Roketa 250-62 Open connectors in harness By rp (Read 2,300 times)

[rp]

Scooter cranks over, but has no spark. replaced CDI, no change.
Double checked wires in circuit and all seem to be ok.
I have 5 connectors at the bottom of my harness near the fuel tank. 1- is for the fuel tank (labeled oil sensor on diagram)
1- is for the side bracket flameout switch
1- Black wire female connector(I think this for the seat
switch which I do not have so I'm going to cap it off
1- Green (ground) male connector I'm going to cap
1- 3-wire male connector(which might be the issue)
The connector has 1-green (ground), 1-purple (which goes to the flameout switch) and 1-Black/yellow which goes to the coil and CDI.
My thought is to ground the ground, connect the purple to the side bracket purple (to complete that circuit) and just cap off the black/yellow.
The user manual that came with the scooter says XY260T-4
The side of the scooter says MC-62.

[Bashan]

Has this bike ever been running, or are you trying to get it running for the first time?

[rp]

I had it out on fathers day and it was running fairly well. Went to start it up the next weekend and nothing. I have 350 miles on it and it has almost always ran rough. My goal is to go over the harness (opening it up) and checking the inner connections.

I have been using the Yamaha YP250 manual as a guide. I replaced the spark plug boot (it had 0-oms resistance) coil was in spec, pick up coil and stator checked out also.
Have new spark plug. According to the wire diagram I should have had 1-3amp, 1-7.5amp and 2-15amp fuses. Scooter had 3-15amp and 1-10amp. I discovered this last weekend.
As others have noted. the QC put into some of these machines is indeed lacking.
But you get what you pay for and know this going in. Thanks for you help

[Bashan]

If it says XY260T-4 on the side that's a VOG 260. Here's a wiring diagram for that scooter, try not to go blind reading it. Some pictures of what you're working on would be helpful. I doubt it's going to be as simple as the wiring but that's a good place to start and then you can take that off of the table. Did you check for spark by holding the plug against a ground and cranking it? Make sure the killswitch (flame out) is set to run.

[rp]

I think I got the harness issue under control. Most of the wires were tapped in other wires so all I had to do was cut the the wire off. The black is a hot wire for the seat switch (which I do not have) so I can just cap it off. The purple wire is attached to the brown wire to complete its circuit. No fuses are blowing and the engine is cranking. Still no spark but I'm moving forward. As for the wireing diagram, the BMS-TBX260 matches up exactly with the XY260T-4 . So if I need parts I get them for the BMS???
Thanks

[sunlproblems]

check the power at the cdi if i even looked at mine it would stop working toke out each wire 1 at a time closed the gap so the blades fit tighter in them had to use my probe to make sure they where all back down where they belonged checking power to them at the same time started rite up now havewhiteish blue spark when i bought it had yellow spark

[Bashan]

I woud say you could order with any of that info. However, just to be safe I'd call or e-mail our banner vendors at the top of the site who sell parts and talk to them just to be sure. They're all great guys who would love to help you out....well...and sell you some parts too I suppose . Not all of them sell parts over the net so you may want to go check their sites out first. Rich

[trailheadmike]

Let me chime in on parts - I never try to save a dollar going to anyone other than BMS Parts for any part that is not generic - a lot of the generic parts do not fit this scooter and you'll waste time and possibly money if they don't take the parts back. Also, I second sunl -- I had all sorts of ongoing intermittent starting and stalling problems on this scooter, and ultimately I cured them all by checking the wires going into the CDI - I had a loose connection on the brown and yellow wire, and that's cured all my ills. Two other routine problems to check on this scooter are for a crack in the manifold holding on the carb, and some have reported a torn diaphragm in the carb.

[rp]

I hooked up 5-jumper wires from the CDI to the connector and nothing. I have a rectifier on order now and if that doesn,t do it, then comes the Magneto and pick up coil.
I have read several times that if your system looses its ground, it will harm the main components and the CDI and rectifier are the only parts we can not test.
And the journey continues.
Thanks all. RP

[rp]

Sunday, July 31, 2011 @ appox 4:00 PM, the spark came on. Scooter started right up. The spark looks purple not the blue it's suppose to be. But hey, its running smooth, at least in the garage. What I Did. The wires coming out of the stator and out of the rectifier look like 14ga. but the harness looks like 16ga. This brought me to the connectors. So I decided to check them out (again). I seperated the connectors, sprayed contact cleaner in both sides but this time I stuck my small screwdriver into the female end forcing the internal clips closer together. I had to bend the male ends a little to get them to line up and go in, but hey, their together again now. AND MC-62 is running. I think I will be replacing all my connectors with the bullet type connector. This type is too sloppy.
We're all in this together, any additional comments for improvement are welcome.
Yes I did read the PDI and thought I followed it pretty close. (I thought)

[rp]

And the journey still continues. But I am getting closer. (I found the blue spark)

I found some corrosion on the main hot wire that goes from the battery to the connector that hooks up to the ignition key. I replaced the complete wire, up-grading the wire from 16-gage to 14-gage. There were also 3 other wires hooked into the main. I believe one is for the kill switch, one for the brake safety and one to an un-used connector. I soldered these into the new 14-gage hot wire. And I Now Have A BLUE SPARK. And an engine that runs like it never has before. (I only have 475 miles on it)

What I've learned. You can run on a white, yellowish or purplish spark, but the bottom line is "you need the BLUE SPARK" . I bought a new CDI and Coil hoping to get it and it ended up being in the wiring. (But now I got spare parts)

If you have a blue spark, and your valves are adjusted correctly, then you can adjust your carb.

New DIY'ers "Don't Get Discouraged"