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Post by royldoc on Jun 20, 2011 9:39:13 GMT -6
I need to know how to get the rear axles out. Before I go gungho and use my B.M.F.H.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Jun 20, 2011 11:56:01 GMT -6
I got it. Several swings with a B.M.F.H. didn't work, so I got a bigger M.F.H.. I hit that sucker so hard it knocked the trike off the jack stands. I had to move fast. I dropped the hammer, grabbed the axle tube and balanced it while I kicked the stands back under it. I ran out of time will post photo's of axle and tube later.
Roy
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 20, 2011 11:59:06 GMT -6
Hi Roy, 1. You will need a Hammer Type Puller: 2. Take the Tire off the HUB. 3. Take the HUB off. 4. Take the Dust cover out 5. Take the "C" Clip out which is in a Groove about 1/4 inch or so inside by the bearing. 6. Put the HUB back on Loose 7. Hook up the Hammer Type Puller onto Three or Two of the Bolts that hold the Rim onto the HUB. 8. Start Banging Back on the Puller. 9. WHOALA  Alleyoop Here is the AXLE completely apart so you can see all of the parts clips bearing etc:  |
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Post by royldoc on Jun 20, 2011 12:31:38 GMT -6
Thanks ally, I don't think my slide hammer would have done it. the left side was in really tight. the right side came out with two hits. I didn't see any thing wrong on the left but the right had a lot of metal dust in the tube. The ring on the axle behind the bearing was eating into the tube. will post photo later. I have to go to work now.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Jun 21, 2011 9:07:45 GMT -6
Here are some photo's of the axle and axle tube.     The ones of the inside of the tube look a little blurry, I think it is reflection from the flash. I need to figure out how to keep this from happening. Maybe use the same method as moving out problem, just put a screw on both sides of the ring. Roy |
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 21, 2011 11:22:44 GMT -6
Roy,
That ring is part of the axle it rotates with the axle, the only thing you can do is put some heavy Axle grease.
Alleyoop
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Post by royldoc on Jun 21, 2011 11:30:49 GMT -6
Ya, it does need some grease. I'm thinking about putting a collar and a thrust bearing on the other end of axle. The thrust bearing will go between differential plate and collar on shaft. What ya think?
Roy
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 21, 2011 11:48:11 GMT -6
That will surely keep it from coming out(hehe). How are you going to secure the Collar, with some set screws. That axle is hardened steel is is very difficult to drill even a little indent so a screw can be set in it to hold the collar you may have to take them to a machinest.
But that is MUCH cheaper than ordering a New Axle (they want almost $400.00 shipped.
Alleyoop
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Post by royldoc on Jun 21, 2011 23:21:11 GMT -6
I pressed the bearing off the axle today at work. the ring behind the bearing is not part of the axle, it appeared to be the race from a thrust bearing and it had a thin shim washer between it and the bearing.  I think I found a good way. I measured the thickness of bearing, shim washer and ring. it was .795". I found a bearing that is just a little thicker .814" with the proper i.d an o.d. I will have to bore the axle tube about .020" deeper to get the c clip in with the thicker bearing. but the outside race of the bearing will rest on the smaller tube and wont spin to wear it out any more. As far as dimpling shaft not a problem, I have special bits made to drill through hardened steel. These drill bits are made to drill through safe doors and will drill through a hardened ball bearing no problem. Now I just have to find the right thrust bearings and get a couple of collars. Roy |
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Post by royldoc on Jun 21, 2011 23:28:36 GMT -6
I forgot to mention the original bearing is a NSK brand #6205Z. The bearing I'm going to use is a GBC brand #5205.
Roy
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 22, 2011 11:42:36 GMT -6
Great, my bearings are 6205RS.
Alleyoop
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Post by royldoc on Jun 22, 2011 11:53:11 GMT -6
Just got done doing a little research. The original bearing is a NSK 6205Z the z means it has metal shields. The rs means it has rubber seals. The I.D is 25mm the O.D is 52mm and width is 15mm. The bearing I got now don't have any seals but will work till I order new ones. The width is 20.6 mm. the thickness of ring and shim is 5.04mm, so I may not have to bore the tube.
Roy
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 22, 2011 14:34:49 GMT -6
Roy,
That is great, take pictures of how your installing it and where to drill for the set screws etc..
That way we can put your HOW-TO-STOP-AXLES-FROM-COMING-OUT in the TRIKE section for others to know how to fix the problem of the axles moveing out and damaging the HUBS and even saving a life.
Alleyoop
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Post by royldoc on Jun 23, 2011 9:09:31 GMT -6
Here is a crude drawing of my idea.  I will drill holes in the center collar for grease channels and add a grease zerk, so bearings can be greased. Roy |
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Post by royldoc on Jun 23, 2011 12:13:10 GMT -6
I'm having a hard time locating the thrust bearings I want. I found some that are close but slightly large on the o.d. and small on i.d.. The bearing is a metric BHTASYM2844 28mm bore x 44mm o.d. x 10.86mm thick. The other is inch BHTASY-112 1.125" bore x 1.750" o.d. x .427" thick. These are ball roller bearings. they are out of stock on both. I might have to use needle roller bearings but don't want to. I will have to bore the tube out to either 1.750" or 44mm and turn the axle down to 1.125" or 28mm depending on which bearing I can get.
Roy
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..BAD TO THE BONE..