150cc Roketa Sicily Electrial Issues By Zouri (Read 6,541 times)

[Zouri]

Mar 25, 2012 15:25:33 GMT -6 sprocket said:

You have the multimeter set on DIODE.. you need to set it to OHMs

Well I also tried it on Ohms and I would still get 000 but never 0L and a beep

[Bashan]

You will only get a tone with the continuity function which I don't see one on your multi. The ohms will do OK though, a 0 or close to it reading means a closed circuit. Scooters vary significantly in their wiring configurations so all of these tests are just a general guide. So did you get zero ohms on the kill to ground with the switch off?

So you tested the switch in the ON position and you're getting o ohms from the red to black wires through the switch? With the switch ON test red to green and black to green and tell me what you get. Also, on the bike side of the harness, not through the switch, test the green to frame and tell me what you get. Rich

[sprocket]

How a mulitmeter works

www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/continuity.html

0L stands for OPEN Loop.. or when a switch is open...or off

Zeros (000) indicate continuity when a switch is closed.

If you press the start button you should get zeros or 001 or something then the switch is working...

[Zouri]

I'll test all of those and get back with you tonight, Rich... unfortunately I have to store the scoot at my brother's house until I can get it running, since he has a garage.

And Sprocket, thanks! That is actually a really helpful guide!

Should I be pressing the start button when I check the variations that Rich listed? Or is having the switch set to on enough?

[Bashan]

Mar 26, 2012 4:56:27 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Should I be pressing the start button when I check the variations that Rich listed? Or is having the switch set to on enough?

OK, this can be a little confusing so I dug up some diagrams. The solenoid is just a relay. That means it's actually two circuits in which a small amount of current activates a magnetic switch that closes a circuit of greater current. Here you can see the open solenoid with the activator coil around the armature:

The black wire that you tested on your ignition switch energizes the green/yellow wire for the brake light. The start button closes a circuit from the green/yellow that energizes the activator coil. This pulls the armature up closing the starter motor circuit. The blue arrows show the electricity from the two seperate circuits. That's why you must pull in the brake handle for the starter to work, the brake light circuit supplies the starter button:

To test the starter button you don't have to turn anything on, you're simply testing to make sure the button and wires are good. Unplug the wire harness running to the solenoid which is almost always a red/yellow and green/yellow combination. Set your multi to continuity or ohms, put a probe on the red/yellow, and ground the other probe. The ground doesn't have to be for the starter button, the frame will do. You should get a tone on continuity or near zero ohms:

To test the power to the solenoid activator circuit you'll test the green/yellow wire. Set your multi to DC volts, put the red probe on the green/yellow, ground the black probe, turn the key ON, pull in the brake handle, and you should read 12v DC:

Here's a link to our tutorial on testing the solenoid and starter. I'm 90% certain that you have a bad ignition switch because your horn and turn signals don't work when it's on. The only thing that baffles me is why some things work when you jump the solenoid. That's why I'd like you to do a little more testing. Rich

[sprocket]

Maybe a bad ground wire on the ignition switch? Jumping the solenoid, completes a ground circuit and the horn and turn signals work? Just a guess...

[Bashan]

That's what I'm thinking. That's why I wanted him to test the ground to frame. I'm also curious about his ignition switch, maybe it's wired a little different. Rich

[Zouri]

Okay,doing all the testing, here are my results:

From Ignition Switch Testing Tutorial:
Red to Black from the Switch (SWITCH ON): 0.2 ohms
Red to Black from the Switch (SWITCH OFF): No change

Green to Black/White from the Switch (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air
Green to Black/White from the Switch (SWITCH OFF: No change

Red to Green (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air

Black to Green (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air

Green (Bike Side) to Frame (Sanded shiny section): 0.4 Ohms


I believe that is all of the testing that you had outlined, I didn't get a chance to do the Solenoid/Starter testing tonight, since I have some homework to work on, I will be able to tomorrow if you think it's necessary.

I cant tell you how much I appreciate you two's help, Id be in trouble right now without you!

[Bashan]

Mar 26, 2012 19:03:00 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Red to Black from the Switch (SWITCH ON): 0.2 ohms
Red to Black from the Switch (SWITCH OFF): No change

If by "no change" you mean you still got 0.2 ohms, that's abnormal, it should be OL with no circuit. That's a bad switch.

Mar 26, 2012 19:03:00 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Green to Black/White from the Switch (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air
Green to Black/White from the Switch (SWITCH OFF: No change

You should have 0 ohms or continuity on green to B/W with the switch off to kill the engine. That's a bad switch.

Mar 26, 2012 19:03:00 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Red to Green (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air
Black to Green (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air

Normal, they're not supposed to do anything

Mar 26, 2012 19:03:00 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Green (Bike Side) to Frame (Sanded shiny section): 0.4 Ohms

That's a good ground: normal

Mar 26, 2012 19:03:00 GMT -6 Zouri said:

I didn't get a chance to do the Solenoid/Starter testing tonight, I will be able to tomorrow if you think it's necessary.

Yes, I'd like to see if the starting circuit is working independent of the ignition switch. Rich

[Zouri]

Okay, Ill do that testing this evening when I get back from work and let you know. It sounds like so far a bad switch, I guess. I know a lot of the regulars of these forums are shop owners, if you know of some that are good I'd love to support the community back, when we determine all of the issues.

Let you know later.
Thanks!

[Zouri]

Okay, so here are the results of the Starter/Solenoid Testing:

Starter Switch Test (Red Probe in Red/Yellow, Black Grounded, Key OFF, Starter Button Pressed) : 0.8 Ohms

Green/Yellow Wire, Key ON, Brake Pulled: 0.00 - 0.02 DCV ()

Solenoid "Click" Test (Starter Wire Off, Key ON, Brake Pulled): No clicking noise.

Red Probe in place of Starter Wire, Key ON, Brake Pulled: 0.00 - 0.02 DCV ()

So, according to this test, I have a bad Solenoid, as well? Or is it a false-positive since I am having other issues in-line?

[Bashan]

Mar 27, 2012 18:05:58 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Starter Switch Test (Red Probe in Red/Yellow, Black Grounded, Key OFF, Starter Button Pressed) : 0.8 Ohms

That's a good starter button...no worries.

Mar 27, 2012 18:05:58 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Green/Yellow Wire, Key ON, Brake Pulled: 0.00 - 0.02 DCV ()

Abnormal, you should have got 12v DC to energize the solenoid. This comes from the lack of electricity from the black wire pointing back to a bad ignition switch.

Mar 27, 2012 18:05:58 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Solenoid "Click" Test (Starter Wire Off, Key ON, Brake Pulled): No clicking noise.

That's because the G/Y wire is lifeless, not because of the solenoid.

Mar 27, 2012 18:05:58 GMT -6 Zouri said:

Red Probe in place of Starter Wire, Key ON, Brake Pulled: 0.00 - 0.02 DCV ()

No G/Y juice=no click=solenoid didn't engage=no 12v DC to starter.

Mar 27, 2012 18:05:58 GMT -6 Zouri said:

So, according to this test, I have a bad Solenoid, as well? Or is it a false-positive since I am having other issues in-line?

Yep, false positive, order a new ignition switch. In this instance I'd go with Greg at Mainely Scooters. Here's the part but make sure the size is correct. Call Greg if you have any doubts. Rich

[Bashan]

I Googled your wiring diagram and got this off of the Roketa site. As usual with Chinese diagrams you can see it's a real eyeball buster. I do see a couple diodes in the solenoid circuit which is unusual. If those are actually there and if one of them is bad, that could be part of your problem. However, when you tested red to black in the OFF position and got .2 ohms that's abnormal on the key switch and it needs to be replaced. So I'd order that and install it and we'll go from there. Rich

[Zouri]

Sounds like a plan, ill probably try and get one ordered today, hopefully that fixes it ... then its time for a paint!

[Zouri]

Okay, so I was talking to Greg briefly, since I had a few concerns about whether or not this would fit, since that one is different that how mine looked, but I wasn't sure if they were interchangeable at all.

So, I guess tonight I am going to get some pictures of mine, so I can line up the mounting brackets.