Clinician
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Post by smokindawg on Jun 21, 2011 14:02:38 GMT -6
I have a Viva 250 with the CF 244 ( I think, as it has the straight up head with the two valve adjusters on the top.)
I'm having charging problems, as many are. I took all the plastic off and checked all the plugs and wires and sprayed each plug with silicone spray. If I have the head lights unplugged the system shows a charge starting at 12.9-13 volts at an idle. I rev the engine and it comes up as far as 13.4. With the headlights hooked up it drops to about 12.7 and less as it's run. Push the horn and it goes down more.
I checked the three yellow wires coming from the stator as suggested and I'm getting over 60AC volts when I rev the engine. So I know the stator is operating as it should.
I also changed the R/R and no change. The battery won't stay charged when I ride it and the fan runs, as on these warm days.
My question, what should I check next as I have no clue. I did notice that with the lights hooked up, they dim at an idle and brighten up considerably when I rev the engine also. So I'm not sure what is going on with the charging system.
Any help is appreciated.
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Post by Bashan on Jun 21, 2011 15:07:36 GMT -6
Yes, that's the verticle CF Moto clone of the Honda Helix engine. There seems to be some charging issues with that scooter. Here's a link to a thread that has several other links dealing with this problem that hopefully will give you some insight until the 250 guys give you more specifics. Rich
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 21, 2011 19:53:34 GMT -6
Hi, smokindawg. Have you done a PDI on this scoot? Part of the PDI would be to make sure all grounds are on clean metal (sand paint off frame) and it's not a bad idea to run an extra ground from the engine to the frame. Make sure you replace the main fuse with a good automotive type blade fuse and holder. These scoots have a marginal charging system, but there are things that can be done to help out. 1. Change lights over to LEDs. You can replace all lights including the dash lights to LEDs to save a lot of power. LED headlight replacements are not commonly available so no real power saving there unless you just run headlight at a time. 2. Check the amps draw on the cooling fan. It's not unusual for some to use close to 5 amps. A good replacement fan can save you up to 2 amps which is good for another 25 watts. 3. Check all the grounds like I mentioned earlier along with the main fuse upgrade. 4. Chinese R/R's are mainly rubbish because they are no really designed to handle the output necessary to keep the battery charged when everything is running. Here's a vendor that will set one up for your scoot: www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.htmlA little pricey, but well reviewed by our members. 5. If your scoot has no headlight on/off switch (they come on only with the engine running), then you can add about .7 volts to the charging circuit by replacing the blocking diode with an automotive relay.
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Clinician
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Post by smokindawg on Jun 23, 2011 20:17:03 GMT -6
Thanks Bashan and Cruiser. My scooter does have the headlights that come on only when the scooter is running.
There has been work done on this scooter. New hot wire run from battery to solenoid and from it to starter and new ground wire from battery to the R/R mount and from there to the motor.
Does everyone that has the lights on when running have the same problem as I do with the lights dimming and getting bright according to the rpms of the engine?
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Scooter Doc
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2009 Jonway YY250T-2 aka Bali 250cc
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Post by fairweasel2323 on Jun 27, 2011 3:17:09 GMT -6
My scoot charges fine but my lights stay on and they do brighten and dim with the engine. well really just get brighter when I rev it up and then goes back to normal heard it was normal with them running off the engine? I havent had any problems charging I get home from riding and throw it on the trickle charger after riding a few days and never takes long for it to show its charged. But I have never tested her on a volt meter my dealer did when he did my PDI and found my brake was staying on running the battery down I noticed the lights dimming more then. I thought I fixed the brake light from staying on but when I had PDI done to figure out why i kept melting light fuses it was back on again almost been a year and they have stayed off now and havent had any issues (knock on wood) but lights will still get brighter when the motor is revved, then they are while idling.
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Post by smokindawg on Jun 27, 2011 10:08:11 GMT -6
Ok, I installed the relay in place of the Blocking Diode and I'm heading in the right direction.............. It's charging at 13 volts with the fan running and the RPM's around 3-4000. When I hook up the headlights though (3 tail lights on rear still on) I drop to about 12.5 volts.
I think that I need to install LED's and possibly put an off switch on one of the headlights. I could also remove two of the bulbs in the rear for the tail/brake lights, as the large one in the middle should be adequate, as it's pretty bright. That would take some of the load off and possibly put my scooter on the + charging side.
Also, the R/R that people have been recommending may be in the future, but just don't have the money right now.
But as said, I have it going in the right direction finally.
One thing, before adding the relay, the headlights only came on when I started the scooter, now they come on as soon as I turn the key on. All my tests of R/R are good now, just not producing as many volts as I'd like to see it make.
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Post by smokindawg on Jul 7, 2011 20:35:18 GMT -6
I did some more wiring today and ran a bigger hot wire to the relay I replaced my Blocking Diode with. I started the scooter and at an idle with headlights off got 13.6 volts. With the headlights on, 12.8. I'm getting closer. Guess the R/R must be working ok on this one.
I also got the relays and some 10 gauge wire to hook up to the rear lights, the fan, and a couple other items. I then have a few grounds to take care of and a switch to turn off one head light. I'll then replace my bulbs with LED's after that.
Where is the best price on the LED's?
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Yoster aka "Matt"
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Post by yoster on Jul 7, 2011 23:00:50 GMT -6
If you're not getting 14.5 volts at idle with lights off, then your RR isn't keeping up. (assuming there's no other large drain somewhere). Yours is actually acting like mine did before I upgraded to the OMP RR.
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08 roketa special edition 150
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Post by roketafan on Mar 24, 2012 7:45:05 GMT -6
omp rr ?
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 24, 2012 12:01:36 GMT -6
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