sure how to adjust the brakes to loosen them a little. UGGGG
So not sure If I should rejet or not for now.. im not going too.. I have to work in the wheel (AGAIN) to see why its not spinning freely..
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Post by sprocket on Mar 1, 2011 17:36:56 GMT -6
Have you oiled that filter??? When you do it will change how it runs..guaranteed.
It is the oil that acts as the filter... the foam is there to support the oil.
Rear drum brake?
Find the adjusted on the left side at the rear of the CVT case. There is a spring and a pivot bolt. Just back the adjusted bolt off a few turns...
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Post by Bong on Mar 1, 2011 18:08:48 GMT -6
Speaking of oil I am no expert by any means but, It does make a difference. I ran without any filter oil for a long time with no adverse effects on the engine. It depends where you live. I would have waited to get the engine broken in before doing mods but, thats just me. I really hope ya don't have any more problems with that wheel. Again, I'm Glad ya got the scoot up and running Now it time to have fun and ride!!! I agree with Sprocket adjusting the nut on the brake cable may solve your problem.
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Post by justguy1 on Mar 1, 2011 21:14:31 GMT -6
Yes I oiled the filter.. I took off the brake and the wheel spins so its the brakes and NO I have DISC brakes. So not sure how to adjust them. They were tight on the rotor causing the wheel not to spin.. And right now have it apart cause im changing out the speedometer cable as well. after all this money I put into this friggin scooter I could bought a new one.. but have to admit the projects are a little fun.. so can't wait to ride it.
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Post by sprocket on Mar 2, 2011 15:19:19 GMT -6
I see this over and over. Some people spend a couple hundred bucks making their engines wear out twice as fast, to gain a few MPHs when they could have done the same thing for less than $20, installing new sliders or rollers... For another $20, they could also change the clutch springs...
My 2 cents advice ...tune the CVT tuning FIRST!
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Post by sprocket on Mar 2, 2011 15:24:55 GMT -6
There is no adjustment on callipers on scooters. Just run it and the pads will wear in...
However, if it is the stationary pad that is dragging you can put a thin shim under the calliper where it attaches to move it out a bit.
Or if you need to go the other way, you can shim the rotor where it attaches to the wheel. I like to use the aluminum from pop cans. Easy to cut with scissors. Sometimes you will need two or three.
Finally you might try pushing the calliper plunger back. Sometimes they are tight. This may help.
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Post by justguy1 on Mar 2, 2011 15:56:05 GMT -6
I will try to push the cylinders back. seems like they are stuck.. And as far as upgrading while breaking in the new engine.. I kind of had no choice.. My old Air Filter would NOT go on to the carb of the new engine I put in.. When it was mounted to the case it was on an angle that just would not fit.. It was getting frustrating so I decided just to go with the POD filter.. fit on nice and good.. So that is why I changed to that.. Believe me how crapty this new engine is and im not even sure if its 150cc because of who I got it from.. Im trying everything just to make this scooter run..
IS THERE ANY WAY TO DETERMINE THE CC'S OF AN ENGINE?? Other then looking on the engine.. no where on this engine does it show the cc's.. and its a chinese piece of crap..
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Post by Bong on Mar 2, 2011 16:10:15 GMT -6
Sprocket, You rock!!! Sage like advice is a nice complement which I don't think I'm worthy of yet. but, I agree there are better more bang for the buck mods to be done. CVT tuning being about the best. I do prefer the sound of an UNI over the stock box though. I like the loud intake noise. Thats just me, I know some don't like it. As for disk brakes I don't know much. I do know that riding season is coming and its more fun to ride instead of wrench Guy- after that engine does break in you will pick up more top speed and things should run better all around. I would wait till around 800-1000 miles before doing to many mods. Just my Opinion. Keep On Scootin On!!!!
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