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Post by speedracer on Apr 27, 2011 7:25:36 GMT -6
I can not adjust the idle so it remains constant. It either idles to fast, just right, or too low.
Yesterday as an example. Started it up cold, idle went up to 3000 while choke was on then dropped to 2000. Go 1 mile to store and idle is at 1800. Still fine in my book. Go on a straight 5 mile ride with no stops then come to a stop light and it's idling at 2300 and pulling on the back wheel. Continue a few miles to my home and pull it in the garage and it's at 2300 again.
Put scoot on center stand while it still running, go get my other key to open the seat and with the screwdriver I slightly lower the idle to just a tad under 2000.
This morning did the exact same ride and had the exact results from yesterday. This is not new, as it has been doing this for weeks. I can not adjust the idle so it remains the same.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 27, 2011 12:36:04 GMT -6
You could have a small air leak somewhere maybe use a Spray bottle with water and spray individual areas and see if the IDLE changes if it does you found a little leak. It could also be the emissions stuff causeing this as well, any emission part that is NOT working properly will cause Idleing problems.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 27, 2011 15:02:19 GMT -6
Yea, a little hickup can be anything really, electrical like the CDI, COIL, etcc or amount of air getting to the filter etc.. don't forget it is only 1 cylinder so a little swing is not that bad. But if the rpms actually are bounceing up and down then something is amiss as they say.
Alleyoop
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Post by speedracer on Apr 27, 2011 18:00:31 GMT -6
Alley you were right. Two weeks ago I removed the carb several times to clean it out and apparently the bottom of the intake hose from the air box was completely secured. There was my air leak. Now it's running fine again, but for how long is always the question on these bikes. Thanks and Earthman my choke is like yours. It can run fast for a min or two minutes, decides on it's own. Air temp doesn't matter at all. Mine can sit 30 minutes with it being in the 80's and the choke comes on. Oh well.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 27, 2011 18:28:10 GMT -6
Remember guys the choke starts to retract as soon as you turn the engine off. So by Default whether it is hundred or in the minus degrees the CHOKE is retracted. That is why I put on a manual Choke, I did not like smelling gas and running rich in the warmer weather. Alleyoop  |
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Post by speedracer on Apr 27, 2011 19:24:40 GMT -6
Well you learn something new every day. Had no idea the choke starts to retract when engine shuts down. Now I can see why it engages when it really doesn't need to.
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Clinician
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Post by monkeywrench on Apr 28, 2011 14:52:12 GMT -6
How about the throttle cable? The throttle should have a little free play when it's released, so that there is no tension on the cable. Otherwise, the cable is controlling your idle, not the screw on the carb, and it might tend to vary. Some people attempt to use the throttle cable as an idle adjustment, but it's poor form.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 28, 2011 17:45:17 GMT -6
Yes, that is one of the oldest tricks a mechanic does to have the customer believe he really did something. What they do is shorten the play on the throttle cable so when they customer twists the throttle it activates the carb sooner. The customer says WOW, it really moves out now(HEHE).
Alleyoop
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Post by speedracer on Apr 28, 2011 18:16:31 GMT -6
Oh yea I know how you can use the throttle cable can raise the rpms. I have mine set so there is enough play in it, that I have to move it some to get the scoot going. Rained a lot today so tomorrow is going to be beautiful so I'll really test it out, but so far so good. So is that how a mechanic like you Alley fools the customer?? LOL
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
