Clinician
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Post by monkeywrench on Apr 28, 2011 14:52:12 GMT -6
How about the throttle cable? The throttle should have a little free play when it's released, so that there is no tension on the cable. Otherwise, the cable is controlling your idle, not the screw on the carb, and it might tend to vary. Some people attempt to use the throttle cable as an idle adjustment, but it's poor form.
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Clinician
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Post by monkeywrench on Oct 6, 2010 14:35:27 GMT -6
I've got that 29" Givi, too. Very nice. If it's going to get the air over your head, you'll be looking through it. Keep it clean and Rain-Xed.
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Post by monkeywrench on Oct 6, 2010 14:32:31 GMT -6
If you're wanting serious light, you might want to consider HID's. 35W power draw and heat, so your electrical system and plastic can handle it, and several times increase in light output. You'll find plenty of discussion of HID upgrades in other threads.
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Post by monkeywrench on Aug 20, 2010 15:09:22 GMT -6
Mine's the Linhai 257cc, and it engages just shy of 2500. I have mine idling at about 1800.
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Post by monkeywrench on Aug 10, 2010 17:54:33 GMT -6
My commute involves about 10 miles of interstate each way, and I do fine. I'm not the fastest thing out there, but I'm rarely the slowest. Actually, I feel better respected by the cagers out there than on the side roads. Never really had anything approaching a close call on the interstate.
I think of the 250 not as a touring scoot but as a commuter with interstate capability. I wouldn't want it some place like Atlanta where you might get pushed if you're going below 80.
But for sure, this thing is happiest out in the country running 50-60.
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Post by monkeywrench on Jul 8, 2010 17:34:20 GMT -6
What kind of valve stem? Did he replace it with another one like the factory style with the brass tube glued into a piece of rubber? I'd stay away from them. Either use a stubby straight rubber stem, or a bolt in brass right angle stem.
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Post by monkeywrench on Jun 29, 2010 15:44:40 GMT -6
CC, I hope you've been reading up on back pain and MRI. What they're finding is that the more MRI machines an area has, the more MRI's are done, and the more MRI's are done, the more aggressive treatments are done. And so do they get better outcomes from all that? Not really. A year or two down the road the ones who got conservative treatment with rest and exercise are generally in as good a shape as those who got put through the medical wringer. Except the ones who got conservative treatment are a little richer. Not to say there's no place for MRI and no place for aggressive treatment, but they ARE overused--Americans want quick cures and doctors want to earn a living.
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Post by monkeywrench on Apr 19, 2010 20:37:49 GMT -6
I'm not familiar with the divided AC/DC electrical system. If indeed the stator output that powers the headlights is not available to charge the battery, HID's are going to be problematic. They definitely need DC, and it really needs to come right off the battery for best operation. The best HID hookup is to power just a relay from the regular headlight circuit, and use the relay to switch power from the battery to the HID ballast. And unless the power required by the HID's is being supplied to the battery by the stator, the battery will discharge. Assuming the battery has sufficient storage to supply the need until you get home, the float charger idea should work.
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Post by monkeywrench on Apr 17, 2010 8:55:50 GMT -6
I'd definitely prefer HID's over halogens. Halogens require more power than your stock headlights--which you would compensate for with the 11 pole stator--but then they heat up your headlight housing more which worries me about melting plastic. And the HID's put out more light even than the higher power halogens.
I don't know for sure what your 150 is running, but if it's supporting two 25 or 35W headlights stock, then you could put in two HID's-they are usually 35W. If it runs only one now, you'd probably want to just put in one. That way you don't have to worry about overloading your charging system. Changing everything else over to LED's would give you an extra margin.
I'm assuming you've determined the format (H4, etc.) so you can get a bulb that will get along with your housing and reflector.
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