reulator/rectifier By goodbird (Read 4,258 times)

[goodbird]

using a 8 pole stator--how much voltage should I have
from the yellow wire at the regulator,while the engine
is running?-goodbird

[Bashan]

When the yellow wire is hooked up to the regulator/rectifier (R/R) the multimeter should show 12v AC over the entire wire, or a tad more with RPMs. If it doesn't your R/R is probably toast. Rich

[goodbird]

thanks for your time--regulator will show about 4 vac then drop back to 0. head lights
also go out. where should I shop for a regulator? goodburd

[Bashan]

No matter what they say on some sites, there is no R/R that "fits most Chinese scooters". When you order get some numbers off of your old R/R, have your engine number, and be ready with the type of scooter you have. For instance, my Bashan 150s use an FLP R/R and nothing else works with them. My Motorino 150's R/R is completely different from the Bashans. I buy from our banner people, you can trust them to help and talk to you on the phone. Let's see, of the banners, the guys that sell parts are Scrappy, BPNW, Absolutely Scooters, Rapid Jim, KidNMe, MonsterGY6, and Valley Scooters. Just click on the banner. Let us know what happens. Rich

[tvnacman]

good bird
do you have a flash to pass ?
john

[goodbird]

Is there a way to by pass the air cutoff valve? Diaphram leaks in mine. C G

[goodbird]

not familiar with the flash to pass

[tvnacman]

do you have a hi/lo headlight switch ?

[sprocket]

Rich is right.. you should have about 12+ volts AC on the yellow wire and the white wire and ground. It is important that the plug be disconnected from the R/R or you will get weird readings...

Attachments:

[sprocket]

On engine swaps one of the biggest mistakes is using the wrong flywheel. People will find that an 8 pole stator doesn't work. They then switch it back to the 6 pole. But in 99% of the time they will use the bright shiny new 8 pole flywheel. WRONG.. you must use the OLD flywheel AND the OLD 6 pole stator...on the new engine...

The second problem is.... it still doesn't work!!!!

Attempting to hook -up and use the new 8 pole stator on the old rectifier /regulator probably fried it...

Live and learn...now you need a new 6 pole rectifier regulator.

or.....

put the new 8 pole stator and flywheel back on the engine and buy a new 8 pole matching rectifier/regulator...

Yeah complicated...

[sprocket]

goodbird

Just replace the ACV diaphragm.. they are just a few bucks... otherwise you will get backfire problems...

[tvnacman]

so I played with my crashed scooter today , I was able to get the 11pole 7pin to work . so I went out and did some readings . when I did the installation I cut the harness and the plugs off the new regulator , I installed the 3 yellow wires and the green in one plug (also cut the stator plug) the black white red in another plug . Today I went out for some readings



here goes ;
with everything pluged in
yellow to green about 4vac not reved and just slighty higher reved , with with a steady 14-.5vdc .
when I read from yellow to yellow it was 7-8ac with next to no change reved .


when I unpluged the plug with the yellows and green wire and read with the scooter running ;
yellow to green I got about 16vac at idle and reved up 24-25vac
yellow to yellow i got about 30vac at idle and reved up 45vac or 55vac

I also unpluged the wires going to the cdi and cranked the starter 115vac

so to summerize , the regulator loads down the stator ac output when the dcv is high enough .

I did monitor what happens when I turned on lights (load) the acv increased the dcv did not change much , it seemed to seek level . over 14vdc

my thought was the regulator held back the DCV , that is not correct it loads down the ACV .

John

[tvnacman]

The man said nothing about an engine change , stator , or flywheel . Perhaps it was mentioned in another post .

John

[tvnacman]

as usual the person never seems to answer my question . If he would increase the load while monitoring the ac voltage he would see a rise in ac voltage , all wires connected .

or if he probed the ac wires from the stator and unpluged the regulator .

[Bashan]

OK, I got a PM on this thread so let me see if I can clarify my statement. It looks like somebody took a hatchet to this thread deleting their own posts so it's a little confusing. I don't feel like wading through the activity log right now to see what happened so I'll go on what I see that's still here. The yellow and white AC stator wires plug into the GY6 R/R for an 8 pole stator like this wiring diagram that seems to make sense shows:

But let's just look at this part, the yellow and white feed the AC circuit that runs back and forth around the bridge rectifier you see in the middle. The two triangles way to the left are diodes that regulate the current to AROUND 12v; it'll definately vary some but should be in the ballpark. It's still AC because you have a diode for each direction of the electricity flow:

So if you touch one probe of a multimeter to the white wire or the yellow wire, and the other probe to ground, you'll get AROUND 12v AC. If the wires aren't hooked to the R/R and are tested right from the stator they'll be much higher voltages.

The rectangle in the middle of the AC circuit is the bridge rectifier that is pumping out DC for the battery. It does it like this:

Actually, I just ran into that animation while I was looking for the other diagrams and couldn't resist using it. So on a GY6 with the wires hooked up to the R/R you'll get around 12v AC on the yellow and white wires. Yes, it will probably get some higher than this with a few RPMs and may sink down below 12 on idle; this ain't the space shuttle. If you're not getting those values it's probably your R/R. Rich